V11 suspension settings advice please

[Coully]

Hi, as it's raining, I thought I would have a look at the multi adjustable suspension on my v11. It's the 'cooking' model with the marzocchi Suspension. The book says the blue rotating ring nut on the back end of the shock is for rebound and has 34 positions. I can only count 17 or 18 clicks from fully open to fully closed turning it by hand. Can it be closed further using grips or should it not be forced?
In addition, the compression damping is performed with an external reservoir which has 43 positions which seems about right as I can count around 37. Another thing that is confusing me is that the handbook says standard settings for the rebound ring nut is 20 snaps from full closed, the external compression knob 10 snaps from fully closed. Anyone know what it means by fully closed? Is that as far as + will go or as far backed off as it will go? It's this rebound ring nut that's bothering me as standard setting being 20 snaps from closed but i can only move it 17 in total. All wisdom and experience will be appreciated

 

[GTM®]

Cooking model? What year is it?
Start with; http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_se ... guzzi.html -- and let us know. I personally composed settings for the Ohlins equipped Scura, but they do not apply.

 

[Coully]

Thank you for the reply. Perhaps it's a UK English thing but I tend to use 'cooking' when meaning standard or common. My v11 is the le mans model and year of manufacture was 2003.
The Rossa corsas and other special models of the v11 sport were fitted with ohlins I believe but on my standard UK model has marzocchi forks and I assume rear shock?

I do not ride particularly quickly and on my 40 mile round trip to work would happily go for comfort.
However I do appreciate a machine that will corner in a stable fashion.

As it is, I am reasonably happy with the suspension as it is, far better than the Suzuki sv650 I had prior for example.

Main concern is the blue ring nut at the bottom of the rear shock. The book says it should have 34 positions.
I can only count 17 clicks from all the way clockwise to all the way anticlockwise so I am wondering if that might indicate a fault or perhaps it needs more than finger force to turn it further in? I do not want to damage anything by turing it with a set of grip pliers so thought i would ask the forums advice? Turning it anticlockwise it eventually becomes loose and the clicks stop so I assume that's it at it's least amount of rebound.
A

 

[GTM®]

Yes, sorry... didn't know the vernacularism.

The adjuster should not need much force beyond fingers... so perhaps something is amiss. If you want to spend money to investigate, it would be worth having a specialist rebuild/re-valve the shock and forks.

Since you say it should have 34 clicks, it looks like the article above says 34 clicks out, meaning full soft, so I'd recommend backing off until no clicks, then turning until the first one. Rebound should be 7 clicks out from max.

Report back on how that works for you.

Another trick I like to do on the Spine frames, is to slide the forks up into the triple trees ~.625"/15.87mm.

 

[Coully]

thanks again for the advice.
please excuse my lack of knowledge on the subject, but could you explain 'triple trees' a bit more please?
I assume you are referring to dropping the yokes down the forks a bit to reduce the rake slightly and quicken the steering? If so, to be honest, I quite like the turn in as it is. I always counter steer by pushing the inside bar away from me and find the V11 quite easy to turn doing that. It does not need much force compared to other bikes I have had, i.e. I recall my Suzuki SV650 was very reluctant to turn in.

I have not experimented much with suspension to date but am becoming interested now that I have a bit more time to tinker. I am a telecomms engineer to trade so that knowledge doe not help much with mechanicals!!

Do you have a good idea of how the rebound damping valve works on this rear shock? Does it open and close a valve that restricts oil flow ? I believe that the remote compression adjuster is operated by gas. It does have a valve on it, looks like a regular tyre valve, which I assume would be for recharging with nitrogen, or perhaps just air?

 

[Coully]

Update,

I have backed off all the settings, compression and rebound. I know have a very comfortable ride with the bike soaking up all bumps and potholes. However it is a bit like a pogo stick as the suspension returns too quicklyand it is now far too bouncy.

I am reapplying the rebound a couple of clicks at a time on the forks and the shock and I think I have it nearly right now. For me, 5th 8 ins and weighing Less than 80 kilos, I think the factory settings for compression are too hard.

I considered measuring the sag to see if the preload needs backed off but I like the speed of the steering so don't see the need to lower the rear ride height So I think I will leave as is.

If I do need to take a pillion and/or luggage I would look at the sag then and also wind the compression up a few clicks.

 

[GuzziMoto]

Both adjusters work by opening or closing valves that restrict oil flow.
The "air fitting" is for pressurizing a bladder which helps reduce oil foaming in the shock. The pressure does not directly impact the valving but it does effect the stiffness of the shock indirectly.
The approach of adjusting the valving for what works for you is the correct one. But increasing your knowledge of how the suspension works will improve the results you are able to achieve. One common misconception is that preload effects spring rate or stiffness of the suspension. Unless you adjust the preload so high that there is no sag, or have replaced the springs with "progressive" springs, it does not. It adjusts ride height which can effect the "feel" of the suspension but often opposite of what you would think. Example, too little preload can result in a bike that rides too low in the stroke and bottoms often making it feel too stiff. But the fix for the stiff feel would be to add preload and raise the ride height and increase the available suspension travel.
Many people with V11's do as Todd mentioned and lower the front end to increase the rake and reduce the trail. My wifes V11 (a red frame 2000 model) does best for her with only the fork caps sticking up above the clamps (nearly flush). It gives her a bike that turns easily yet is stable enough (thanks to the higher trail of a stock front height) that she runs it with out the steering damper which in turn lightens the steering effort. But as with suspension settings, people should set their bikes up to what works for them and I am sure that to some her bike would be too aggressive. My Daytona has shorter forks that increase the rake but it runs forks with reduced offset that increases the trail back to a proper amount. So it also runs great with out a steering damper. But again, not everybody would like the aggressive steering of it.
Best of luck to you. Persevere with your set up and you will end up with a bike that suits you.

 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Cooking model? What year is it?
Start with; http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_se ... guzzi.html -- and let us know. I personally composed settings for the Ohlins equipped Scura, but they do not apply.

Hi, Todd.. I'm coming out to California in December to visit my Scura.. er.. grandkids, :whistle: and was playing with suspension settings the last time I was out. I'd be *really* interested is finding out what your findings were. B)

 

[rbt1548]

The book says the blue rotating ring nut on the back end of the shock is for rebound and has 34 positions. I can only count 17 or 18 clicks from fully open to fully closed turning it by hand.

I had a look at mine last night and all the adjusters were as mentioned in owners handbook except the knurled adjuster on the rear shock when turning out,(anti clockwise), from fully turned in, (clockwise), only clicks 9 times, it will rotate out easily a further few turns by finger pressure only.
Has anybody and idea why only the 9 clicks and not the 34 mentioned in the owners manual?, it's a 2007, (late reg. 2004), Le Mans 6600mls on clock. Also what would then be the standard setting?
Any advice appreciated
Thanks
Robert