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Rear brake abs? & wont start annymore

ReneBastiaanssen

Just got it firing!
Joined
Aug 13, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Netherlands
Problem with my Stelvio ntx 2012!

1: rear brake felt spongy. Fluid ok, no air etc. But I hear a shhh underneath the tank (locantion abs unit) when pushing the brake. Have to push him really down under before he brakes but even then only marginal).
Everything else was ok.
2: But today after a ride of 2hrs after restarting after fuelling, the abs light came and stayed on. Then after some time the power of the engine dropped very much. Once home and switching off, the engine will not start at all! Just hear a click, and all lights go out. Just like a shortcircuit. I also hear some rattling when switching off the contact. Didn't hear that before. Like a stepper motor. Not the fuelpump sound.
Checked errors on the service menu of the display, but there was no error logged.
Any ideas what is going on here?
 
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First question, What is the condition of the battery? Have it load tested. May have surface voltage, but not enough amps to do anything.
 
The battery is as good as new. But... Just charged it, and now the motor starts. Will check the big altenator fuse tomorrow...
But then, why blown? I've already added smaller fuses for the foglights and didn't turn them on. . Still suspect something around the abs unit..
 
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HMmmm
30A fuse broken. Should be (only) for the high head lights. One of the high head lights was broken (could that event trip a 30A fuse?)
And, according the electric schema this might not effect the charging of the battery. But mine does! That happend once before when my foglights did not have a fuse of their own. Looks like the wirering of the fuses is messed up....?
Double checked it: no 30A fuse, no charge. No 40A fuse, no charge.
 
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Are these the two fuses located on their own, just behind the Battery?
They might have been mis-fitted at some point, 30 where the 40 goes, and vice-versa.
Not that that explains why you're getting no charging if either one is removed though.
 
Yesterday measuring and trying.
-remove 40A alternator fuse fuse (beneath the saddle): no charge of the battery
-remove 30A headlight fuse (behind the side cap): no charge of the battery

So the 40A fuse is understandable. But the 30A headlight fuse impacting charging is strange.

(charging is measured by monitoring the voltage on the battery when the motor runs. running higher rpm's the voltage goes up. When not charging, you will see no rising of the voltage)

Looks like the - terminal of the alternator is connected via a relay somewhere (the + terminal is connected via the 40A fuse directly to the battery).
Or it has an internal enable/disable switch, controlled via one of the other connections. Will study the schema in more detail, and found a lot postings about charging in this forum, so something still to do....

Is someone having the details/internal diagram of the connections on the alternator?
 
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With most Alternator systems, you won't see much, if any, Voltage rise as the revs increase.

What are you getting at Idle?
Should be around 14.2V, if it's not charging, it'll just show the Battery Voltage of around 12.4 or so.

Anything less than around 13.8V at Idle, and you have a poor connection somewhere.
Prime suspects are the Battery Terminals, the Earth Terminal under the Starter Motor Cover, and the Terminal on the Alternator Post.
The Alternator Terminal is prone to failure, due to corrosion and vibration.
AltLeadFail

It's well worth adding both a second Earth Lead (from the Battery, to an Engine Bellhousing Stud), and a second Charging Lead (from the Alternator Post, directly to the Battery).
Also, carefully check the original Alternator Terminal.
EarthStrap


AlternatorCable2
 
Hi John,
Thanks for the info.
I studied the diagram and beginning to understand the system.
The alternator is connected to the + terminal of the battery via the 40A fuse. The other wires on the alternator on the diagram should be a kind of 'alternator output enable' input. They enable it by a voltage coming from the headlight voltage which is provided via the 30A fuse and the 'light logic relay'. So when the 30A fuse is blown, the alternator will not be enabled. One mistake on the diagram: there is no ground connection drawn for the alternator.

Indeed, the voltage, when charging, goes up to 13.xV, whith higher rev's the voltage goes up more, but doesn't reach 14V. So I will still check the cabling.

Thanks.
Rene.
 
. . . One mistake on the diagram: there is no ground connection drawn for the alternator . . .
Alternators will usually be Grounded/Earthed via their mountings, but it wouldn't hurt to add a dedicated Lead for it.
Any Ground/Earth relying on mating surface contact can give problems due to corrosion, paint, dirt etc, particularly where there are dissimilar metals involved (Galvanic corrosion).
 
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