• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

replacing brake pads on rear

caznpete66

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
18
Ok guys here I am again ,got most of my parts that make the nevada run well ,like oil filter ,rocker covers as asked by my new maintainence man ,Charlie ,you know who you are ,and got my rear brake pads today in the mai lfrom Melbourne ,so heres the question I need answered .
Do I just need to remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the disc ,or is there more involved ,as they are the only thing needing replacing at the moment ,can it bew done by me or would I require a hand?yours in getting help Peter
 
That's about it.
You'll need a 8 or 10mm (don't remember) and a 13 mm key (Nut on the backside of the caliper).
There's a small retaining ring on the pad fixing pin (or whatever you call it) be careful, and don't loose it.

Open up the pad-gap (force them back) before you remove the old pads. That way you don't need to scratch the new pads when mounting the caliper again.

Grease the mounting bolts with a little aluminum grease or equal heat resistant grease before mounting.
 
Holt said:
That's about it.
You'll need a 8 or 10mm (don't remember) and a 13 mm key (Nut on the backside of the caliper).
There's a small retaining ring on the pad fixing pin (or whatever you call it) be careful, and don't loose it.

Open up the pad-gap (force them back) before you remove the old pads. That way you don't need to scratch the new pads when mounting the caliper again.

Grease the mounting bolts with a little aluminum grease or equal heat resistant grease before mounting.

There's also that springy wire clip that launches off to the far side of the garage when you pull out the pin from the caliper. Took me ages to find that again :lol:
 
rossw said:
There's also that springy wire clip that launches off to the far side of the garage when you pull out the pin from the caliper. Took me ages to find that again :lol:

Ooh! Congratulations! Usually it won't be found before the new one you required is in place... :mrgreen:
 
Holt said:
rossw said:
There's also that springy wire clip that launches off to the far side of the garage when you pull out the pin from the caliper. Took me ages to find that again :lol:

Ooh! Congratulations! Usually it won't be found before the new one you required is in place... :mrgreen:

Having to catch the train for two weeks is powerful motivation for searching hard. :lol:
 
Back
Top