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Stepper motor on/off kit

Discussion in 'GT Electrical' started by GT-Rx®, Aug 24, 2009.

  1. SMChris

    SMChris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I installed the Stepper motot kit last week and have had no issues. When I start the bike first thing in the morning with the switch set to use the stepper motor the idle is raised to between 1200 and 1500 rpm. everything seems to work as if the switch wasn't there. When you flip the switch and cut the air off to the stepper motor the idle almost instantly drops to a steady 1000 rpm. The idle is a little rough when the bike is cold and the stepper motor is cut out, but once warmed up runs great without it. It runs fine when cold while using the stepper motor.
     
  2. xenarchi

    xenarchi Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Mine showed up in the post on monday. I won't be able to install until after the winter. Thanks for the quick turn around time. Was here within 24 hours or so.
     
  3. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Thanks Chris, happy to hear it's working as supposed, and my pleasure Adam. Shout if you have any questions come Spring.

    Folks, I have some left for those interested. Order online HERE.
     
  4. rturo

    rturo Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Todd

    Just been reading SpaceClams battery thread and the link to dead batteries caused by the faulty indicator>Warning Triangle=Stepper cycling problem.

    Although I dont have the idle/popping symptoms your kit will remove this risk (as long as the idiot controlling it makes sure its off when parked! :roll: )

    Last question - On my Breva11 I would need to fit the (Norge) switch on my SatNav mount which will leave the back of the switch a little exposed to moisture - is this likelt to be an issue?

    Art
     
  5. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Art, my kit does not shut the motor off, it just controls the air-flow to it, so the motor would still cycle. While I can't claim my switch is completely waterproof, it is sealed both front and back. Should it ever fail, the flow to the motor would be off.
     
  6. Bisbonian

    Bisbonian Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Okay, slight issue.

    I installed the kit and now can't get the bike to idle at all. I removed the airbox so I could get to the valve and I get no sort of valve movement when I flip the switch back and forth. I've checked for a good ground and it's okay.

    If I hook the valve to the battery it works just fine.

    When is power supposed to go to the yellow wire? I have nothing there, key on or key off. I have power at two of the other wires going to the stepper motor but nothing at the yellow one. I've even tried checking for power with the engine cranking but have nothing. The only way I haven't checked for power is with the engine running since I have the tank off.

    What am I missing?

    I should add that the fuses are all good.

    Update:

    I've now found that with each cycle of the key the power shifts between the yellow wire and the one next to it. So now when I turn the key on one time I'll have power where I need it and I can feel the vacuum switch switching but the next time I turn the key on I get nothing. Has anyone run into this beside me? Does it made sense to keep it hooked up the way it is now or would it make more sense to find a switched power source that I know will work and just rewire?
     
  7. double.d

    double.d Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I fitted mine on the weekend, but i am not sure if it is working.
    I know it is fitted properly, and i know from past electrical experience that some of you won't believe me :) .
    I tried the blow/suck on the tube test, but i had the battery disconnected so that was futile.
    The bike started with a low 800rpm idle with the switch to the right, and flicking the switch did not seem to make any difference.
    When flicking the switch to the left with the throttle at a steady 2000rpm the idle drops for 4 seconds and then goes back to 2000rpm for 4 seconds and so on in a cycle.
    Next morning with the switch turned to the left the bike started as usual with a slightly higher idle.
    Flicking the switch while riding causes the motor to cut out for a split second but no real change to the running.
    It was 100degrees plus here on the weekend so no trouble with cold starts.

    So, based on this info can anyone tell me at which switch position i should start up before switching the stepper of once the motor is hot :?:
     
  8. Bisbonian

    Bisbonian Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    My guess is that the switch position depends upon which way you hook the wires to the vacuum switch.

    I wound up not tapping into the wire on the stepper motor on mine as it didn't have consistent power on any one wire. Instead I located a pigtail up under the tank that I believe may be for the factory optional GPS that has keyed power. It now works a treat and is consistent.

    I'm still interested to know if anyone else had the same issue with power at the stepper motor or if it's just something with my bike. I could duplicate my issue at will so I'm pretty comfortable with my work-around on it.

    Double-D, maybe you have a similar issue, the vacuum switch defaulted to closed for me so the bike would not idle at all cold. I didn't try cycling the key at that point but rather would just restart the bike after it died. With a properly energizing switch it is now quite obvious when the mode is changed.
     
  9. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Guys, the yellow wire in the Stepper motor on my Norge is always hot with the key on. The next wire in (red or pink) is one that will drop 12v when the ECU tells the stepper motor the bike is warm enough. This was verified with a test light numerous times after running the bike. Perhaps other bikes are different, just verify a constant/switched 12V source for the short jumper wire. The other wire of the harness needs a good ground, test with a DVM for continuity to the battery ground. I'll be watching.
     
  10. double.d

    double.d Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    Sorry Todd but i aint going back in there to check it out for a while yet. I spent 1hr trying to get the f@*&!%g fuel line unhooked from the tank (when i did the PCV install it came of first try) and in the end i had to take the injectors of still connected to the tank :evil:
    All that bending over did was agravate my back which led to a session of physio yesterday arvo :pinch:
    Seeing as though the bike is running ok i will
    a. leave it until next winter.
    b. have a look at it over the holidays if i get bored.
    c. wait till someone else with a Griso chimes in with their findings.
     
  11. SMChris

    SMChris Tuned and Synch'ed

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    I have it hooked up to my Griso per Todd's instructions. The valve has worked as advertised with every turn of the key.

    Chris
     
  12. Brian UK

    Brian UK GT Reference

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    If it's any help, I took my feed from the supply side of the rear brake light switch.
     
  13. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    Has anyone checked the vacuum balance with the stepper-motor operating and then isolated? I have and will post about it separately, but I'm interested to hear if anyone else has checked and their findings.
     
  14. Zapa

    Zapa Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    My mechanic balanced the vacuum with the stepper motor offline. That and idle. I might even have some of it in video.

    I have to guess it's an operation that has to be done for the bike to operate as smoothly as possible...
     
  15. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    Thanks Zapa

    From my findings I'd say that your mechanic is a wise man.
     
  16. GT-Rx®

    GT-Rx® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Graham, I haven't documented both yet, no... but since Zapa posted about his mechanic sync'ing with it blocked, I've been doing it that way personally, but easy for me with my kit. If you're going to post on it, it'll save me the time. TIA.
     
  17. GrahamNZ

    GrahamNZ High Miler

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    OK Todd. Here are my findings:

    With the stepper-motor isolated, the warmed engine idles at exactly 1000rpm according to the tacho, and about 1025rpm according to a VDSTS screen. As it’s summer here, the stepper-motor can be isolated after only a few minutes running from a cold start. Following a test ride I decided to see what hooking up to my vacuum manometer and VDSTS would show. It proved interesting.

    • Before isolating the stepper-motor the vacuum balance at 2500/3000rpm was very close, as it was at the usual slightly wavering idle of about 1150rpm. The TPS reading was 4.5° and the left airbleed screw only, was slightly open. All as when last tuned recently.
    • With the stepper-motor isolated the vacuum balance at 2500/3000rpm was unchanged but with the engine now idling much steadier at just under 1000rpm the vacuum balance was a fair way out! Clearly the idling vacuum imbalance was due to the uneven airbleed previously delivered by the stepper-motor and corrected by the airbleed screw adjustment.
    • Next I went through a normal tuning procedure but with the stepper-motor still isolated. No change to the main vacuum balance required. No change to the TPS setting required. More opening needed on the left airbleed screw to perfect the idling vacuum balance. Now the engine idled with a virtually perfect balance at 1000rpm on the tacho and 1025rpm on the VDSTS screen. Bringing the stepper-motor back into operation returned the usual slightly wavering 1150rpm idle speed and the vacuum imbalance worsened as expected. I left the airbleed setting to suit the isolated stepper-motor rather than the operating one, but cold idling seemed to be steadier despite this.

    Conclusions
    • It's a great idea to fit a stepper-motor isolating valve and to isolate the stepper-motor when vacuum balancing.
    • It produces a slightly slower but much more even idle.
    • Throttle response off a closed throttle is a bit sweeter probably because the stepper-motor is no longer influencing things when the throttle is closed.
    • It doesn’t matter if you forget to close the isolating valve as the engine will function normally.
    • If you do forget to open the isolating valve when parking, the engine will be hard to start from cold.
    • If isolating the stepper-motor and fine tuning the idling vacuum balance produces a 1000rpm idle on the tacho it’s probably a sign that the “sacred screw” is at the factory-setting position. If that’s true, it’s probably a good way to reset an altered sacred screw to produce a 1000rpm idle and then do a TPS reset.
     
  18. draidt

    draidt GT Reference GT Contributor

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    As usual Graham,Very good information and well written, Thanks !

    I will get to balancing my throttle bodies as soon as it stops raining here and I can get in a long enough ride to get the motor warmed up properly, It will be interesting to see what I get as with the PCV and AutoTune the motor definetly runs cooler.
     
  19. Martin

    Martin Tuned and Synch'ed

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    Steppermotorkit fits very well and easy, while having the stepbystep
    manual on my netbook. Pulling out the airbox properly was almost the hardest
    part of it. . . now just wait for good weather to test it on the road.
     
  20. Zapa

    Zapa Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Thanks Graham. That perfectly fits my perception of the procedure Julio did here. My idle with the bike still cold -SM off- (warm enough not to stall) is slightly below 1000rpm. It stops steady at ~1000rpm after a proper warm up.
     

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