• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Rear fender mounting tabs broken

kdirtrider

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
61
Location
Grand Ledge, MI
I brought home a new Cali 1400 Custom a couple of weeks ago. During the first ride my buddy noticed the license plate bracket and fender bouncing a lot when following behind. I now have 500 miles on the bike and notice that the fender is vibrating really bad when idling. Took the seat off and noticed both mounting tabs for the rear fender are broke. Anyone else have this problem? Looks like a bad design. :( :(
 
You don't mention which mounting tabs are broken.

The mounting bolts have a reputation for coming loose. There was a technical bulletin (012-2013) which specifically mentioned the two bolts under the rear fender (#9 AP8152278 Screw w/ flange M6x16 in the parts diagram) should have Loctite added to the threads and retorqued to 10Nm. However, I have also experienced the three bolts above the fender (#5 AP8152285 Screw w/ flange & #6 AP8152273 Screw w/ flange M5x16 in the same diagram) coming loose even after the ones in the bulletin were tightened. A couple of months later, I found another bolt on the rear subframe which supports the rear of the fender missing.

Hmmm. Note to oneself. Must be time to recheck these bolts. You should be able to get a replacement fender under warranty, especially if the mounting tabs are the same as referred to in the bulletin.
 
It is the tabs under the seat, just above the battery on both sides.

Looks like the fender is being stressed. Maybe the sub frame bracket is bent slightly.

Guess I'll call the dealer.
 

Attachments

  • KelleyCal14BrknTab1.jpg
    KelleyCal14BrknTab1.jpg
    101 KB · Views: 637
  • KelleyCal14BrknTab2.jpg
    KelleyCal14BrknTab2.jpg
    109.9 KB · Views: 632
Only the plastic fender is broken. The plastic fender follows to curve of the frame and subframe for mounting. Appears curve of the metal doesn't match the plastic so the plastic is being bent to the shape of the metal which puts stress on the plastic at the mounting points. Probably broke when I hit the first Michigan pothole in the road during the first ride.
 
Update: Dealer replaced fender under warranty. Technician told me it's not the first one they have replaced with same issue. Got it home and rode 150 miles and noticed bolts were loose again on the rear sub bracket. Guess Guzzi didn't test on Michigan roads!
Pulled the fender off and removed the clips Guzzi used. Both were cracked. Replaced with lock nuts and blue loctite.

Buy the way...I love this bike!!
 
Hello,

Mine broke and the bolts were tight. yes it does not follow frame and looks like undue stress was applied.
Also....sigh is any having issues with water getting into headlight and tail light assembly. ... and speedometer
fogging up so bad at times you cant read it?...Wow if wasn't so fun to ride........

Mike
 
Affirmative on water getting into headlight and taillight. I am sending pics to Dave Richardson at Moto International where I purchased the bike to get his opinion regarding a warranty issue.
 

Attachments

  • 023.JPG
    023.JPG
    104 KB · Views: 52
  • 024.JPG
    024.JPG
    98.1 KB · Views: 53
  • 025.JPG
    025.JPG
    113.3 KB · Views: 53
It just happened to me.

The left fender mounting tab (under the seat), is broken just past the reinforcement 'ribs'. There appears to be a lot of stress involved, as the broken tab (remaining on the fender) is now 15mm in the air. It takes a bit of pressure to push the broken tab down until it is flush with the fender retaining bolt (and what's left of the tab retained under the bolt).

Oh, and this happened at less than 400 miles.

I certainly hope that this is a stateside part. Else it could be a few months.
 
Last edited:
Had a chance this weekend to take apart my rear fender assy and lo and behold my right fender plastic tab is cracked and the fender subframe metal post (middle top fender bolt) tab is completely sheared off. Also missing right M6 subframe screw that probably started the whole ball rolling. Got a warranty claim into the dealer, waiting to hear back. In the meantime I blue-locktited some M6 screws into the clasps (they weren't compromised) and I'm good till the snow flies. Lot less shaking going on but I wouldn't feel safe carrying a passenger with the seat grabrail compromised.

IMG 7093a
 
UPDATE- Dealer ordered, received (in less than a week from MG) and replaced the rear fender and its subframe - no charge warranty.
I suggested to mechanic to reverse the order of the seat grabrail/plastic tabs (as I had already done) to minimize stress on the plastic fender tabs. Normally the metal grabrail would be bolted on top of plastic tabs which add extra stress pushing them down anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2 " to bolt tight. On non-grabrail installs, reccommed using collar spacers or some other device to bring the bolted-down depth to approx. the same height as the plasic tabs' normal (unbolted) rest position.
 
Affirmative on water getting into headlight and taillight. I am sending pics to Dave Richardson at Moto International where I purchased the bike to get his opinion regarding a warranty issue.
Dave came through for me again! New taillights will be sent to me after I send mine in. Lookee what I found on the back of each of the lights...
LeakTestOK
 
Had a chance this weekend to take apart my rear fender assy and lo and behold my right fender plastic tab is cracked and the fender subframe metal post (middle top fender bolt) tab is completely sheared off. Also missing right M6 subframe screw that probably started the whole ball rolling. Got a warranty claim into the dealer, waiting to hear back. In the meantime I blue-locktited some M6 screws into the clasps (they weren't compromised) and I'm good till the snow flies. Lot less shaking going on but I wouldn't feel safe carrying a passenger with the seat grabrail compromised.

View attachment 7236
After removing the fender to pull the taillights, noticed missing m6 subframe bolt on the left, and then noticed that as a result the subframe is loose. Jeezzz, come on Luigi!
MissingBolt MissingBoltCloseUp
 
Thanks guys... I'll jump on this, when it returns from rental duties this weekend. Guess I should spend some time with everything hidden under the plastics, before things fall off and go missing.
 
Back
Top