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odd current and..... oil

Discussion in 'V7/V85/V9 Chat & Tech' started by dale decrescenzo, Oct 21, 2020.

  1. dale decrescenzo

    dale decrescenzo Tuned and Synch'ed

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    when replacing my battery last night, i noticed a fairly significant spark when connecting the second battery terminal, so i grabbed the current meter and placed it in series.
    it looked like 0.8 amp draw at the point i connected the meter, but the value quickly dropped to near 0 amps within a few seconds. and then no spark when re-connecting the new battery. ???

    but as my luck goes, the new battery didn't fit when stuffing it back into the frame. so back in goes the "defective" battery... about 10 minutes later, and again the spark and the odd momentary current. ???

    Is there some form of capacitor getting charged ? do i have an issue ??

    oh, and while working on this i noticed oil on my rear rim ?!?
    I like this bike, but these issues at 3K miles, im starting to think perhaps not my best choice...
     
  2. Wildroamer

    Wildroamer Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    My new V7III has the same leak after almost 3K miles. Rumor has it that they produced a handful that don't leak, but I wonder... Love this bike, but if the leak isn't properly dealt with for next season, she's toast.
    Maybe the reason they put TC and ABS on such a low powered bike is to help deal with the slick surfaces they always ride on?
     
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  3. V700Steve

    V700Steve High Miler GT di Razza Pura

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    On the new smallblocks there is a lot of stuff on all the time, just something to think about. Batteries do go bad even new ones, mishandled batteries dropped out of crate or when delivered from supply to bike shop is an issue.
    Oil on rear rim is the new normal from new smallblocks, that's why you have a warranty & applies to batteries also up to a year.
    Many threads here on the big seal on cover of rear drive leaking, do a search.
     
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  4. dale decrescenzo

    dale decrescenzo Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I understand that there are things electrically active all the time, however i would tend to believe that would be a constant current. not one that seems large and then slowly goes away... but IDK

    I was just discouraged last night, as the battery was supposed to be a direct replacement for the stocker (and it wasn't) and the confusing current issue leaving me wondering if i have deeper issues. then the cake icing... OIL....

    PS. my bike is an 2018, so Luigi say "warranty? shesa no godda warranty !"
     
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  5. HarrierGod

    HarrierGod Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    I’d still get the oil leak documented by the dealer.
    I believe the warranty is two years which starts the day the bike is sold.
    I have also seen many “good faith” warranty repairs done after expiration, especially on well known and documented failures like the rear drive oil leak.
     
  6. dale decrescenzo

    dale decrescenzo Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Hey, ill check into the warranty, but to be honest, im more concerned with the current issue right now.
    but, i seemed to touch on a topic that has derailed my thread....

    i hate when that happens...
     
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  7. buttsoup

    buttsoup Just got it firing!

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    warranty cover electrics too, no?
    Are you sure you weren’t reading your meter wrong?
     
  8. dale decrescenzo

    dale decrescenzo Tuned and Synch'ed

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    ill try to get video of it tonight. ill pull the negative cable, wait 10 minutes, show the nasty spark, then install the amp meter.
    of coarse, since i have made this plan, it won't do it...!
     
  9. Wildroamer

    Wildroamer Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    Pardon my hijack, but do these oil leaks usually end up as ongoing isaues?
     
  10. dale decrescenzo

    dale decrescenzo Tuned and Synch'ed

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    from what im reading... mostly yes.. about every 3K miles.
    I also read that the rear end has very little oil in it, and as a mechanical engineer (of many, many years) i'm a bit worried.
    typically lip seal need a lubricant present on one side to keep the polymer from tearing or wearing out. If the oil level is as low as i have read, Im not convinced that the seals are going to see much. combine that with the surface velocity that the large seal is going to see. I would expect it to have a hard life..

    As i like my bike and want to keep it, im considering a coating on the shafts that the seal works on and perhaps moving to Viton or other material (If not already) or adding a catch bottle and increasing the fluid volume....

    wont know until i rip mine apart this winter....
     
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  11. Wildroamer

    Wildroamer Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    I'll keep an eye out for any further progress on this. Thanks for your informed feedback.
     
  12. Wildroamer

    Wildroamer Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    Sorry 'bout that!
     
  13. Bert Remington

    Bert Remington Tuned and Synch'ed GT Famiglia

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    dale -- I installed the shunt for the Koso BA003190 Volt/Amp meter last night, reconnecting the battery in the dark. When I touched the Ground cable to the battery I was expecting a spark but there wasn't any. I didn't get the connection right the first time so tried again -- no spark. After I finished the connection I started my 2019 V7 III Stone with no problems. The dashboard settings had been lost of course and I expect the ECU trim was also lost. But keepalive power for the dashboard and ECU should not create a big spark as their currents are milliamps. And it takes a few farads for the surge current you observed. So maybe regulator/alternator issue? Or ABS module? Because your spark is repeatable after 10 minutes, I'd pull all the fuses including ABS and put them back one at a time (starting with 30amp main and 20amp ABS) until you get your spark back.

    WRT final drive leaks, MG specifies synthetic for engine and gearbox but doesn't specify synthetic for the final drive so, per many recommendations, I'm using Castrol 85W-140 non-synthetic gear oil. No leaks at 1,700 miles. What are you using?
     
  14. dale decrescenzo

    dale decrescenzo Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Purchased my bike used with 1700 miles on the clock. It was actually the dealers personal ride. All V7's and V9's in his inventory were all that blacked out matt finished (murdered out) look...YUCK ! The first service had been done, and i didn't think to ask because I know jack-all-of-nothin about Guzzi at the time (and still don't)...

    good idea on the fuse check... i went to film my issues last night, but got distracted with other things, and man the daylight is starting to go away quick these evenings...
     
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  15. Dinsdale Piranha

    Dinsdale Piranha Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Mine took 3 goes (in fairly rapid succession), but has been fixed for over 25,000 Km now. I didn't ask Mario which seal was the culprit - I just wanted it fixed.
     
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  16. Dinsdale Piranha

    Dinsdale Piranha Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    A few farads? WooHoo! There gonna be fireworks tonight :tmi:.
     
  17. Wildroamer

    Wildroamer Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    That is encouraging, aside from the multiple efforts. They are such fun bikes, and beautifully crafted, that I hope this doesn't become a real downer on owning it.
     
  18. scottmastrocinque

    scottmastrocinque Scott Mastrocinque GT Famiglia

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    Moto Guzzi is the very last of the hand-built major marque, motorcycles in the world. If you ever get to go to the factory and get lucky to get into the factory floor, you can clearly see this.

    Every Moto Guzzi I have ever owned, has a few little glitches (I call that "character") to work out during the first year of ownership. It's little stuff like this. However, once that gets sorted out, they are pretty damn bullet-proof. Case in point, I'm writing this as I sit next to my 1997 V10 Centauro that is absolutely oil tight, starts on first crank, and runs like a banshee every single time. She's next to my 2008, my 2009, and my 2012 which are exactly the same and also had some character issues to iron out during the first year.

    As to your electrical issue...

    If you really want to test your theory, as I am working blind here without the benefit of an electrical schematic, just disconnect the battery terminals from the + and - and then clamp them together for an hour. This will drain any capacitor if it is in the system someplace, and then when you reconnect your battery as you described, you will be able to replicate your issue.
     
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