• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Oilbar slackened

Joerg Stoeckner

Joerg Stoeckner

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
61
Location
Munich, Germany
Dudes,

now for the second time my oilbar vibrated loose while driving and a pretty decent amount of oil spilled out before I realized the issue and could stop. This is not only brutally annoying but also dran pestilent.
Engine, tyres and even the road were splattered and polluted with oil !
Did you ever come across this flaw and if so any remedy for it?

Throughts, ideas?

THX a lot

Greetings from Germany
 
Not sure what you mean by "oilbar", but if you're referring what we in the US call a dipstick, yes, it's a problem that many of us, including myself, have had. My solution is to make sure that the O-ring is properly seated and the cap is tightened well (I use a channel-lock type pliers with a light touch). Others have substituted a third-party temperature gauge/dipstick combo, which doesn't seem to have this problem.
 
Indeed I meant the dipstick, Sorry for my inept English...
Channel locking it is the very first measure I gonna apply going forward. Beyond that I just spotted this helpful trick in Wildguzzi under

wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=47646.0

to drill a hole to feed a loop through and lock it to the frame. Quick and really dirly but should help the situation so far

thx for replies!
 
Nice bid and can certainly help to fasten the dipstick better, that said I dont see how it could entirely preclude the dipstick from getting loose, though.
Locking it with any kind of wire is unevitable anyway, I find.

thx for sharing
 
Hey just be careful with the channel locker, I managed to over tighten and break my dipstick without too much pressure.
 
The only time mine comes off is when the engine is warm and I am checking the oil. It is, in my findings, much easier to get it off and then re-tightened with the added heat.
 
Nice find Joe. You guys interested in one in aluminum? I can likely do them for the same pricing.
 
GT-Rx® said:
Nice find Joe. You guys interested in one in aluminum? I can likely do them for the same pricing.
Click to expand...

No, but let me know when you come up with a way of removing a Norge dipstick without damaging your fingers! :mad:
 
ITSec said:
No, but let me know when you come up with a way of removing a Norge dipstick without damaging your fingers! :mad:
Click to expand...
Wrong thread, but MG Cycle used to offer the long extension version. Try them.
 
Bobby said:
Hey just be careful with the channel locker, I managed to over tighten and break my dipstick without too much pressure.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the late warning, already chip one tooth off the damn thing with the channel locks. I'm going to order that little red thing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top