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usd fork conversion for lm3

D

davidguzzi

Just got it firing!
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Messages
8
I'm wondering if anyone knows if a usd fork conversion can be done on a lm3?
 
I can't see why not if the fork length & steering stem size are compatible. A mate of mine certainly had USDs on his LM4. I think they came off a Yamaha & fitted without too much hassle or re-engineering, but he did use the Yamaha wheel & brakes as well.
 
When I converted my Daytona to USD forks, I used GSXR 1000 forks which are available cheap, all I had to do was replace the steering head bearings with ones that had a larger center hole. The lengths were all pretty close, just minor spacer issues. I did have to give up the steering lock as it did not line up with the key. And I had to make new steering stops.
But all in all it was not that hard. I used the wheel and brakes from the donor bike as well, both of which were an improvement.
 
I have GSXR750 forks in my LM3. I found that cheap aftermarket bearings from I believe an DRZ400 fitted the steering stem and Guzzi frame. Only the GSXR steering stem is longer than the Guzzi steering head so so the top bearing can not slide far enough down. I pressed the steering stem out of the bottom triple clamp and turned down the stem on a lathe so the top bearing could slide further down. Now the top triple clamp sits and inch or so higher than original, but I solved that with a spacer. Maybe other type of forks have better matching steering stems though.
Be aware that most modern forks have triple clamps with only 30mm offset, compared to Guzzi's 65mm. This results in the forks hitting the tank sooner, reduced steering lock, and increased trail (130mm or so, compared to 90-100mm on most bikes) when combined with a 17" wheel. In reality this makes a very stabil bike that steers rather slow. I just live with it until I find time to make 45mm offset triples. Rumour goes that some Triumphs have those triple trees so maybe a complete front end of a Triumph is that way to go? Problem is that you still have more weight on the rear wheel than the front, so another option is to cut the steering head off the frame and weld it back under a 66 degree angle like most modern bikes. Now you have more weight on the front wheel which gives you a good steering bike with good stability. Details about this here: http://dynotec.de/ and click on Classic Le Mans 2010.
Cheers, JR
 
I have just completed this mod on my 1979 SP1000.

I used:
- the forks from a 2005 Yamaha YZF-R1 (length is perfect)
- the brake callipers from the same bike (modified for the smaller Guzzi discs' diameter)
- the 850 LeMans III front wheel (narrow hub/no spacers) and discs
- custom-made yokes with Guzzi's standard 65mm offset
- I retained the original SP1000 hand-brake and foot-brake master cylinders and the integral brake set-up.
- I custom-made some swan-neck clip-ons
- I custom-made fairing mountings for the stock SP1000 fairing (these came out grotty because I'm no welder, but they're well hidden...)
- I have made the Guzzi front wheel axle fit using sleeves and spacers, but I'll be getting & turning down a R1 axle to fit.
EDIT:
- I used the Guzzi steering stem and pressed that into the custom (lower) fork yoke; that simplified the whole length & bearing issue.
- For many years my headlight has been mounted in the fairing, not on the forks, so that is a non-issue.
- Many years ago I rewired my bike so that most of the electrics are under the fairing; now my fusebox is mounted to the underside of the upper yoke, and the ignition relay, headlight dim and headlight bright relays are mounted on top of the upper yoke, under the instruments.
-The fairing pops off with three easily accessible 6mm screws.

I've put some photos up on photobucket. You can check them out here:
http://s961.photobucket.com/albums/...i SP 1000/?track=share_email_album_view_click


Regards
Thomas
 
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