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Rebuild SP1000 issues

RKS_DK

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
31
Location
Denmark, Hadsund
So finally got my SP out and running, a few issues though.

1. left front caliber seems stuck, but it's kinda weird there is actually plenty room for the disc, but when I bolt the caliber on to the fork, the pad furthest away from the disc is pressed on the disc, but the pad closest to the wheel has visible gap, almost as the caliber fits too close?

2. Fuel is comming back out the intake of the carbs.. these are brand new pre jetted (by HMB) PHF-36 so I assume nothing is stuck ??

Any advice would be appreciated
 

john zibell

Moderator
Staff member
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
8,508
Location
Huntsville, AL
You may need to replace the caliper, but I think in Europe you can get a rebuild kit. If the pistons aren't shot, a kit may be the way to go. As to the carbs, verify the correct float level and that the needle valve isn't stuck. You should be able to find Del Orto manuals on line.
 

scottmastrocinque

Scott Mastrocinque
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
1,787
Location
Findlay, Ohio
I 2nd John’s opinion that carbs are wrong float height and/or shutoff needle not seating. most likely float height is set incorrect.
 

jr1967

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
211
If both pistons in the caliper move freely, check if the gaps between pads and disc are the same on both sides with the bolts not tightened. If there is space between the caliper and the fork lugs, you need to fit shims. They probably fell off when you removed the calipers before your rebuild. Your Guzzi dealer should have them.
If there is no space and your caliper needs to move further towards the wheel, you might need to make a spacer to bring your disc towards the forks. Why you would need that now and not before I do not know. There is a chance that if you turn your front wheel around, that everything will fit as before. Hope this helps.
 

Moto-Uno

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Messages
379
Location
Burnaby,B.C
And hope the tire is in the correct direction afterwards :) . Peter
Also concerning the carbs , it may be a flood of sediment from your tank causing the carbs to flood .
Drop the drain bowl nut and check for any crud in it .
 

RKS_DK

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
31
Location
Denmark, Hadsund
Thanks for the replies.

I took the brake calibers apart, the pistons and rubber parts looked new and moved perfectly, when using compressed air.
I removed som material of the pad and problem was solved.
Tire direction is correct, but since they were off the wheel for painting I suppose the wheel rotation could be swapped and by that the discs swapped.. dident think that mattered tho??

The carbs are brand new, why would anything be stuck??
Anyway it seems its only when shutting the engine off a little gas is at the mouth.

I have some more annoying problems now tho.
Admitting I was way over my head when I took it apart, so bear with me :think:

Oil is comming from-
Final drive where the shaft is connecting, with 4 bolts - suppose a gasket or o-ring ?

Bell/clutch housing - I thought I did a thourough job there, I replaced the main seal, replaced the washers on the oil return line, replaced the gasket on the "big" / top oil return line. Used metal sealant around the cam shaft plug, but still oil is leaking from the drain hole :mad:

Oil is seeping out around the LH spark plug...
cylinder/ pistons where replaced and the head was refurbished.
Could I be so lucky the stretch bolts just needs to be tightened or is this an indication of me doing something wrong?

RH side exhaust is way hotter than LH - but carbs arent perfectly adjusted yet, so hoping thats why?

Starting to feel lost, although I have ridden it for 50kms and it "feels" ok otherwise.
Thinking I should maybe send it to a mechanic and have him go over my work, I dont feel much point in taking the gearbox of it again.
 
Last edited:

jr1967

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
211
There should be an o-ring where the final drive attaches with the four bolts to the swing arm.
The seal at the rear of the crankshaft probably doesn't leak, but the bottom two bolts of the bearing carrier could be leaking since they are threaded into holes that are open inside the crankcase. Yes a design fault in my opinion. Some sealant on the threads fixes that. Another possibility is the rubber sump vent hose that might be cracked under the hose clamp on top of the engine. That one is hard to see and will cause a drip under the bellhousing.
Another possibility is the gearbox seal or clutch rod seal.
Oil around the sparkplug can be coming up along the cylinder/head stud. There should be o-rings around the short studs at the base gasket. But re-torque the heads first (and re-set valve clearances) and check if that solves the problem.
A hotter exhaust on one side normally means that that side is working harder, so most likely that carb opens first.
Make a checklist of all problems you find and tackle the ones that you feel you can do one by one, to not get overwhelmed.
 

RKS_DK

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
31
Location
Denmark, Hadsund
Make a checklist of all problems you find and tackle the ones that you feel you can do one by one, to not get overwhelmed.

Thank you - great advice!

gearbox was overhauled by HMB so I assume it's not on that side.

I thought I had covered all bases on the engine side aside from the main bearing seal, the drip is much less than before, but I ssuppose you could be right about the bolts and the vent hose.

Just alot of work getting in there again, was nervous enogh about putting clutch and flywheel back together.
If I can sort the other problems I might leave this for the winter.
 

jr1967

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
211
Just check the vent hose first, that's an easy one. I put sealant around the vent pipe where it comes out the top of the engine, so when the hose cracks, it doesn't leak down into the bellhousing but over the top of the engine. That's easier to diagnose.
Good luck with it!
 

RKS_DK

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
31
Location
Denmark, Hadsund
Just check the vent hose first, that's an easy one. I put sealant around the vent pipe where it comes out the top of the engine, so when the hose cracks, it doesn't leak down into the bellhousing but over the top of the engine. That's easier to diagnose.
Good luck with it!

All those hoses and vent system is new tho, but will double check it.
 

Moto-Uno

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Messages
379
Location
Burnaby,B.C
Any leak from the bell housing is kinda easily checked by taking a whiff of the oil , any skunky smell is trans oil .
And carbs are not too hard to check if they're reasonably sync'd by opening them a bit and listening for the
sound of 2 closing clicks, and adjusting the cables until a single click is heard , it's surprisingly accurate if done
with care . Peter
 

Tonerjockey

High Miler
GT Contributor
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
726
Location
San Jose
Hey RKS_DK, welcome to Guzzi Land!
All of the symptoms you are seeing are pretty much "standard" problems. After a while you'll have them addressed to your satisfaction.
Lots of tinkering... but when ya fix one of the problems... the joy makes it all worth while. Also, riding the bike is nice too :)
I like the "make a list" recommendation. That one works for me. Keeps ya focused and ensures ya get 'em all done.

One tool I find shortens the mess around time is a carb synch tool. I use a Motion Pro SyncPro. Once you get it figured out, it takes the guesswork out of "which carb" and "how much" and so forth. It's a mite pricey but IMHO well worth it.

Happy Guzzi-ing,

Alex
 

RKS_DK

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 19, 2016
Messages
31
Location
Denmark, Hadsund
Re-torqued heads this weekend, I found the plug was loose and missing it's gasket.. not sure if this is where oil was comming from but problem seems gone now.

One of the nuts on the final drive had oil around it, replaced it with new lock nut and new washer, also seems solved now.

I'm actually not sure oil is from the bell housing anymore as it seems the sump is leaky.. not sure why, but will replace the gaskets.

Couple pics :)



1.jpg

2.jpg
 
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