• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Power Commander User Guide and Install info

kiwi dave said:
All connections appear fine, the red LED is alight (with an occasional flicker which I assume shows it's active), so I think my next move might be to whip out the wideband lambda sensor and see whether it coked up. Any suggestions on how to clean it will be greatly appreciated.

No idea about cleaning the sensor. I've heard that they're delicate and easy to bugger up. I would also suggest you have the PC-V software active and connected while the bike is running. Check the 'Autotune' active indicator in the lower right to confirm that the PC-V is actually receiving data from the Autotune.

Mark
 
beetle said:
I would also suggest you have the PC-V software active and connected while the bike is running. Check the 'Autotune' active indicator in the lower right to confirm that the PC-V is actually receiving data from the Autotune.

Mark

I couldn't find the AutoTune indicator, so I updated the PC-V software. I was running the version that came with my PC-V. Alas, the AutoTune indicator is not illuminated. Looks like I might have a shagged AutoTune.

I'll double check the connectors, especially to the lambda sensor, and if all look in order, I will remove the sensor until I can get a replacement AutoTune. The bike is running great with my "zero" map installed, I can always revert to any of my saved maps, or if I'm brave enough start tweaking the PC-V directly should I feel something is not quite right.

Thanks again for your help.
 
kiwi dave said:
I couldn't find the AutoTune indicator, so I updated the PC-V software. I was running the version that came with my PC-V. Alas, the AutoTune indicator is not illuminated. Looks like I might have a shagged AutoTune.

I'll double check the connectors, especially to the lambda sensor, and if all look in order, I will remove the sensor until I can get a replacement AutoTune. The bike is running great with my "zero" map installed, I can always revert to any of my saved maps, or if I'm brave enough start tweaking the PC-V directly should I feel something is not quite right.

Thanks again for your help.


No problem. I agree, check the CAN bus wiring between the Autotune and the PC-V and the wiring from the sensor to the Autotune. Plus check you have a good +12V and GND to the Autotune.
 
That's exactly what I done. At the same time, I shortened the cable from the lambda sensor to the AutoTune, and checked all other connectors. Plus, I found a use for the cut yellow wire that was once feeding the starter relay -it's now powering the AutoTune. And, hey presto, the AutoTune indicator is now illuminating after the 60 second preset delay. Also, I see a change in trim value being produced on a couple of cells.

I need to go for another test ride, but weather forecast not looking that wonderful. What I still can't understand is how the AutoTune managed to produce unhealthy results in the first place. I'm contemplating turning off the AutoTune except for planned excursions, so that I keep a good stable map on the PC-V.
 
kiwi dave said:
What I still can't understand is how the AutoTune managed to produce unhealthy results in the first place. I'm contemplating turning off the AutoTune except for planned excursions, so that I keep a good stable map on the PC-V.


Only speculating, but I would expect freaky data can be produced with a bad/intermittent supply or ground due to transient noise created by the connect/disconnect of the 12V or GND. Although, the CAN bus is supposed to work in noisy environments like this without issue. Hmmm.
 
Kiwi_dave,

I can see you've checked the connections but this may be worth something: I had intermittent operation of the AutoTune when it would simply stop working just like you describe, and in my case it was the connector that plugs in from AutoTune into the PCV. It is supposed to click in but really did not and had to be in really tight to be working stable. I bent the tab so it would lock better but in addition to that zip-tied it tight to the AT unit and had no outage since. Could be worth a shot...

As far as updating the software: good to have the latest version of the desktop but be sure not to upgrade the firmware in the PCV, even though there are several newer versions on the Dynojet website and the temptation is there...

AutoTune gets completely bogus readings in certain areas, especially really small throttle openings under load; as such it can only be relied upon to build a map from scratch if you know which cells you can trust and which to leave the AT correction off... This also means there will still be areas on the grid where we'll still have no idea how to correct for optimal mixture without dyno work and appropriate experience. This is something that I personally did not fully understand when I made my purchase; was naively hoping for higher degree of plain plug'n'play experience :)

This said, you could ask instructions from Todd to go from the baseline he provided to you originally to arrive to an even closer match. Essentially you'd be simulating a dyno run and pulling the map for him to modify for several iterations... In other words, still no replacement for a proper dyno run.
 
So here’s my question ? You get map, Accept trims then send map. Well I’ve got map but the how do you accept the trims, is there an option to select or just viewing then sending map is all that is required.
Do NOT Accept Trims, please just send me the map via email to have a look and tweak for you. I have this clearly stated as well in the Notes section of the map.
 
Back
Top