For early V35~V65 up to '94 Nevada 750 (sans '94 750 Police).
The trick is in the brown wire. It leads from the right handlebar to the relay socket under the side cover at connector 30/51. From there, it is joined by a small brown jumper wire from connector 30/51 over to connector 86. Disconnect the relay from the plastic relay socket. Now look at the receiving side of the relay socket. Each terminal has a slot with a small notch. Reach into this notch with a small jeweler's screwdriver (See picture below). Inside is a little tang on the female spade connector. You need to flatten this tang so that you can pull the wire and spade connector out from the back of the relay socket. We need to do this to swap the position of the two terminals within the relay socket.
Once you have both of the brown wire terminals removed from 30/51 and 86, then cut only the short BROWN loop wire as close as possible to where it is joined with the main harness BROWN wire in the 30/51 terminal. You might wish to put a dab of protective sealant over the remaining bare wire stub protruding at the 30/51 terminal
Use your screwdriver to bend out and restore the little tang on the back of each female terminal so that it acts as a snap lock when you insert it back into the relay socket (See pic below). Now, reinsert the two terminals into the connector block BUT swap them so that the harness wire from the handlebar now goes directly into 86 and the shorter, two-inch wire goes into 30/51.
Now manufacture a short red wire. Perhaps 16 gauge and ten inches long with a ring terminal at the battery end, an in-line automotive fuse spliced into the middle and a straight crimp connector at the business end. Splice this new jumper directly to the two-inch brown wire dangling from the 30/51 position and install the ring terminal directly on your battery positive post.
You are all done. Now, the 86 terminal only carries the load of the little relay electromagnet coil. The 30/51 terminal (which gets energized when the relay closes) has a new, fat, short routing directly from the battery, through the relay contacts to the starter solenoid. No more CLICK, CLICK when you hit the starter, just V-rooooom.
Schematic:
Patrick Hayes
Fremont, CA
pehayes<at>comcast.net
The trick is in the brown wire. It leads from the right handlebar to the relay socket under the side cover at connector 30/51. From there, it is joined by a small brown jumper wire from connector 30/51 over to connector 86. Disconnect the relay from the plastic relay socket. Now look at the receiving side of the relay socket. Each terminal has a slot with a small notch. Reach into this notch with a small jeweler's screwdriver (See picture below). Inside is a little tang on the female spade connector. You need to flatten this tang so that you can pull the wire and spade connector out from the back of the relay socket. We need to do this to swap the position of the two terminals within the relay socket.
Once you have both of the brown wire terminals removed from 30/51 and 86, then cut only the short BROWN loop wire as close as possible to where it is joined with the main harness BROWN wire in the 30/51 terminal. You might wish to put a dab of protective sealant over the remaining bare wire stub protruding at the 30/51 terminal
Use your screwdriver to bend out and restore the little tang on the back of each female terminal so that it acts as a snap lock when you insert it back into the relay socket (See pic below). Now, reinsert the two terminals into the connector block BUT swap them so that the harness wire from the handlebar now goes directly into 86 and the shorter, two-inch wire goes into 30/51.
Now manufacture a short red wire. Perhaps 16 gauge and ten inches long with a ring terminal at the battery end, an in-line automotive fuse spliced into the middle and a straight crimp connector at the business end. Splice this new jumper directly to the two-inch brown wire dangling from the 30/51 position and install the ring terminal directly on your battery positive post.
You are all done. Now, the 86 terminal only carries the load of the little relay electromagnet coil. The 30/51 terminal (which gets energized when the relay closes) has a new, fat, short routing directly from the battery, through the relay contacts to the starter solenoid. No more CLICK, CLICK when you hit the starter, just V-rooooom.
Schematic:
Patrick Hayes
Fremont, CA
pehayes<at>comcast.net
