I hope someone does some analysis as to root cause because I am concerned as the owner of a bike like the OP's.
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Same!I hope someone does some analysis as to root cause because I am concerned as the owner of a bike like the OP's.
Interesting note, my policy has a endorsement called Cae20 which states complete replacement , It was available because it was a new bike and I was the first to insure it. I read that as they buy a new bike upon loss. They are sure dragging their heals as its been almost a month........its not like I can ride anyway. lol I am leaning towards riding my V Strom first as I have an attachment of over 125,000km with it , the MG has sort of lost its appeal right now."This should be basic analysis that any reputable engineering firm could perform".
Or the insurance company could save thousands of dollars and just pay for the bike.
As the rider of this bike, I can say there is absolutely no rust or corrosion on these wheels. Bike is stored in dry climate garage and had only 9800km. Mitch posted this photo on Advrider, he is the person who drove 280km 1 way over night to pick me up and get me to an airport to go to a hospital. Nearest ambulance was 600km away. Bike is still at his house waiting for the Insurance company to make up their mind what to do. It is 1700km north of my city. Insurance wants to preserve the wheel for inspection.
Scott, question? if you were riding along at 80km/hr and your rear wheel started to wobble and then threw you to the ground would you not think something was amiss with the wheel? My RCMP report stated that I thought just before the accident that I had a rear flat. Upon picking up the bike they noted the rear still had 42PSI and was not flat. I just want to heal and be treated fairly with a pay out or new bike. I have not spoken to MG and realize that shit happens, I am happy to be alive as the pressure from the chest against my heart caused me to flat line for 3 to 5 seconds at a time literally a few dozen times. I was asked if I wanted to be resuscitated and they also put the pads on me ready to paddle me and jump start the heart.
Why was the spokes like this? We may never know.
As far as I know just mine. It was posted in 2 different forums, once by me and once by my friend MgastAre we talking 1 failed hub, or two?
As far as I know just mine. It was posted in 2 different forums, once by me and once by my friend Mgast
Thanks for the thoughtful reply.
Cal
Do you touch the hub when replacing a tire?My first thoughts also were that the tire replacement had something to do with the mishap. When removing the old tire the nipples may have been damaged.
It depends.Do you touch the hub when replacing a tire?
I apologize if I missed it, but how many miles are on your bike?
Jason
No prior warning, I had just changed the oil and filter 200km before this in Fort Simpson and did not notice anything out of place but then again I was not looking at the wheel specifically. I think the insurance company wants to talk with Moto Guzzi, Ill let it play out with them. My expenses to get home were high due to the location. New tires were put on the rims at a shop in Calgary 1800km prior, you would think the tech would have seen a spoke out of position or broken when he did the tire change. I was loving the new Mitas E07/s Bike had 9800km at the time all gentle 68 year old rider km/s
I don't see how flying rocks could be at all responsible. The heads of the spokes on the rear wheel are protected by the ABS tone ring and brake rotor on the left side and the final drive housing on the right side.My first thoughts also were that the tire replacement had something to do with the mishap. When removing the old tire the nipples may have been damaged.
I'm not sure what the road surface was like but some Northern roads are done with "Texas Pea Gravel". Is there a chance that a large stone or stones kicked up from the front wheel could be in any way responsible?
It is supposed to be an adventure bike and if changing a tire can ruin the rim? It was changed on a tire machine in a motorcycle shop, I guess any thing is possible. Does not really matter anymore as I am slowly healing and hope to be back riding and golfing in the future.(I just don't understand how changing the tire could have overstressed the spokes)
This type of work needs to be done on a truing stand with the tire off. And as Scott said earlier this isn't a job for a novice.Just went out, popped my bike up on the center stand, and tapped each of the spokes on my rear wheel (21 E5); a virtual symphony of different tones was revealed. I have just under 4000 miles on mine currently. I feel flats toward the innermost portion of each spoke: assume these accept a spoke wrench? Anyone know what size, and if this is the correct way of adjusting the spokes on E5 tubeless wheels? Regrettably, I don’t have calipers handy. I also couldn’t find the procedure explained in the service manual…
…Since it is now clear that both sets of photos are from the Calvin's crash, I am concerned about the recent tire replacement being a contributing factor (I just don't understand how changing the tire could have overstressed the spokes).
Since the heads broke off the spoke ends at the hub, those spoke ends had loading (stress) beyond what they could handle. That stress could come from spokes being loose and not sharing the load with other spokes. I did not intend to imply that the spokes were overtightened, only that the heads broke off the spoke ends. I am sorry if my comments were out of line.There is no reason to assume that the spokes were over stressed, at least in terms of static tension.
I am much more inclined to go the exact opposite way and believe that the wheel actually loosened up to the point of this failure.
The strength of a wire wheel lies in the relative equal distribution of forces across the spoke pattern. When spokes loosen up from stretching, the wheel becomes significantly weakened in the process.
To me, catastrophic failure is much more likely from this loosening than tightening.
Besides, how would you account for this random tightening?