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Torque Spec on 2008 Norge - Hex Screw Bottom of Fork

mpk

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 6, 2018
Messages
26
Location
Richmond, VA
Hey Forum,

I noticed that the two small hex screws at the bottom of my fork on the right hand side are loose (likely because my dealer did not tighten them after replacing a tire!?!).

Does anyone have the torque spec on these? And do you recommend locktight? It freaked me out to see that these were loose!

I believe they are:
Part number:
GU98680340
Description:
HEX SOCKET SCREW M6X40

Thanks!

MPK
 

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Good morning from up the road.

While not quite up to some of the knee-slapping humor of some instructions that come with Chinesium items I order, the Italian versions can be, if not as hilarious, equally mysterious and misleading.

Aside from the classic "pillion monkey" in the owners' manuals, I first encountered this when reinstalling a fuel pump in my 2007 Norge. Because of odd parts descriptions, it first seemed that the specs called for 25 Nm for tuel pump flange to tank retainer!. Yikes!

Of course, I should not mock, as my own grasp of other languages is sad indeed.

IMO, John Zibell here has the right answer, i.e., refer to torque values in the "Service Station Manuals" (!), but rely on "wrench art" to get it right. I may be caveman-level artist compared to the Michelangelo that John, Todd, and others here may be, but I am getting there.

WRT confusing tech guidance, I think that the term "Fork Hubs Closing" at CHAR-15 in the Front Suspension section for torque values refers to what I think most of us call fork "pinch bolts." If so, the recommended 10Nm sounds about right, tho I think one need not go that far.

As you may already know, the big concern with over-tightening these fasteners is fracturing the $tanchion$ themselves! Haven't, thankfully, BTDT, but others have.

I tighten them enough to reinstall the axle to the front wheel -- which is about the only time I mess with them -- then loosen them, a bit, lower the wheel to the ground, bounce the front forks a bit to settle everything, then retighten to spec (or art).

Best from the top of the Old Dominion,

Bill
 
Those Allen screws merely pinch the axle in the lower fork. It is a good ideal to remove them and coat with anti seize. I've seen them corroded in place and had to drill them out. With that coating, the torque specification changes and wrench art comes into play. They just need to be snug to pinch the axle. As Pete Roper would say just enough and don't tighten until you fart. That tight and you are asking for trouble.
 
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