Trout
GT Reference
2013 Griso has been sitting outside covered up for about 6 months with a broken exhaust stud.
Finally got the time to fix the stud.
Bike started up & idled fine.
Rode about 30 miles & low fuel light came on so I filled up.
Rode about 20 miles the bike started surging, random slight backfire thru exhaust.
Let off throttle it smoothed out, increase throttle stumbled.
Stopped at a gas station, pulled the injectors put in two empty, clean, dry water bottles.
Both injectors appeared to be spraying equal amounts & could not see any water.
On the ride home it ran fine for about 15 miles then repeated the same problem.
Lower RPM's (under 3000) it would run "OK" but give it any gas & it would die.
If I pulled over shut the bike off & restarted it would run normal for 10 to 20 miles.
One time the engine cut off just like the key was turned off.
While coasting to a stop I reached up & turned the key off.
Don't know why but I turned the key back on.
I was still in gear letting it coast.
The tach needled did it's sweep thing & the bike took off like a shot.
Ran fine for about 15 miles then started the surge thing.
Turned key off & back on & it ran fine for about 15 miles.
When it first did it I was thinking a fuel issue but then the key thing made me think it was electrical.
Also on two occasions just as I came to a stop the oil pressure light flickered on & off.
Oil level was fine & the oil only had about 2000 miles on it.
When I got home I pulled the fuel tank.
There was some water in the fuel.
There was a lot of corrosion on the metal & some of it had been sucked onto the mesh screen filter on the fuel pump so I cleaned it & tooth brushed the metal clean.
I wanted to change the fuel filter but could not find the one I knew I had, also I did not have any clamps for that size hose.
I also made sure the vent lines were open. Mud daubers love to fill up holes here in Florida.
I swapped the relays just to see if that made a difference.
The Large relay under the tail selection which is for the ECU had a spot on it that looked like it had gotten hot. I swapped it out.
Even tho the oil only had about 2000 miles on it I changed it & the filter.
The bike has a PC-V with auto tune & on the auto tune module I found one yellow wire that was off & two more that were loose. Fixed that.
Also checked alternator out put & it is normal.
Put the bike back together put in 2 gallons of fresh fuel & test rode it.
Not fixed but it is acting different.
I didn't ride very far but I did run it up to 6000 rpm when I first started out.
Held steady at 4500 for a few miles then went up to 5000 for a few more then when I tried for 6000 she died.
I put my extra key in the gas cap so I could open it if the problem occurred.
Opening the fuel cap did not help.
When I got home I found the fuel filter I couldn't find earlier.
Decided to put it on & use Zip Ties instead of clamps.
Could not get fuel line disconnected from tank even tho I had it off earlier.
By that time the 100 degree heat had taken its toll and I was done for the day.
I put the tank back on & called it a day.
Any input is welcome.
My Thoughts:
Whatever it is affects both cylinders
It's not a vent problem.
Turning the key off & on AND having the oil pressure light flicker had me thinking it was an electrical issue. Something getting hot & breaking a connection or tripping a relay???? Bad oil pressure switch killing the engine?
After swapping relays & unplugging every connector I could find, checking all grounds etc. I'm not sure.
QUESTIONS:
Can I use zip ties instead of clamps on the fuel filter?
To get the fuel line off the tank do I pull back on the connector or push forward?
LOL: I have had the tank off before.
I was so hot & tired my brain was melting & now I can't remember.
( I've had a number of strokes & it affects memory)
With all the corrosion on the metal & on the fuel pump screen could the fuel pump be damaged in such a way that it would work intermittently? That has not been my experience with fuel pumps.
Finally got the time to fix the stud.
Bike started up & idled fine.
Rode about 30 miles & low fuel light came on so I filled up.
Rode about 20 miles the bike started surging, random slight backfire thru exhaust.
Let off throttle it smoothed out, increase throttle stumbled.
Stopped at a gas station, pulled the injectors put in two empty, clean, dry water bottles.
Both injectors appeared to be spraying equal amounts & could not see any water.
On the ride home it ran fine for about 15 miles then repeated the same problem.
Lower RPM's (under 3000) it would run "OK" but give it any gas & it would die.
If I pulled over shut the bike off & restarted it would run normal for 10 to 20 miles.
One time the engine cut off just like the key was turned off.
While coasting to a stop I reached up & turned the key off.
Don't know why but I turned the key back on.
I was still in gear letting it coast.
The tach needled did it's sweep thing & the bike took off like a shot.
Ran fine for about 15 miles then started the surge thing.
Turned key off & back on & it ran fine for about 15 miles.
When it first did it I was thinking a fuel issue but then the key thing made me think it was electrical.
Also on two occasions just as I came to a stop the oil pressure light flickered on & off.
Oil level was fine & the oil only had about 2000 miles on it.
When I got home I pulled the fuel tank.
There was some water in the fuel.
There was a lot of corrosion on the metal & some of it had been sucked onto the mesh screen filter on the fuel pump so I cleaned it & tooth brushed the metal clean.
I wanted to change the fuel filter but could not find the one I knew I had, also I did not have any clamps for that size hose.
I also made sure the vent lines were open. Mud daubers love to fill up holes here in Florida.
I swapped the relays just to see if that made a difference.
The Large relay under the tail selection which is for the ECU had a spot on it that looked like it had gotten hot. I swapped it out.
Even tho the oil only had about 2000 miles on it I changed it & the filter.
The bike has a PC-V with auto tune & on the auto tune module I found one yellow wire that was off & two more that were loose. Fixed that.
Also checked alternator out put & it is normal.
Put the bike back together put in 2 gallons of fresh fuel & test rode it.
Not fixed but it is acting different.
I didn't ride very far but I did run it up to 6000 rpm when I first started out.
Held steady at 4500 for a few miles then went up to 5000 for a few more then when I tried for 6000 she died.
I put my extra key in the gas cap so I could open it if the problem occurred.
Opening the fuel cap did not help.
When I got home I found the fuel filter I couldn't find earlier.
Decided to put it on & use Zip Ties instead of clamps.
Could not get fuel line disconnected from tank even tho I had it off earlier.
By that time the 100 degree heat had taken its toll and I was done for the day.
I put the tank back on & called it a day.
Any input is welcome.
My Thoughts:
Whatever it is affects both cylinders
It's not a vent problem.
Turning the key off & on AND having the oil pressure light flicker had me thinking it was an electrical issue. Something getting hot & breaking a connection or tripping a relay???? Bad oil pressure switch killing the engine?
After swapping relays & unplugging every connector I could find, checking all grounds etc. I'm not sure.
QUESTIONS:
Can I use zip ties instead of clamps on the fuel filter?
To get the fuel line off the tank do I pull back on the connector or push forward?
LOL: I have had the tank off before.
I was so hot & tired my brain was melting & now I can't remember.
( I've had a number of strokes & it affects memory)
With all the corrosion on the metal & on the fuel pump screen could the fuel pump be damaged in such a way that it would work intermittently? That has not been my experience with fuel pumps.
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