• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Some 850 T5 questions

shabba said:
I noticed fluid leaking out of the inspection hole on the right side of the transmission. It's never done that...what in the world is that from? It's GL-5, not motor oil.
Click to expand...

Really! It's coming out of the inspection hole? There a drip hole at the center bottom of the bell housing - make sure that hole is not clogged. If it's coming out of the inspection hole that suggests to me that the trans oil is pooling at the bottom of the bell housing and being whipped up by the flywheel - not good for the clutch!

Looks like you're gonna have to crack her open and replace the input seal and all the others while you're there.
 
If the bike had been sitting before you got it the chrome may be peeling in the jugs. If the jugs look good you can take the heads to a machine shop while they are off.
Click to expand...

The T5 is nicasil so there is no chrome to peel. Repair is by either buying new ones or sending it off to a specialist who does nicasil plating for two-strokes and the like. I suspect at 63K you don't need bores and if there is a problem there it is stuck/incorrectly installed rings. If you pull the heads, pulling the bores takes all of another 10 minutes.

The transmission leak could be the outer input seal or the clutch push rod seal. Unfortunately that requires removing the engine/transmission - a pain but not a big deal. As Trout says - this is not terminal. Ride it until it is convenient to take it apart while keeping an eye on the transmission oil level.

'Blowzy' in my previous post should have been 'blowby' - damn autocorrect.
 
Chris R said:
If the bike had been sitting before you got it the chrome may be peeling in the jugs. If the jugs look good you can take the heads to a machine shop while they are off.
Click to expand...

The T5 is nicasil so there is no chrome to peel. Repair is by either buying new ones or sending it off to a specialist who does nicasil plating for two-strokes and the like. I suspect at 63K you don't need bores and if there is a problem there it is stuck/incorrectly installed rings. If you pull the heads, pulling the bores takes all of another 10 minutes.

The transmission leak could be the outer input seal or the clutch push rod seal. Unfortunately that requires removing the engine/transmission - a pain but not a big deal. As Trout says - this is not terminal. Ride it until it is convenient to take it apart while keeping an eye on the transmission oil level.

'Blowzy' in my previous post should have been 'blowby' - damn autocorrect.
Click to expand...

I figured blowby. :lol:

I'll plan on the heads in cooler weather for sure. The bike is not using a noticeable amount of oil. It leaks more than it uses honestly and the cloud of smoke has only occurred twice thus far.

The transmission leak was odd. It was present after the bike sat for 72 hours. I decided to change the trans fluid and the final drive fluid last night. Good idea...the old GL-5 was awful. Took it out today to see if I was able to fix the tachometer cable oil leak (I wasn't. :cry: ) and the shifting became...well...not as BMW-ish as it had been. Not great but light years better than what it was. The bike was also much smoother at cruise.

I'll check the clutch tomorrow and see if there is any fluid. I'm more concerned with the leaks at this point as it seems the oil line that feeds the heads is leaking on the left side and dripping down onto my foot and, of course, the tachometer cable is leaking pretty badly. I'll probably JB weld it until I can get a new cable. Guzziology does not seem to have the answer to this one.
 
My tacho cable was leaking . Until I put another shroud over it . I just pushed a hunk of fuel line over the nipple at the bottom and cable tied it there . The other end is way up by the tacho itself. No More Leaks .
 
Supaflee said:
My tacho cable was leaking . Until I put another shroud over it . I just pushed a hunk of fuel line over the nipple at the bottom and cable tied it there . The other end is way up by the tacho itself. No More Leaks .
Click to expand...

I used some jb weld this morning to see if it would stop the leak. I had used other methods similar to yours but nothing worked. Ill order a new cable soon enough but the ride to work tomorrow should tell me if the epoxy route is a hit or miss. Its been curing since about 8am.
 
shabba said:
Supaflee said:
My tacho cable was leaking . Until I put another shroud over it . I just pushed a hunk of fuel line over the nipple at the bottom and cable tied it there . The other end is way up by the tacho itself. No More Leaks .
Click to expand...

I used some jb weld this morning to see if it would stop the leak. I had used other methods similar to yours but nothing worked. Ill order a new cable soon enough but the ride to work tomorrow should tell me if the epoxy route is a hit or miss. Its been curing since about 8am.
Click to expand...

The JB weld has slowed the oil but it's still leaking out. It appears to me that the oil is coming from where the tach cable screws into the front of the motor. Infuriating, but it seems a new cable is needed to end this once and for all. What I hate is that the cable appears to be intact.
 
shabba said:
The JB weld has slowed the oil but it's still leaking out. It appears to me that the oil is coming from where the tach cable screws into the front of the motor. Infuriating, but it seems a new cable is needed to end this once and for all. What I hate is that the cable appears to be intact.
Click to expand...

Check the crush washer under the tach drive, or the drive unit may be loose.
 
john zibell said:
shabba said:
The JB weld has slowed the oil but it's still leaking out. It appears to me that the oil is coming from where the tach cable screws into the front of the motor. Infuriating, but it seems a new cable is needed to end this once and for all. What I hate is that the cable appears to be intact.
Click to expand...

Check the crush washer under the tach drive, or the drive unit may be loose.
Click to expand...

You are talking about where it goes into the case correct? I looked at it last night for a few moments and noticed that the oil is creeping almost all the way up the cable. It's about 4-5 inches from the back of the tach itself.
 
shabba said:
You are talking about where it goes into the case correct? I looked at it last night for a few moments and noticed that the oil is creeping almost all the way up the cable. It's about 4-5 inches from the back of the tach itself.
Click to expand...

Yes at the timing case. Be sure the drive unit is installed correctly. Also the way the factory cable is made, the twists and direction of rotation should push any oil back to the timing case. If the oil is going that high, you do need to replace the cable.
 
john zibell said:
shabba said:
You are talking about where it goes into the case correct? I looked at it last night for a few moments and noticed that the oil is creeping almost all the way up the cable. It's about 4-5 inches from the back of the tach itself.
Click to expand...

Yes at the timing case. Be sure the drive unign is installed correctly. Also the way the factory cable is made, the twists and direction of rotation should push any oil back to the timing case. If the oil is going that high, you do need to replace the cable.
Click to expand...

Yes, I think that will be the final solution to this particular leak.

So... eventful weekend. I adjusted the valves on Saturday. Not knowing when it had been done and desiring to get to know the bike better, I went about it and followed Guzziology's advice. When I got the valves to closed position, I thought I would use my feeler gauge to see where they were as far as clearances. Well, using the thinest feeler I had, I was unable to slide it between the rocker and the valve. The bike had been sitting for 2 days so it was stone cold. I made sure the cylinder was at TDC and both valves were closed so all the steps were there. I set the valves at .22 mm, per Guzziology, and went on about my business. Of course the bike is louder now, but I assume there is supposed to be some valve noise, correct? Nothing loud, nothing bad, just some valves moving about.

I went for a long ride yesterday. The bike seemed fine, no issues. Plenty of power, nothing funny really. Well, the idle is higher now. The bike also seems to shake a little more than it did before at idle. Again, nothing bad, but the idle is about 300 rpm higher than it was and the shaking isn't BSA bad, but it's noticeable.

On the ride to work this morning, a cool morning here in Richmond, I got the smoke from the right side cylinder. The only times it has smoked on me have been after a jaunt down the interstate in the afternoon. It's never happened in the morning and never happenend before getting on the interstate where I cruise between 70-80 mph. This was on a main road at about 45-60 mph. And it was a LOT of smoke this time. I'm still thinking a stuck ring, but I cannot help think that the valve adjustment has been a net negative for the bike.
 
Rode again this morning, temperature out was high 60's/low 70's. Once again, lots of smoke until I took it up the interstate. Once I got off my exit, no more smoke. It's completely the opposite of what it was doing before.

Provided this is a stuck ring, is there no other method of fixing it than pulling the cylinder? I suppose I can do that myself but what about re-ringing it? Is that something I can attempt on my own or would I need a pro to do it?

I think the only Guzzi folks around Richmond are Colonial motorsports in Colonial Heights and I'm not even sure about that.
 
Try and ounce or two of Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinder. Turn it over by hand to coat the cylinder and get oil to the rings and let is sit for a couple days. Then run the bike (It will smoke like hell until it burns out). It may free the rings, it may not but it is worth a try.
 
john zibell said:
Try and ounce or two of Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinder. Turn it over by hand to coat the cylinder and get oil to the rings and let is sit for a couple days. Then run the bike (It will smoke like hell until it burns out). It may free the rings, it may not but it is worth a try.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'll do it tonight then. MMO has worked for me in cars (as has seafoam) but I have yet to try it on a bike. Even with the Nikasil, the same principle applies huh? Pour it straight in to the cylinder, correct?
 
I used a little last night. Getting it into the cylinder was difficult as the plug hole is straight out and every attempt to add it resulted in it dribbling out. I did get enough in though and turned the motor over a couple of times. I added a small amount to the oil and the rest in the gas tank, but not before I emptied the right side float bowl and filled it with the stuff.

This morning...loads of smoke as anticipated. My wife told me that the bike smoked much less this morning as she drove behind me. I'll do it again Thursday night as I have to drive to work Friday (I can't wear my court attire on a bike and still smell good for the judge) meaning the bike can sit and marinate for a couple of days.
 
No smoke this morning at all. The temperature out was mid 60's and I left a little earlier than usual. I've checked my oil several times and, with 1000 miles on this change, it's still nice and amber colored. I've read that a zinc additive might help the rings (if that's indeed the issue).

As the bike has smoked more since my valve adjustment, could it not be a seal or even a valve? I suppose that with no noticeable loss of power, I don't have a burned valve.
 
shabba said:
No smoke this morning at all. The temperature out was mid 60's and I left a little earlier than usual. I've checked my oil several times and, with 1000 miles on this change, it's still nice and amber colored. I've read that a zinc additive might help the rings (if that's indeed the issue).

As the bike has smoked more since my valve adjustment, could it not be a seal or even a valve? I suppose that with no noticeable loss of power, I don't have a burned valve.
Click to expand...


Valve guides do tend to wear, which is why K-lines are a popular product to use when rebuilding heads. I believe that zinc is primarily for cam/follower protection and not for rings. If she isn't smoking now, great, ride it.
 
john zibell said:
shabba said:
No smoke this morning at all. The temperature out was mid 60's and I left a little earlier than usual. I've checked my oil several times and, with 1000 miles on this change, it's still nice and amber colored. I've read that a zinc additive might help the rings (if that's indeed the issue).

As the bike has smoked more since my valve adjustment, could it not be a seal or even a valve? I suppose that with no noticeable loss of power, I don't have a burned valve.
Click to expand...


Valve guides do tend to wear, which is why K-lines are a popular product to use when rebuilding heads. I believe that zinc is primarily for cam/follower protection and not for rings. If she isn't smoking now, great, ride it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm definitely riding it all I can. I changed the oil back on 8/4 and I've done a little over a thousand miles since. It's using very little. I checked it Tuesday and only needed to add a quarter of a quart. That isn't too bad considering the smoking and the leaks I have.

I'll be ordering a new tach cable today. MG cycle? Any other suggestions for where to get it from?
 
I've ordered a new cable from MG Cycle as well as two new float needles and a oil pan gasket. Much less $$ than I thought it would be.

The tach gear, were mine to be bad and need replacing, runs almost 60 bucks. I'm hoping mine is ok.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top