• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V50 aluminium tapered bearing steering cups

curci

Just got it firing!
Joined
Oct 17, 2018
Messages
3
Location
Slovenia
Hi,

I am in process of converting my steering from loose ball bearing into tapered bearing (was very notchy). In process I relived that I have to make steering cups where races of 30205 bearing will be inserted.

1. What is your opinion of aluminium as material instead of steel. Gentleman who will make them for me his opinion is that aluminium will handle stress without problem. Opinion well apreciated.

2. In order to retain original head stem 240mm i would have to use only lock nut without adjusting nut bellow (KTM have same set-up with only lock nut). What is your opinion/reservation in this set-up.

Br

Uros
 
Since I believe you are using the aluminum to insert the steel bearing race into I think that sounds OK. I take it you can't find tapered bearings that are the right size?
For the stem nut, while I think that will work I would rather use something that will lock better. I have seen some that use a nut that clamps down on the threads to lock it. Or two nuts that are half thick.
While I would not consider either of the two solutions you have as ideal, I also don't think either solution is unworkable.
Good luck,
 
Hi Guzzimoto,

Thank you for your prompt reply really appreciated. I think that best solution would be that i shim adjusting nut to 5mm and locking nut -5mm. By this I will have at least 10mm of thread for locking nut to be in place and it will be more secure. All tapered bearing with ID 25mm is at least 15mm high so quite higher than original setup. Stein- Dinse offers tapered bearing kit only for lower side bearing while retaining original setup (loose balls) on upper side. What is your opinion of conversion from loose balls to tapered bearing?

Br

Uros
 
I have converted a few bikes back in the day, and I like the results. Tapered bearings, as long as they are properly preloaded / tightened, are smoother than ball bearings seem to be. It might be all in my head but I felt like the steering was better with the tapered bearings.
I currently have an 87 Lario, I wonder what it has. I figure ball bearings are stock, but I am the second owner and the first owner spent a fair bit of money on upgrades to it (no more points, electronic ignition for example). So it may have had new bearings installed.
I will be curious to hear how it goes for you.
 
I will do that. I have Dyna waiting to be installed before season. Otherwise is just love my Monza believe or not I like taking her out more than Ducati SS. It is just so nimble and fun.

Br

Uros
 
Yes, I agree. The Lario has a fun, nimble, feel that makes it a lot of fun to ride. I de-linked the brakes, and that improved braking feel for me. I think linked brakes are good for some people but I am an old racer guy and like my brakes separated.
I wish it had 17" wheels, but mainly because it is getting hard to find good 16" tires in the right sizes.
 
Back
Top