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Rear brake pad replacement.

Discussion in 'Cal 1400 8V' started by John L, Mar 26, 2018.

  1. John L

    John L Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Famiglia

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    I've had a search on the forum and the workshop manual isn't very clear, so can the rear brake pads be replaced without removing the rear wheel. Looking at the workshop manual all that is required is to remove the pin at the rear and pull the pads out.
    Cheers, John.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2018
  2. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Site Contributor!

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    OK - disclaimer - I've not actually done it on the 1400 (with the wheel in place), but have on many other bikes and there are certainly more qualified people than me who could chime in for sure. It certainly looks like you can, but, the problem with pad replacement is always pushing the piston back in to accommodate the wider new pads. With the caliper in place, it looks like the piston will be hidden behind the disc and thus access to it will be limited (did anybody say screwdriver between disc and piston- no?- good).

    I have however removed the rear wheel and when you pull the axle through, the caliper will come up and you can gain access to the piston etc and give it a good clean. This of course requires jacking the bike, dropping the rear section of the exhaust (no need to remove it completely as it has a flexible joint)) and some basic nut, hex tools and a torque wrench, it's not a big job if you have them - you don't actually have to remove the wheel, you can pull the axle through just enough to release the caliper and lift it clear of the disc.

    I distinctly recall that when I did this, the front of the pads accidentally dropped out from behind their recess in the caliper and only the pad pin and clip stopped them dropping on the floor.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2018
    John L likes this.
  3. dennisj

    dennisj Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I just replaced the rear caliper brake pads this past weekend on my 2014 Cali Touring. John is spot on with his description of the procedure. In my case I also replaced the back tire so my wheel was out. However, I've found that to get the rear wheel off the motorcycle I always remove the caliper first (using John's method) and thus avoid scratching the powder coated paint from the rim by the caliper during wheel removal. Bear in mind that you will need to remove the port side shock absorber to work with the caliper!

    A small addition to John's description: Once you pull the axle out a few inches, so that it clears the caliper mounting boss, you will slide the caliper rearward about one inch or so to clear the slotted anchor pin just forward of the axle. Then you can lift the caliper upward to work on it. Remember to use break cleaner and an old tooth brush to clean the pistons before pushing them back into the caliper, you don't want to force any old brake pad dust/grit back inside the piston chambers.

    While you have things apart you might wish to replace the standard brake fluid bleeder nipple with a speed bleeder. The rear caliper uses an 8mm x 1.25mm by 28mm long speed bleeder. I bought a pair of Russell 639520 speed bleeders for about $20.

    I did a little research on brake pad materials and decided to use Ceramic - Composite (basically ceramic materials suspended in an organic compound). I used SBS brand 674HF pads. The reason I chose the Ceramic based material is in an effort to cut down on the brake dust which was building up on my rear rim.

    Since I've only ridden my bike twenty miles since installing these brake pads I can not comment on their stopping power or brake dust accumulation. I'll try and update this post in the summer after putting a few thousand miles on my Cali Touring.
     
    John L likes this.
  4. LuftWolf

    LuftWolf Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Dennis, great intell on the speed bleeders. Do these work on the front calipers as well?
     
  5. John L

    John L Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Famiglia

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    Finally replaced the rear brake pads, all that is required is to remove clip, tap out the pin at the rear (it taps out towards the wheel) and the pads can be pulled straight out without removing anything else. A squirt of brake cleaner and a small bottle brush cleaned up the pistons pretty well, pushed them back, pads in, pin in, clip in, job done.
     
    David Castro likes this.
  6. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Site Contributor!

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  7. John L

    John L Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Famiglia

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    It's a floating caliper with pistons only on one side so you can push the caliper across against the disc and push the pistons back in, mine moved really easy.
     
  8. PaulDavies

    PaulDavies Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Site Contributor!

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    Ah - that's good to know.
     
  9. CBJoe

    CBJoe Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Digging up this old thread as opposed to creating a new one.....Decided to replace the pads while I was removing/replacing the wheel for a tire change.

    The Spring Plate dropped out of the caliper when I wasn't looking and for the life of me can't figure out how it seats up in the caliper housing.

    Anybody got a picture or clear description? I'm used to seeing some sort of inset or clear positioning point for these springs.

    Cheers, Joe

    IMG-1075.JPG
     
  10. CBJoe

    CBJoe Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Geez...I figured it out. Stupid Joe. Just gonna leave this picture here for others

    It is a bit of a pain as with the caliper off the disk the spring doesn't want to stay in place. I would guess if it was still mounted to the wheel it would keep it from popping out.

    IMG-1089.JPG
     
    groundhog105 likes this.
  11. Mrmerlin

    Mrmerlin Tuned and Synch'ed

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    OK so bend the bent tab to provide the required grip ,
    Based on your picture one of the securing tabs is bent.
    If that wont work put a dab of grease on it then insert the pads
     
    groundhog105 likes this.
  12. Chet Van Aken

    Chet Van Aken Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Here are a couple pictures: There is an insert in mine not shown in CBJoe's picture. The other picture shows the spring clip, which fell out of mine when I took it off. It really does not fit as far as I can tell, it only there are only extensions on one side of the insert to hold the tangs on one side of the clip and it is slightly oversized to push in place.

    Also new vs old pads after 22,000 miles, I really don't use the rear much but do use it more than on other bikes. Wish I had skipped the pads at this point.
     

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  13. dennisj

    dennisj Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Yikes, it looks like I'm a year late responding to your question about front brake caliper speed bleeders. I guess I'm too late to party but maybe this entry might be helpful going forward. Enjoy.

    The answer is yes, THOUGH Piaggio hasn't made it easy for us. Here are the parts and sizes:
    Front Calipers: (1 bleeder each caliper) Russell 639570, M7x1.0 by 29mm long {chrome}
    Rear Caliper: (one bleeder only) Russell 639520, M8x1.25 by 28mm long {chrome}
    Master Cylinders, Both@handlebars: Russell 639570, M7x1.0 by 29mm long {chrome}
    Clutch Slave Cylinder: Goodridge SB1010, M10x1.0 by 34mm long {chrome}
    I bought all these speed bleeders on Amazon and paid approximately $10 each for them.

    The only bleeder I didn't replace was on the rear brake master cylinder.

    These speed bleeders are fantastic! Fast, tidy and efficient. I replaced all of the hydraulic fluids in my Cali at two years of age, and I'll do it every two years as maintenance. When it came to bleeding the Clutch I had to bleed it about four times, both at the Master Cylinder and then at the Slave Cylinder to get a nice firm clutch handle.

     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2019
  14. Robert Gibson

    Robert Gibson Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Site Contributor!

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    Hey Dennis
    Can you confirm part numbers for the Front Calipers/Master Cylinders. I can't find any reference for Russell 635970 but CAN for Russell 639570, M7 x 1.0 x 34mm.
    Many thanks.
     
  15. dennisj

    dennisj Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Hey, it looks like my dyslexia has surfaced again. You have the correct part number Russell 639570. Nice catch, thanks for bringing it to my attention. I also see that I listed two bleeder nipples each for the front calipers, wrong, just one each. I'll fix it now.
     
  16. Chet Van Aken

    Chet Van Aken Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Anyone have a definitive answer on the spring clip? I just left it off as there seems to be no logical place for it to go. It won't fit in the insert and where CBJoe placed it, it is just kind of laying there. Never seen anything like it, usually all the tension springs on other type calipers have an obvious and stable location. The pads fit tightly and are not rattling around without it but its bugging me a little ( not sure I could hear them anyway when riding). I put a little grease in the insert for the sliding action but the pads can't fall out with the disk between them. Also looking in the service manual the rear wheel diagram shows the axle going in from the wrong side of the wheel which doesn't build confidence.
     
  17. groundhog105

    groundhog105 Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I would put the clip back in where it belongs. The picture of how it’s located in the caliper is posted earlier in this thread.
     

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