• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Stelvio 2012 NTX

scottmastrocinque said:
Okay, I am no professional with a camera, but what the hell, here goes.

PICS OF MY 2012 STELVIO NTX SHOWING VIRTUALLY EVERYTHING FOR THE PERSON WHO WANTS TO SEE ONE IN PERSON BUT CAN"T FIND ONE! :p

The first thing to go were the amazingly ugly stickers all over the tank! (Hair dryer + patience + WD-40 to remove glue)

Enjoy!

http://s1070.photobucket.com/albums/u487/Scott_Mastrocinque/The Beast/?albumview=slideshow

Thanks for the slideshow. You have saved me some orientation time at the dealer. As well, I have now clear idea where to install the 4" ABS tube tool box as described in one post on this site.
 
blakebird said:
screw and locknut is super easy to do, needs no replacement parts - but usually has to be done at 6k intervals.

shim and bucket has longer intervals, 12k-15k and up. More involved mechanically as you sometimes have to remove the cams to replace shims - and you need a collection of shims (unless you have a dealer who will swap - but there's a time factor there still)

I like both, have no preference either way.
I LOVED that my FJR went 30k and all were still in spec....or that my ZX-14 went 20k and they were still fine.

I also really like going out in the garage on a Saturday morning to a cool bike and do the screw & locknut thing.
It's fairly common they don't need much adjustment, but since I've gone to the trouble of getting in there....they will be spot on before I button it back up.

I fully agree with blakebird. I enjoy servicing/tuning my bike as much as I enjoy riding it. BTW, the screw and locknut might initially need a bit more attention, but after some 10 or 15k kms the clearance hardly changes at all. I did the valves religiously every 10k kms on my 2006 12GS and past some 20k kms, no adjustment was ever required (sold the bike at 46k kms).
 
Was looking at my front foot pegs today and noticed that they are dual pegs. THe rubber comes off to reveal off road pegs. Not sure I would use them but didn't recall seeing that in any of the manuals.

Of course I also noticed that they did not come with any clearance pegs all though there is a hole for them. Wonder what will scrap first????

Only problem so far is I noticed that the bottom of the windscreen has left 2 nice rub marks in the fairing. It touches the fairing when it is all the way up. Looks like they tightened it too much during the dealer prep. Will get that fixed at the first service. Anyone else notice this on theirs??

Also got some valve ticking but from what I read looks like they come loose from the factory. Lets see what happens after the 1000KM service.
 
Just reading about some gear shifting problems and gearbox clunk. Any new Stelvio owners got any input on this? :?:
 
Toadride said:
Just reading about some gear shifting problems and gearbox clunk. Any new Stelvio owners got any input on this? :?:

No unusual clung or shifting problems here (after 1000 kms). However the transmission has a bit of a whine, especially at lower gears, I am comparing here to my previous 1200GS. Hopefully replacing the gea roil with synthetic will help a bit.
 
Toadride said:
Just reading about some gear shifting problems and gearbox clunk. Any new Stelvio owners got any input on this? :?:

I keep trying to shift like I did on my airhead - which is much to slow for this fast revving engine. When I remember to shift like I'm on a modern bike, well, there arn't enough ooooo's in smooth
 
Luma46 said:
Hopefully replacing the gea roil with synthetic will help a bit.
I'll bet every fluid in that bike is synthetic from the factory.

At 1,000km it hasn't even had it's first service, these bikes break in as the miles roll up...they get quieter and smoother. You can feel it, one of the things I like about Guzzis is feeling them break in over time.
 
Toadride said:
Just reading about some gear shifting problems and gearbox clunk. Any new Stelvio owners got any input on this? :?:


I don't know what you guys are talking about. Mine is slick as wet ice, and the only sound is the unique sound of helical cut gears which sound different than straight cut gears.

Mine's as perfect a bike as I've ever owned. :D
 
From time to time when it is cold it takes a couple of tries to get into first from Neutral. Actually thought I had it in first at a light, let the clutch out, neutral light off..... nothing..... Had to pull the clutch and try it again. Only has 300KM but will bring it up at the 1000km service.
 
scottmastrocinque said:
and the only sound is the unique sound of helical cut gears which sound different than straight cut gears.

you shouldn't hear helical gut gears, gear whine comes from straight cut gears.

the whine on mine is so slight as to be virtually unnoticable.....it makes less of a whir than an ST1300

mileage:
I had a couple of tankfuls resulting in 43-45mpg, where much of the riding was open road.
The previous tank was 260 miles, 5.7 gallons.

This last tank was some open road and some commuting... 243 miles, 6.3 gallons with the light coming on at around 240 miles. First time I'd seen the light.
 
blakebird said:
scottmastrocinque said:
and the only sound is the unique sound of helical cut gears which sound different than straight cut gears.

you shouldn't hear helical gut gears, gear whine comes from straight cut gears.

the whine on mine is so slight as to be virtually unnoticable.....it makes less of a whir than an ST1300

Although helical cut gears are designed to be quieter, they are not silent and they do sound considerably different. Any owner of a modern 6 speed Harley knows this as the gearbox uses both types in the same gearbox. I offered it as a possible explanation without being there myself to hear it.

Like you, I too find the gearbox sound on my new 2012 NTX to be unnoticeable, but some people "hear stuff." There are many roads to Mecca...
 
my Stelvio 8V - EU MY2011 (32 l fuel tank) = US MY2012, makes no noises when changing gears nor at any other time. all gear changes are very smooth. Only from Neutral to 1st gear it always makes KLONK :mrgreen: .
 
Got to sit on mine yesterday. No test ride till they get check in hand. Did run he tho and the heads were quiet as Hell. No tappet noise. Also slid into first like butter. No clunks.
 
ferdi said:
my Stelvio 8V - EU MY2011 (32 l fuel tank) = US MY2012, makes no noises when changing gears nor at any other time. all gear changes are very smooth. Only from Neutral to 1st gear it always makes KLONK :mrgreen: .


Try preloading the shift lever with gentle pressure before pulling the clutch in. That may help!
 
Just returned from a 1000km "maiden voyage" on the NTX. Gotta say the highway part (thru the mountains) was a real pleasure. Motoring along at 120 - 140 kph, she just sang. But the cities were another matter. In traffic at low revs was just a pain. I really feel the bike is just plain not running right. This was with the Mistral can and I will be switching back to the stock later today to see if it helps. But, I have been thru this before when I jetted my Bandit and added Two Bros can. The mid and upper end turned into a rocket and the low end farted, jerked and burbled along. When I got the idle jets right it was reborn. In for first service on Monday and we'll see if they can map it up a bit. Otherwise, I'll be calling on you, Todd. I'm sure it won't be money wasted but it is more money I'd rater not spend.
FILE0040.jpg
 
I have noticed on mine the valve clearances are hyper critical more than any thing else I've owned take great care in getting them spot on so easy and quick to do engine must be cold make a Huge difference to low speed running
 
Todds ECU mod and PowerCommander/O2 sensor make a huge difference on not only low rpm running, but overall grunt/response. I am running the Mistral can on my 2010. In addition the proper fueling cools the bike. I consider it well worth the money, but.... u are right it all adds up! ;)
 
scottmastrocinque said:
Toadride said:
Just reading about some gear shifting problems and gearbox clunk. Any new Stelvio owners got any input on this? :?:


I don't know what you guys are talking about. Mine is slick as wet ice, and the only sound is the unique sound of helical cut gears which sound different than straight cut gears.

Mine's as perfect a bike as I've ever owned. :D

I have looked at the tranny gears in the parts manual and I do not see any helical cut gears, all straight, hence the whine. I might be mistaken thou...
 
Luma46 said:
I have looked at the tranny gears in the parts manual and I do not see any helical cut gears, all straight, hence the whine. I might be mistaken thou...

It's in both the owners manual and the service manual.

The gear on the main shaft (52 on 51) and the clutch shaft (21) are helical cut. The other gears are straight cut.

Any gear has a whine, straight or helical. The helical is quieter but still has a characteristic sound.

"What's your point?". I guess is my next question...
 
Put the stock can back on (what a beast!) and found that, altho the low end ruffness is still there, it is diminished. Prolly need a richer mapping for the Mistral.
 
Back
Top