Brian UK
GT Reference
Why not a thermostatic switch fixed to the cylender head? Much shorter wiring runs, and simpler operation.
-
Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
-
There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
-
Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
-
Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.
stepper motor
- Thread starter samann
- Start date
I'm tempted to say that changes that can be heard are 'real' (significant), whereas those only visible on a digital read-out are probably less than 5% (around 50tpm) and thus rather insignificant. No idea to what extent a (hand-assembled) V-twin can have an idle that's constant to the rpm (and to what extent that's actually a requirement).
GrahamNZ
High Miler
RJVB
Agreed. Theory is all very well but results are incontrovertable. I'm impressed by the reports of members who've simply blocked off the air path either permanently or as wanted. The latter would be my preference.
Graham
Agreed. Theory is all very well but results are incontrovertable. I'm impressed by the reports of members who've simply blocked off the air path either permanently or as wanted. The latter would be my preference.
Graham
Brian UK wrote:
The sensor and switch I intend to use are pretty fail-safe, and if you're digging all the way in to get the stepper motor anyway, you're 90% there to do the job quickly and efficiently.
The old fast idle "lever on the bar" (when it worked properly) did the trick nicely. This would be an electronic variant of that... plus, I'm betting affixing an effective sensor to the head could become messy/complicated or possibly even fall off or fail, unless, one wanted to dig into the current OEM head temp sensor, which opens an all-new can of proverbial worms. Yes?
The sensor and switch I intend to use are pretty fail-safe, and if you're digging all the way in to get the stepper motor anyway, you're 90% there to do the job quickly and efficiently.
Brian UK
GT Reference
RacerX wrote:
Fair enough. Certainly trying to use the existing head temp sensor would really open the proverbial can.
WayneOrwig
GT Reference
Has anyone tried to plug it with a carb jet or some such, so it still has a little bit of functionality? Just limit it so it can't go overboard.
Wayne Orwig wrote:
Wayne,
That was listed on the old forum. He inserted a smaller diameter tube into the existing hose. He reported that it worked well.
Using a jet is a good idea, now we can discuss jet size for the stepper motor:laugh:
Wayne,
That was listed on the old forum. He inserted a smaller diameter tube into the existing hose. He reported that it worked well.
Using a jet is a good idea, now we can discuss jet size for the stepper motor:laugh:
I would imagine that with a valve like I have you could adjust it to allow only a small amount of air to the stepper motor, but it works better to turn it on and off. There is no good reason to let it have ANY air once the motor is warm. Cars use their "stepper motors" all the time becuase they have accesories like AC that cut on and off changing the load on the motor. On a bike the load at idle is pretty steady once warmed up so a fixed idle works fine. So once warmed all the stepper motor can do is mess things up.
All you need to do is find one of the V11 Sport owners that's changing from the 12v petcock to a manual one and talk him into contributing to the continuing Guzzi experiement!!! All you would need then would be some wiring and a thermostatic switch and whatever magic plumbing arrangement gets the petcock wired in. If you can't get the valve for free though, you might as well go with whatever Todd works up.
Spaceclam
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Here's my experience with the stepper.
My griso has always popped a lot. Still does. It also used to surge to 3k rpm sitting at a stop light.
When i disconnected the stepper motor, a couple things were immediately apparent.
1, I had to hold the throttle open to kick it over, but after that it idled just fine.
2, it stopped the popping completely, for about 20 miles. Then the Ecu noticed the mixture was better (due to less air leaking by) and went ahead and "fixed" it so it was just as lean as it was before. HOWEVER, it pops less because when you roll off the throttle and you have that quick spike in vacuum pressure, it doesnt suck massive amounts of air through the leak anymore, resulting in less popping on decel. I suppose the ECU hasnt corrected for this (and returned the popping to normal) because the explosion of gas inside the pipes is giving the 02 sensor some bizzare reading and it's ignoring it. or perhaps the closed loop response is too slow.
3, the engine just plain old runs better. no more idle surging.
My griso has always popped a lot. Still does. It also used to surge to 3k rpm sitting at a stop light.
When i disconnected the stepper motor, a couple things were immediately apparent.
1, I had to hold the throttle open to kick it over, but after that it idled just fine.
2, it stopped the popping completely, for about 20 miles. Then the Ecu noticed the mixture was better (due to less air leaking by) and went ahead and "fixed" it so it was just as lean as it was before. HOWEVER, it pops less because when you roll off the throttle and you have that quick spike in vacuum pressure, it doesnt suck massive amounts of air through the leak anymore, resulting in less popping on decel. I suppose the ECU hasnt corrected for this (and returned the popping to normal) because the explosion of gas inside the pipes is giving the 02 sensor some bizzare reading and it's ignoring it. or perhaps the closed loop response is too slow.
3, the engine just plain old runs better. no more idle surging.
Zapa wrote:
The stepper motor inlet tube has to be plugged in order for the air-flow to stop, is this what you did clam? Otherwise, you will just loose your high idle, and all else will remain the same.
I diverted all of my time/focus on the ECU, but I have all the parts sitting here to test still. Hope to do so very soon.
The stepper motor inlet tube has to be plugged in order for the air-flow to stop, is this what you did clam? Otherwise, you will just loose your high idle, and all else will remain the same.