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Refurbishing my 2007 Norge

Discussion in 'BNS12 Chat & Tech' started by mylovelyhorse, May 15, 2019.

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  1. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    A good and capable friend came over today & together we have spent today working on the Norge. Most of the work was on the wiring for the horns and adding an extra 40A fused feed from the alternator to the battery. We have also looked at some other bits and pieces of the loom and made some repairs.

    We found a mysterious bridged connection up by the relays etc. by the battery compartment - we couldn't decide what it was for so just put it back into place:
    [​IMG]

    We also found a relay with a damaged wire and a supply from the battery that had dropped off its connection & needed repairs. There's a yellow that was cut rather short and had detached itself from the bullet connector used to join to an in-line fuse & thence to the battery. On the other side of this connector is a relay. No idea what for.

    Damage visible & yellow wire temporarily removed for repair:
    [​IMG]

    Repaired & relay reinserted. I wonder what it's for:
    [​IMG]

    Up at the pointy end I remounted the twin horns and reconnected them. Only one relay this time so only one supply cable, forked to both horns. We fitted the connection to the loom and the various power connections through a 10A fuse (there was an inline one but I don't like them so I've invested in a relay block with a fuse holder in it from VWP.) It took some messing about but now there's the original loom reaching back along the side of the air box and connecting to a twin cable to the relay and another cable running on the other side of the air box (heat shielded) and down the front of the engine to the horns as shown below:
    [​IMG]

    There is a bit of a nest of wires in the battery compartment but actually there's less than there was. I now know what all the cables I have worked on do (I think) and after reattaching the battery the horns have been tested. They do the do nicely:
    [​IMG]

    After that it seemed sensible to replace the air box and get that all sorted out. On went the air box and the daft little box on the front of the air box and after much wriggling and willing it all went into place and the connections onto the hoses were all reattached:
    [​IMG]

    Then on went the hoses to the blow back box at the front:
    [​IMG]

    I cleaned out the switch gear on both sides to try and get everything working better. The actions seem smoother so I hope all is good now. Then on went the front mudguard and the tank:
    [​IMG]

    It is starting to look a little more like a motorcycle and less like a random collection of bits.
    [​IMG]

    There wasn't anywhere near enough time to get the exhausts back on the bike. I am out all day tomorrow and so won't be working on it then. Sunday I may have a little headache and possibly a lie in. I still have leave to use and so I will be booking a week off late Nov and getting it all back together (I hope) then.

    Irritatingly, I have realised as I write this up that the tank has to come back off as I put all the hoses for the little blow back box in place but didn't remember to tighten up the various fittings that hold the hoses on. Insert rude words here.

    Nevertheless, all in all a good day's work.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2019
  2. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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  3. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Bike started just fine before I had all this apart. That connection might have been just holding on as I moved things around for access and that’s when I noticed it had parted.

    Hopefully after fixing it the bike will start properly again after it goes back together!
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2019
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  4. Kevin.NZ

    Kevin.NZ Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Yea my Breva has that mysterious bridged connector. The small breather pipe from the front box, instead of connecting it to the airbox I routed it to a separate bottle as I found it made the airbox wet with oil mist and it made the air intakes gummy, there was a service bulletin on how to clean them as it caused stalling when winding the throttle off.
     
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  5. scottmastrocinque

    scottmastrocinque High Miler GT Famiglia

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    You don't have to guess what the relays are or any other wire for that matter. I'm pretty sure the wiring diagrams are posted here on the site under DOWNLOADS. Let me check. Yep...

    Carl Allisons Wiring Diagrams

    The relays are 2, 3 and 4.

    Most everybody's relays have been moved around one way or another by this time so position means nothing. However, you can tell which relay is which by the color and number of the wires going into the connector. Good stuff.


    IMG-0032.gif
     
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  6. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Ah right, that’s rather comforting :)

    That’s a thought for next time I have the tank off. About 4K miles I hope!
     
  7. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Magnificent - thank you very much. I was not aware of that resource. I’m going to get that properly printed & laminated and put it on my garage wall :)

    Indeed yes. I have a very poorly printed wiring diagram in the back of a manual on A4 and it’s just about unreadable. So I didn’t bother trying to read it...

    Very good stuff.
     
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  8. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    1,212 curses.

    Friday's work included putting the tank back on and now I've realised that I may have left one bolt out of the fuel pump plate and also have left off the two hose retainer clips that fit on there:
    [​IMG]

    I mean, it won't kill me but it's awkward and would be better done with one person to hold the tank while the other does the work - that way I don't have to undo the fuel connector again. I really don't want to do that more times than I have to.

    Still, I've tidied up the electrics and refitted the battery - although the -ve connection isn't done up, of course.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    The fuel gauge on my Norge tells pork pies about how much fuel is left. It coughs and splutters at 160-170 miles, sometimes less.

    Tomorrow evening when I lift the tank to replace the bolt mentioned above, I have the opportunity to take the plate off and the pump / gauge assembly out for inspection and potential fixing. Is there anything to look out for that I can do to improve the reliability and range of the fuel gauge or do I live with it as it is?
     
  10. scottmastrocinque

    scottmastrocinque High Miler GT Famiglia

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    Another resource for you...

    I think what you are looking for is discussed on the site. I found some interesting ones that you can see when you do a SEARCH (above right at top of top screen) for " Norge Fuel Gauge Issue " and you can see the responses. Happy hunting.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2019
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  11. Bill Hagan

    Bill Hagan GT Reference GT Famiglia

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    My memory isn't what it used to be -- and probably never was! :giggle: -- but I would swear under oath (with only mild worries about perjury ;)), that I routinely get 200+ miles on a tank.

    Bill
     
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  12. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    I seem to recall that the sending unit for the fuel level can be replaced. I don't see it on the 2007 Norge parts break out but check with a local dealer. BTW, my 2006 1100 Breva (about the same setup) delivers well over 200 miles before the low fuel countdown begins.
     
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  13. Kevin.NZ

    Kevin.NZ Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I had to replace the sender unit for my Breva 1100 a few years ago, I got it from this site. Mine wouldn't show "full". its an easy job, replace the filter while your at it and use the proper clips. As John says you easy get over 200Kms. The sender does come apart and you may find it is sticking but for the trouble its a cheap fix to replace it.
     
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  14. Brian UK

    Brian UK GT Reference

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    over 200 miles, not km. 200 km less than 130 miles. And my Norge does too.
    But we make allowances for these outposts of the Empire which have taken to using funny units. :D;)
     
  15. Kevin.NZ

    Kevin.NZ Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    oops point taken, Im actually an Essex boy, so you fink i would know better
     
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  16. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    So I have taken the pump assembly out and poured the remaining litre or three of fuel in the tank into my jerry can. There's muck in the bottom of the tank - not an awful lot but enough suspended in the fuel to be sure I want to wipe out the tank interior.

    The fuel pump assembly is rather corroded, plus frankly I don't think the fuel gauge slider was moving at all. I had to give it a good shake to get it to move. I've taken it apart, will give the parts a good clean and reassemble. I think most of it is too delicate for my parts washer - although it is designed to be submerged in petrol so I dunno. What say the panel?
     
  17. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Yeah - that search got me 5 threads, 3 of which were started by me (includes this one) and 2 of which turned out not to be relevant :(

    Still, a good reminder that I should search before asking questions, thanks.
     
  18. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I hope this is the case - mine was certainly sticking when I took the pump assembly out. I have it apart but haven't tried to clean / reassemble yet. Waiting for the fuel smell to disperse in the garage first!
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2019
  19. mylovelyhorse

    mylovelyhorse Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Fuel pump assembly out:
    [​IMG]

    There's an awful lot of corrosion on the base plate:
    [​IMG]

    Other side:
    [​IMG]

    Sticking gauge assembly out:
    [​IMG]

    And apart:
    [​IMG]

    There's light scoring on the inside of the contact plates - this is the plastic side:
    [​IMG]

    and this the metal side:
    [​IMG]

    There's a tiny (but maybe crucial - who knows) but if crud in the bottom of the gauge mechanism. This will be cleaned out like all the other parts. I still can't decide whether 20 mins in 30oC solution in the parts cleaner will hurt it or not.

    [​IMG]

    The tank opening looks like a basking shark ;)

    [​IMG]

    It's all sealed up now and the pump & gauge parts bagged. I will give it a day or so for the fumes in the garage to subside and then I'll decide whether or not I parts washer the gauge. As for the rest, I'll have a poke around and see if anything looks, well, wrong. Or dirty. Or both.
     
  20. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    To clean that out just use a carb cleaner formulated for removing fuel residue. Anything else may damage the plastic.
     
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