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Trans shifting

motobob

motobob

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
105
Location
burnaby
I have just purchased a new 2008 Norge and I am having some issues with first gear to be specific. Sometimes it just snicks into gear and other times its a big clunk, is something amiss or not properly set up. All other gears seem to up shift and down shift just fine.
Bob
 
I've got an old 05 Breva, and mine does the same.
I've changed the gear oil to a semi synthetic which helped a little, but its just the nature of the beast i'm afraid, after a while you won't notice it.
 
Hold in the clutch lever for a second or two before hitting the gear lever. This gives the transmission internals a chance to stop moving before you put it into first gear.
 
You'll notice improvement as it breaks in. Mine smoothed out considerably for all shifts after 5K miles. Be sure to change the trans and rear oil at the first service (600 miles). After I changed it again at 6K miles, it felt even smoother. I use BelRay 85W90.
 
As stated above, the first 5k can be a little strange (clunky). It is also possible that your throttle cables may be out of adjustment creating play in the twist grip and that pesky clunk, jerk feeling. I enjoyed this myself for a while

Below are instructions from Graham that was a big help to me to clear up that pesky jerky/clunky feeling.

Brian

"Here is the throttle cable adjustment method again.

The adjusters are under flexible sleeves near the throttle twistgrip drum. Use 10mm open ended spanners.
Back off the pull-to-close cable - the bottom/rear one - so that there is tangible freeplay.
With the engine idling and the steering straight ahead, adjust the pull-to-open cable - the top/front one - so that there is no tangible slack.
Turn the steering to full lock in both directions and if the engine speeds up, back off the pull cable just enough so that normal idling is resumed.
Adjust the pull-to-close cable until there is just slight tangible slack at full lock in both directions."

QED
Graham
 
OK. Thanks .I need to clarify what I meant. I wasn't very clear. I meant the differences in the shifting happened when I was at a stand still, stopped at lights etc. then shifting down into first from neutral to get started.
Bob
 
Bob

Yes that is a strange one. From a cold start, first is usually engaged completely silently - often the lever needs to be held down as the clutch is starting to be released for the gear to engage. It's as if the clutch frees too completely and the gears don't move enough to engage readily. When hot, the opposite seems to happen and the clutch drags slightly making gear engagement a bit of a clonk. I really can't explain why the difference should occur but it does. As has been suggested, holding the lever in for a few seconds and giving the throttle a blip at the same time should free the clutch enough for a silent gear engagement.

Many bikes give a clonk as first is engaged when stationary. MV Agustas and Buells are very bad at that. BMW twins are the opposite.

Graham
 
motobob wrote:
OK. Thanks .I need to clarify what I meant. I wasn't very clear. I meant the differences in the shifting happened when I was at a stand still, stopped at lights etc. then shifting down into first from neutral to get started.
Bob
Click to expand...
See my post above. I thought that's what you meant. The hotter the motor is the longer the clutch will need to be held in before shifting it into first, to avoid the clunk. Most likely has to do with hot trans oil being thinner and cold oil being thicker.
 
Thanks guys. The hot and cold thing makes sense. I rode the bike yesterday and it was much better or maybe I'm getting better. It may be me just having to get used to the hydraulic clutch and such. I just sold my buell s3t and yes it did clunk a bit now that you mention it. i just got used to it I guess. I got tired of waiting for Buell to do something in the sport touring arena espescially since they got that new rotax motor.
Bob
 
Well, 40,000km later I'm still waiting so I wouldn't hold your breath that distance will lend much enchantment.

The oil viscosity theory sounds about right to me so using an oil in the gearbox which retains viscosity as constant as possible should be the way to go. I've been using Red Line Lightweight synthetic for some time - it meets the viscosity range Guzzi calls for but with a cold flow viscosity equal to SAE 30. I know that Kiwi Dave uses Red Line Heavyweight. So, Dave, how are you faring selecting first from a standstill when everything is really hot?

Graham
 
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