Fiat500
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Just had the preload adjuster for the rear shock of my 1200 Sport start to leak around the top of the spring.
Anyone had one of these little buggers apart ?
Anyone had one of these little buggers apart ?
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PRELOAD FAILURE.
- Thread starter Fiat500
- Start date
P
PP-1753
Guest
If you have the tools you can disassemble quite easily, though you might need some keeper pads in a vise should you choose to put it in one. Also a spring compressor will be required.
However, I suspect it's not the preload adjuster, as it just compresses the spring. Maybe a seal gone west. Unless you are prepared to take the time, it might be easier to take it to a suspension specialist who can do the work; either that or buy a new unit or even a pre-loved unit -plenty are upgrading their GRiSO/Stelvio rear shock...
Just food for thought.
However, I suspect it's not the preload adjuster, as it just compresses the spring. Maybe a seal gone west. Unless you are prepared to take the time, it might be easier to take it to a suspension specialist who can do the work; either that or buy a new unit or even a pre-loved unit -plenty are upgrading their GRiSO/Stelvio rear shock...
Just food for thought.
Fiat500
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Some good thoughts there Tony but as an Engineer I will have to have a play with it, wont I ?
I think you will find the preload adjuster is hydraulic as now that the oil has leaked out the adjuster knob just spins in freely.
I noticed a year back that the retaining wire that holds the adjuster to the shock had not been seated properly.
After compressing the spring and refitting the wire I was looking over the shock and saw a small screw in the side of the adjuster and of course you must take it out to see what its for.
Anyway long story short out came hydraulic oil. Luckily I had it back off otherwise I would have shot oil across the room.
Just hoping it is only a seal and I can get a replacement.
Will post what I find.
I think you will find the preload adjuster is hydraulic as now that the oil has leaked out the adjuster knob just spins in freely.
I noticed a year back that the retaining wire that holds the adjuster to the shock had not been seated properly.
After compressing the spring and refitting the wire I was looking over the shock and saw a small screw in the side of the adjuster and of course you must take it out to see what its for.
Anyway long story short out came hydraulic oil. Luckily I had it back off otherwise I would have shot oil across the room.
Just hoping it is only a seal and I can get a replacement.
Will post what I find.
P
PP-1753
Guest
It's a mechanical preload on my Sport. But, you may have a different setup to me - mine is over 7 years old now. Understand your predilection to repairing it yourself - I am bent that way myself. However, I don't always have the time, nor the inclination. If I don't feel benevolent towards the bike, I won't touch it now - instead I will take it (or the piece) to an expert as it cuts out me wasting time on something I don't necessarily NEED to do.
Let us know how you go.
Let us know how you go.
My Matris R hydraulic adjuster was also leaking from same said screw. 3mm I.D. copper washers bit hard to come by.
Bought a Wurth product, hydraulic oil sealer, about AUD$50. No more leaks. Donated it to my suspension guru.
Bought a Wurth product, hydraulic oil sealer, about AUD$50. No more leaks. Donated it to my suspension guru.
Fiat500
Cruisin' Guzzisti
All fixed and if anyone is interested here is a rundown of repair.
Wind preload fully in, remove screw that has been Loctited (Good luck with that) then very carefully remove plastic knob while catching clicker ball that sits at about the 11 o'clock postion. Support bike and rear wheel, shock will come out the bottom with a bit of twisting and turning. Remove clicker ball spring before it is lost.
Wind off preload. Loosen small grub screw in adjuster that is bearing on shock, compress spring so adjuster can be move down and remove wire clip. remove adjuster from shock noting thin washer between piston and spring.
You can now see that if the leak is at the screw end then it is not really repairable as the housing has been swaged to hold the nut and the pump piston cannot be removed.
With no pressure in the housing remove filler screw and with preload wound right off very carefully put a small rod into filler hole and push pump piston back to the start of its travel.
Knock the inner stationary sleeve out of hosing, carefully remove o rings from housing and inside of piston. I fitted an internal circlip to o ring groove of piston so I then had something to press on to get it out. Remove outer piston o ring from housing.
This was the o ring that had blown in mine.
Now what the hell was Sachs thinking here? O,D of piston is 68 mm and stationary sleeve is 55.70 mm. So if you can find them which I could not in NZ then you would be looking for a 68 or 69 x 2.70 mm and two 56 or 57 x 2.70 mm o rings.
I ended up having to use a Imperial 148 o ring (69.85 x 2.62) for the outside and reused the two inner. Possible a 140 (57.15 x 2.62) would work there if needed.
Fit o rings, lube and fit stationary sleeve then lube and with taper end first press piston fully home.
Using 5W fork or other light oil fill nearly to the bottom of filler hole thread, refit screw.
Wind the adjuster in to the end of its travel and measure that the piston comes out a maximum of 12 mm. Wind off and push piston back home then add or remove oil to adjust.
Assemble shock, wind preload to full and check for leaks and also recheck piston travel in no more than 12 mm.
And remember always back off preload if removing filler screw !
Wind preload fully in, remove screw that has been Loctited (Good luck with that) then very carefully remove plastic knob while catching clicker ball that sits at about the 11 o'clock postion. Support bike and rear wheel, shock will come out the bottom with a bit of twisting and turning. Remove clicker ball spring before it is lost.
Wind off preload. Loosen small grub screw in adjuster that is bearing on shock, compress spring so adjuster can be move down and remove wire clip. remove adjuster from shock noting thin washer between piston and spring.
You can now see that if the leak is at the screw end then it is not really repairable as the housing has been swaged to hold the nut and the pump piston cannot be removed.
With no pressure in the housing remove filler screw and with preload wound right off very carefully put a small rod into filler hole and push pump piston back to the start of its travel.
Knock the inner stationary sleeve out of hosing, carefully remove o rings from housing and inside of piston. I fitted an internal circlip to o ring groove of piston so I then had something to press on to get it out. Remove outer piston o ring from housing.
This was the o ring that had blown in mine.
Now what the hell was Sachs thinking here? O,D of piston is 68 mm and stationary sleeve is 55.70 mm. So if you can find them which I could not in NZ then you would be looking for a 68 or 69 x 2.70 mm and two 56 or 57 x 2.70 mm o rings.
I ended up having to use a Imperial 148 o ring (69.85 x 2.62) for the outside and reused the two inner. Possible a 140 (57.15 x 2.62) would work there if needed.
Fit o rings, lube and fit stationary sleeve then lube and with taper end first press piston fully home.
Using 5W fork or other light oil fill nearly to the bottom of filler hole thread, refit screw.
Wind the adjuster in to the end of its travel and measure that the piston comes out a maximum of 12 mm. Wind off and push piston back home then add or remove oil to adjust.
Assemble shock, wind preload to full and check for leaks and also recheck piston travel in no more than 12 mm.
And remember always back off preload if removing filler screw !