All I will say is follow the instruction from Mike Haven that I gave you the link for. No one ever said to set the TPS with the engine running, only with the key on is necessary.
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Poor running Q
- Thread starter JayDeeca
- Start date
John, with all due respect, I did follow Mike Haven's article. I set the TPS to 1.4 Actually 1.35, 1.5 and other points) with ignition and start switches on, but not running. When that resulted in poor running, I attempted other methods, none of which were fruitful. At this point I am going to try to synch the balance a bit better, and then reset the TPS to 1.4.
While I did the initial TPS setting on a non-running engine as you suggested, I am confused with Mike Haven's wording. The last thing he says in the MPH article is " A note on TPS.....The specs provided are intended to be used on a bike that has all throttle linkage in place, at idle. Live running measurement.". So why do we set it on a non-running engine? What am I missing?
Thanks
JD
While I did the initial TPS setting on a non-running engine as you suggested, I am confused with Mike Haven's wording. The last thing he says in the MPH article is " A note on TPS.....The specs provided are intended to be used on a bike that has all throttle linkage in place, at idle. Live running measurement.". So why do we set it on a non-running engine? What am I missing?
Thanks
JD
The goal is to get everything set to specification. Once you have all the parameters set to specification and the bike still "runs like crap" it is then possible you have a defective ECU. Don't feel alone in this, I have run across three bikes where the ECU required replacement.
As far as setting the TPS with the bike running, on most machines this just isn't practical. I believe Mike's reference is for the bike to be in a runnable configuration, not with the engine actually running.
As far as setting the TPS with the bike running, on most machines this just isn't practical. I believe Mike's reference is for the bike to be in a runnable configuration, not with the engine actually running.
JD, I want you to try something a little different.
On both carby and EFI Guzzi's I have owned, the clamps on the rubber hose between inlet manifold & throttle body, have come loose.
Don't over tighten them, but you will be amazed at how many turns of the screws you will do before it firms up. Then synch your throttle bodies. This needs to be checked every 20,000km.
On both carby and EFI Guzzi's I have owned, the clamps on the rubber hose between inlet manifold & throttle body, have come loose.
Don't over tighten them, but you will be amazed at how many turns of the screws you will do before it firms up. Then synch your throttle bodies. This needs to be checked every 20,000km.
ghezzi said:
I did not have time today to work much on the bike, but I did take a moment to check that the intake hoses were tight. It would have been a cheap fix, but unfortunately that did not seem to be the problem. But thanks for the advice anyway, it never hurts to check the simplest things first before throwing congealed sweat (cash) at the bike. I appreciate any and all suggestions......
JD
I reset the TPS to 1.4 today, and tried to balance the TB, with no success. The bike is now running on only the right cylinder, and I was unable to correct that issue, thus obviously was unable to balance things.
The right plug is quite sooty, but the left is black and wet. Pulling the plug had no effect while running. New plugs, or old plugs made no difference.
The rattle in the ECU has been bothering me, so today I did the unforgivable and opened the ECU can. Inside I found that one component had broken away from the circuit board, a large red, nickel sized, lozenge shaped disc. I don't know what it is for, but I can see why it broke away, as it was soldered in such that it rode against the lid, under tension. The manufacturer did a shoddy job of installation. There is a remote possibility I may be able to repair it. But I still do not know if this is pertinent to the bikes running issues, or if it is just something else that needs replacement/repair. Anyone want to take a stab at guessing what this component is? I took pics, but not sure how to put them here.
JD
The right plug is quite sooty, but the left is black and wet. Pulling the plug had no effect while running. New plugs, or old plugs made no difference.
The rattle in the ECU has been bothering me, so today I did the unforgivable and opened the ECU can. Inside I found that one component had broken away from the circuit board, a large red, nickel sized, lozenge shaped disc. I don't know what it is for, but I can see why it broke away, as it was soldered in such that it rode against the lid, under tension. The manufacturer did a shoddy job of installation. There is a remote possibility I may be able to repair it. But I still do not know if this is pertinent to the bikes running issues, or if it is just something else that needs replacement/repair. Anyone want to take a stab at guessing what this component is? I took pics, but not sure how to put them here.
JD
That capacitor is the problem. How can you expect the bike to run properly with a defective ECU? Replace it.
motoguzznix
Just got it firing!
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2009
- Messages
- 22
Hello JD
TPS adjustment should be done with the engine off and ignition on.
First uncrew the idle adjustment screw cimpletely (works via a cable) - the throttles get slightly stuck when closed that far. Now adjust 150 - 170. mv by rotating the TPS. When done, fix the screws and don`'t touch them again. This must be done with a Voltmeter, the ECU cannot send out these low values as degrees of throttle.
Then you can connect your tool and adjust 1,4° of throttle opening with the cable adjuster.
With this setup, the engine should start and run.
When the engine is synched correctly, adjust the CO at idle speed. For this you need a CO tester with a probe. Best connect it to the M10x1 mm screw on botttom of the headers. 3,5 % is perfect. When you have a Q1000, there is an adjustment screw next to the big connector. When never touched, it is covered with a plastic plug. Remove this to get access to the screw.
And before you do this, remove the tail plastic and unscrew the 4 srews of the ECU cover and look inside what is loose.
When the Co setting is done, you may hav to correct the idle speed. Set it to 1100 according the VDSTS tool. The 1.4° throttle opening are +- 0,3° tolerance.
TPS adjustment should be done with the engine off and ignition on.
First uncrew the idle adjustment screw cimpletely (works via a cable) - the throttles get slightly stuck when closed that far. Now adjust 150 - 170. mv by rotating the TPS. When done, fix the screws and don`'t touch them again. This must be done with a Voltmeter, the ECU cannot send out these low values as degrees of throttle.
Then you can connect your tool and adjust 1,4° of throttle opening with the cable adjuster.
With this setup, the engine should start and run.
When the engine is synched correctly, adjust the CO at idle speed. For this you need a CO tester with a probe. Best connect it to the M10x1 mm screw on botttom of the headers. 3,5 % is perfect. When you have a Q1000, there is an adjustment screw next to the big connector. When never touched, it is covered with a plastic plug. Remove this to get access to the screw.
And before you do this, remove the tail plastic and unscrew the 4 srews of the ECU cover and look inside what is loose.
When the Co setting is done, you may hav to correct the idle speed. Set it to 1100 according the VDSTS tool. The 1.4° throttle opening are +- 0,3° tolerance.
I appear to have finally resolved the bad running issues with this bike. I have fought with backfiring on deceleration, popping and spitting at lower rpm, and very rough running between 2000 and 3000rpm, particularly around 2800. The bike ran great above 3000rpm, but i like to travel around 30mph or so on the dirt roads in second gear.
First I should mention that a new ECU and a new TPS made no difference. A final balancing of the chokes a couple of weeks ago helped, but the bike was still intractable at lower rpm. I found motoguzznix's comments above very helpful in setting a baseline. I followed his instructions except for the CO testing, as I do not have that available to me.
I discovered that the regulator had been replaced at some point with a Shindenger Honda ATV regulator at some point, and the bike was charging way too high, I replaced the regulator with an OEM unit. Whether that helped or not i do not know, as at the same time I took Kiwi Roy's advice (Wildgoosechase) and removed, disassembled, cleaned up and reassembled the ignition switch. I believe that that did it. Roy told me that he made quite a few Guzzis with the same symptoms as mine run better by cleaning that switch. I can't attest to the others, but it made a world of difference on my Quota. It runs so much better. Dirt roods at 20-30mph and rpm from 1500 to 3000 are no problem now. This is the way this bike was meant to run!!! So thanks Roy, if you are on this forum!!!
JD
First I should mention that a new ECU and a new TPS made no difference. A final balancing of the chokes a couple of weeks ago helped, but the bike was still intractable at lower rpm. I found motoguzznix's comments above very helpful in setting a baseline. I followed his instructions except for the CO testing, as I do not have that available to me.
I discovered that the regulator had been replaced at some point with a Shindenger Honda ATV regulator at some point, and the bike was charging way too high, I replaced the regulator with an OEM unit. Whether that helped or not i do not know, as at the same time I took Kiwi Roy's advice (Wildgoosechase) and removed, disassembled, cleaned up and reassembled the ignition switch. I believe that that did it. Roy told me that he made quite a few Guzzis with the same symptoms as mine run better by cleaning that switch. I can't attest to the others, but it made a world of difference on my Quota. It runs so much better. Dirt roods at 20-30mph and rpm from 1500 to 3000 are no problem now. This is the way this bike was meant to run!!! So thanks Roy, if you are on this forum!!!
JD