• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Racer with riser bars

Dropping the forks is Very simple - I did them one at a time to change the oil when I did the Matris kit.

If you have a way to support and control the height of the front it’s easy ?
You would just be dropping the enough to slide the “clip on’s” off.
Thanks
 
It looks like the LSL Speedbar is no longer available at the store. What is an equivalent? By equivalent I mean no cable or wiring harness changes are needed.
 
I am ok with the clutch cable change. I just want to not have it as high as the Stone bars if possible. I want to keep as much of the cafe look as possible but make 3+ hour rides more comfortable.
 
I see conflicting strategies for removing the clip-ons. Which is easier? Remove triple tree plate or loosen the shock and slide down? If the triple tree plate is simply removing the bolts and pulling the plate off without any special support for the bike that would be preferred since this is a driveway job.
 
Making progress. Took the triple clamp off and removed the clip-ons. When I put the tree clamp back on I noticed the left fork had moved down a bit. I confirmed (possibly) that this is what moved because I can see the bellows has the exact spacing off the lower clamp. I verified with recent pictures that the space between the bellows and lower clamp was not there previously. So I will have to shift it back up. Little concerned that the lower clamp was loose enough for it to move down as I pressed the top tree clamp back on. Any tips or ways to verify I haven't messed up any factory alignment?
Best way to remove the left handle grip?
The front brake line seems too short. I imagine there is a better path for it. Any way to share the path most commonly used for the brake line with this modification?
Bar end sliders have the mountain portion inside the bar. Not sure how to remove those without running a screw in which I imagine expands it. Just run a screw in, vise grip the screw head and pull?
Thanks- Adam
 
Back
Top