• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Plastic inlet manifolds

T3 ANDY

Just got it firing!
Joined
Feb 24, 2023
Messages
4
Location
NEW ZEALAND
One of the alloy manifolds on the t3 had cracked. So i thought a set of these one piece plastic manifolds should be a good move,
As the alloy ones seemed hard to get. I needed to drill out the holes to 8mm to fit the studs. The problem is that if you drill out to 8mm
there is no metal insert left and that is a huge problem. I made some washers to help distribute the load but this was not enough to stop
the plastic from slowly deforming. You just could not tighten the nuts as each time you came back from a ride they were loose. In the end
the whole manifold had gone out of round. You would think a inlet manifold should be made of better material. I will now make some out
of solid alloy.
 
Do you think inserting helicoils into the head and using the smaller diameter bolts (not 8mm) would work?
Or do you think the plastic manifold just is not good?
Thanks.
 
Last edited:
You can easily use the plastic ones. You just need to obtain some hobby grade brass tubing, and cut screw sleeves from this tubing, long enough that the clamping holding force of the retaining screw, is being borne by the brass tubing and not the plastic. Problem solved. 👍

IMG 3126
 
One of the alloy manifolds on the t3 had cracked. So i thought a set of these one piece plastic manifolds should be a good move,
As the alloy ones seemed hard to get. I needed to drill out the holes to 8mm to fit the studs. The problem is that if you drill out to 8mm
there is no metal insert left and that is a huge problem. I made some washers to help distribute the load but this was not enough to stop
the plastic from slowly deforming. You just could not tighten the nuts as each time you came back from a ride they were loose. In the end
the whole manifold had gone out of round. You would think a inlet manifold should be made of better material. I will now make some out
of solid alloy.
You can easily use the plastic ones. You just need to obtain some hobby grade brass tubing, and cut screw sleeves from this tubing, long enough that the clamping holding force of the retaining screw, is being borne by the brass tubing and not the plastic. Problem solved. 👍

View attachment 33234
 
Good Luck!

I’m fairly confident that once you transfer the load to the brass sleeve, the plastic will retain its shape no worries. 🤞👍
 
Back
Top