• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V50 Cluitch sticking

jianelli

jianelli

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
45
Location
Lincolnville, ME
My V50 with 7k has been sitting so long (before I got it) the clutch won't disengage with the hand lever. My mechanic said I could maybe free it by riding it, but I wonder how hard it would be to replace the clutch myself. I have not done this job but am fairly handy. Anyone care to advise on degree of difficulty or odds that I would screw it up?
Thanks,
John
 
Some special tools make the job easier, but with only 7K on the bike, I'd try to free the clutch first. You have nothing to loose. I wouldn't do it by riding the bike. Place the bike on the center stand and support it so the back wheel cannot make contact when you sit on the bike. Sit on the bike, place it in gear then start the bike. Squeeze in the clutch lever and apply the rear brake. You may want to try this a couple times to get it to free up. If she doesn't, you haven't lost anything and will need to go in and free the clutch manually, or replace it. You can get parts and service manuals for the V50 here http://guzzitek.org/gb/cadres_gb.htm Good luck,
 
Thanks,
I have actually tried what you suggest using the center stand, and the engine mostly dies from the braking (4 of 5 times). So I was thinking I should get it sorted out properly and take it apart. What specialty tools would I need? It is a 1978 V 50...
John
 
jianelli said:
Thanks,
I have actually tried what you suggest using the center stand, and the engine mostly dies from the braking (4 of 5 times). So I was thinking I should get it sorted out properly and take it apart. What specialty tools would I need? It is a 1978 V 50...
John
Click to expand...

Pretty much nothing. The small block is dead simple to do a clutch job on..
 
The special tool I would want to have for this job is 19 90 65 00. It is for assembly and centering of the clutch assembly. It makes the job so much easier.
 
So I have the manual and it shows the engine out of the bike.
I need something more elaborate than: "Step one: Remove Engine" if you know what I mean. Does anyone know of a link that would give me a more detailed step by step? Pictures are always nice too...
Thanks for any help with this..
John
 
The V50 is just a mini Tonti. You should be able to just crab the frame if you have a lift table with wheel vice or a bike chock. Then it is support the rear of the frame, remove the rear wheel, swing arm, split the frame and lower the back of the lower frame to remove the transmission. Once the transmission is out, you are staring at the clutch/flywheel assembly.
 
It may be worth while identifying which parts are stuck together, ie.
Is it the clutch actuating mechanism, from the cable to the all the machanisms behind and passing thru the gearbox.

If it transpires that you need to disassemble and replace the clutch, then there would be nothing to lose by spraying heaps of WD40 in there to free things up.

John, is there an access point for this? (just thinking out loud)
If it works I would let the bike idle in neutral for a long time to dry out the WD40 by getting it hot.
Nothing to lose, everything to gain (even if you have to drill an access hole in the bell housing)
 
jianelli said:
My V50 with 7k has been sitting so long (before I got it) the clutch won't disengage with the hand lever. My mechanic said I could maybe free it by riding it, but I wonder how hard it would be to replace the clutch myself. I have not done this job but am fairly handy. Anyone care to advise on degree of difficulty or odds that I would screw it up?
Thanks,
John
Click to expand...

I have just completed a clutch replacement on my 750 Breva, which is similar. There are a couple of on line guides to gearbox removal that will help if you need to go that far. It should at least give you some idea of what you are in for. Some guidance here: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/pdf/gearbox-repair-breva-750-nick-webb.pdf.

It is a big job. You need some way to support the engine and gearbox because you need to remove the lower rails and hence the centre stand to separate the gearbox. I used a stack of timber and wedges to hold it all steady and a "Workmate" portable bench to hold the top part of the frame (because I have one).

You will need a means of holding the flywheel while you undo the bolts that hold the clutch together. This is just a piece of steel with teeth cut on one side to match teh flywheel and holes to allow it to be bolted to the clutch housing.

You will probably need to obtain a tool to remove the nut from the front of the gearbox. This is to replace the little seal that goes around the clutch pushrod. Chances are, if it's all sticking there is some corrosion in there that will tear out the seal and cause oil to leak onto the clutch.

The tools you need for this part can be made if you have access to a welder. It consists of an old clutch centre welded into a socket wrench or similar to hold the splined shaft, and a hex spanner to hold the nut. I'm sure someone near you has an old small block clutch plate that would suit.

If all this seems too hard, you might be able to withdraw the pushrod from the back of the gearbox and clean it up but you'll probably ruin the seal in the process and have to take it all apart anyway...
 
ghezzi said:
It may be worth while identifying which parts are stuck together, ie.
Is it the clutch actuating mechanism, from the cable to the all the machanisms behind and passing thru the gearbox.

If it transpires that you need to disassemble and replace the clutch, then there would be nothing to lose by spraying heaps of WD40 in there to free things up.

John, is there an access point for this? (just thinking out loud)
If it works I would let the bike idle in neutral for a long time to dry out the WD40 by getting it hot.
Nothing to lose, everything to gain (even if you have to drill an access hole in the bell housing)
Click to expand...

There really isn't a way to get WD40 to the clutch, and if you did, it may free up, but the clutch would slip. I can't remember if there is a drain hole on the small block, but perhaps plugging that and flooding the clutch area mineral spirits might help (you could place it on the side stand, pour in in through the inspection hole, re-insert the plug) start it up and see if repeating the run it and try to get it to free up. I;d say it would be a low probability of success. If the clutch is that stuck, I would think the components would be compromised enough to warrant replacement.
 
Thanks to all, Great information. I think I will try and use the center stand & back brake and try a bit harder to free it up as described in an early post on this topic... I don't really have the time and space to tear into it right now anyway...
Thanks again
John
 
jianelli said:
So I have the manual and it shows the engine out of the bike.
I need something more elaborate than: "Step one: Remove Engine" if you know what I mean. Does anyone know of a link that would give me a more detailed step by step? Pictures are always nice too...
Thanks for any help with this..
John
Click to expand...

I did a tutorial on the Yahoo small block list. It should still be posted on there somewhere. It's much easier to get to the transmission than a Tonti big block. You make a stand to sit the pan of the engine on. Unhook cables, electric, etc. Then you can unhook the frame from the engine/transmission/rear drive and wheel, and roll the frame and front wheel off like a wheelbarrow. When I did it, it was my first time I've ever done it, and it took 2 hours to have it ready to dive in to.. including making the box.
022.jpg

021.jpg
 
Now see, that's the way I should have done it instead of starting at the wheel and working forward.

BTW, it must be a pain when small parts fall through that grating. Is that an inspection pit?
 
rossw said:
Now see, that's the way I should have done it instead of starting at the wheel and working forward.

BTW, it must be a pain when small parts fall through that grating. Is that an inspection pit?
Click to expand...

Yeah. When we built the house, my wife wanted a big window in the living room and a walk in closet. I wanted a grease pit and a urinal. :shock: :D
I try not to drop stuff.. but have a big piece of cardboard to put over it if necessary.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top