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V50 mk2 Running on 1 cylinder Please help please

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I do understand.

I genuinely am trying to help you. Relax, take a deep breath, and know that nothing will bring me greater satisfaction and joy, than if we can get you out of the weeds here. šŸ˜€šŸ‘ŒšŸ‘šŸ™

Contrary to Skivoā€™s claims, I am not voicing my frustration at new people (like you) and most certainly it isnā€™t ā€œcategoricalā€.

I tried the soft approach ā€œIā€™m sorry. I donā€™t mean to be rude or mean or harsh but seriouslyā€¦ā€ but that got nowhere at all.

You continued to ask for information which you yourself said you had in front of you! How could this be? If you had the information right there, then why would you be asking for that information? I found this perplexing.

Look, yes, I do this for a living. Hence, I listen very carefully to what people say so that I can fix their motorcycles for them as quickly and efficiently as I can which is precisely what I am trying to do here for you.

Again, contrary to Skivoā€™s claims, Iā€™m not ā€œabusingā€ you or anybody else here. There have been some ā€œCome to Jesusā€ moments, of which this is one, where I had to get the attention of the original poster because they were thrashing in the water like a drowning man. Then, the poster stopped, listened, followed my logic and instructions and miracle of miracle, the bike was fixed almost immediately.

Although heā€™s been here 2 years, I donā€™t believe you will find a single thread of Skivoā€™s here, (they are searchable if you click his username anyplace here) where he has invested any time in helping somebody diagnose and repair their problem. Enough said about thatā€¦

Iā€™ve carefully reviewed what you have written.

I follow the principle of ā€œall things being equal, the simplest answer is usually correctā€.

To run, you need:

1. A competent cylinder. YOU HAVE ESTABLISHED THIS. Thank you.

2. Spark. YOU HAVE ESTABLISHED THIS. Thank you.

3. Fuel. To the best of my ability and understanding, I cannot find where you state categorically that you found this to be functioning properly on both sides.

Skivo says he thinks it is your pickups. Itā€™s a possibility but I feel that it is probably unlikely but worthy of consideration later perhaps if fueling checks out. The reason I say this is where you wrote this:



If your timing or pickups were screwed up, as Skivo thinks, how could you possibly explain this behavior?

The motorcycle with messed up pickups and screwed up timing, magically all of a sudden, runs fine, then like a fart in the wind, it disappears into chaos again? Somebody explain to me how this feat of magic could occur because I cannot explain it except in one term, fuel starvation, not timing or ignition. I could be wrong but I donā€™t see it. Iā€™m just a man and not a superhero or god, so I cannot be 100% sure but I feel pretty confident that the facts support my conclusions.

Only you can decide.

Carburetors can be exceptionally cantankerous sons of bitches sometimes.

We can disassemble them and clean them and put them back together thinking we did everything correctly and god damn it, the thing wonā€™t work!

Trust me, I feel your frustration and completely understand.

Iā€™ve been there and in fact, today, in a few hours, I have to deal with this exact same issue on a very complex Honda V45 Magna, 4 carburetor setup which I will be taking out for the 3rd time. (Photos at bottom). This setup is 1000x more complicated than what you have there but the PRINCIPLE of carburetor operation, is the same and the cause of my running issues is also the same as yours in my estimation. The difference here is that I only have your words to go on with regard to your specific situation. No ā€œhands onā€ is possible.

Same exact situation as yours. Ran fine, gave to customer, sat for winter, wouldnā€™t run, cleaned again, ran fine, then, wouldnā€™t run againā€¦Believe me, I feel your pain! Really I do. This is why I am trying to help you!

In my case, the motorcycle owner had put a green chemical inside the fuel tank that literally destroyed the zinc coating inside the tank and caused superfine metal particles to bind to the brass jets and atomizers and also go all into the passageways of the carbs (yes, he obviously did not use a fuel filter between the fuel tank and the carburetors!). I sure hope you do.

Some fine particles are again lodged in the internal passageways of one or more of the 4 carburetor bank, Iā€™m positive.

So today, again, 8 hours of complex removal, then disassembly and meticulous cleaning and checking and then reassembly and reinstallation ā€¦ugh.

Yes, I know your frustration and pain and I hate it too! šŸ˜”

In the past where I have dealt with this kind of cuckoo behavior of the carburetor, I have invariably found it to be some small tiny debris that has lodged inside of the internal passageways of the carburetor in a location that you cannot immediately see with your naked eye.

The runs, wonā€™t run, runs, wonā€™t run depends if fuel and/or air can get past this blockage and in what quantity.

In your writings you allude to but I am unsure if you personally rebuilt your carburetors.

1. If you did, when you did this, did you strip the carburetor bodies completely down to the bare housing?

2. If so, how did you go about cleaning both the carburetor bodies AND the internal jets and atomizers?

3. Did you have access to compressed air to blow out the passageways of the carburetor body?

4. Have you gone and set all of the requested settings you asked about, to the factory start points? i.e. 2nd notch on the main needle, 23mm float height, 1.5 turns out from the idle needle, etc.

Lastly, I apologize that I didn't initially see it because it was within the quotation you made, but you wrote,



I wasn't completely clear what you were supposed to be smelling for.

If you have a carburetor that is functioning, but the cylinder is not firing, even in a linked exhaust, your nose would immediately detect the strong smell of raw, unburnt gasoline in the exhaust pipe. When you sniffed it, it would be quite overpowering. If you did not smell this very strong smell of unburnt gasoline, then the fuel is not moving through the carburetor on the side where it is not firing.

This also supports my initial diagnosis of fuel starvation on that carburetor.

If you wish, letā€™s start fresh here and follow a logical course of information collection and analysis and a proper ā€œprocess of eliminationā€.

Iā€™ve given you the free gift of my time and effort to help you. I ask for nothing for doing this because I genuinely want to help you.

If you donā€™t want my help because you feel that as Skivo says, I have ā€œabusedā€ you, then simply say ā€œNo Thanks, Scottā€ and I will go away and leave you in peace with no hard feelings at all and my best wishes.


Either way, I wish you success with your motorcycle.

Best wishes,

Scott

View attachment 26777View attachment 26778View attachment 26779View attachment 26780View attachment 26781View attachment 26782

There is a post on my Facebook webpage down the post list, that talks about some carburetors I have done last year. There are over 400 photos. You can decide for yourself if perhaps I may be reasonably qualified to give you a decent opinion.





Or maybe, Skivo is correct and I just abuse people for my fun and jolliesā€¦:fubar:

Iā€™m sorry but all I can say to his slander is ā€œWhat an Asshole thing to sayā€¦ā€.

Afternoon Scott, i thank you for taking the time to respond you sound like a very busy guy and yet try to help noobs like me over the internet. I read everything you said and what everyone else posted thanks people i unfortunately dont have the time to individually respond to everyone's post but i do see it.


@ Scott the way you explained everything to me makes alot more sense, i am busy taking off the Carbs as im typing here:D


I will take photos of every step as i strip and post it later tonight or in the morning



BTW this is my first time on any sort of forum and everyone is so willing to help


Thanks to everyone taking the time responding.
 
You are most welcome.

I want you to succeed here! Truly.

I'm rooting for you and I am always prepared to go the distance to get you to the finish line as quickly and in the best manner we can.

I look forward to your photos and findings.
 
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Slander?? Hah! And I'm the asshole? Did you notice how NO ONE came to your defense when I provided some necessary context to the new guy? Hmmm..., isn't that telling? And the only person who told me I was wrong was you.

It's not slander if it's true, Scott. A quick review of your post history will illuminate the question as to your impatience with new people and lack of bedside manner (it's right there in your signature too, btw). No one here is doubting your experience or knowledge. I know I've received helpful advice from you in the past.

Dronk was simply reaching out for a some advice on his issue and wound up drinking from a firehose, then you got impatient when he didn't satisfy your ego. I've seen it happen here before; it's a pattern, and it's all right here, on this site, in the "cloud", FOR-EV-ER. You have a bit of a savior complex as well, that's pretty clear from your tone. But that's a discussion for another time.

The #1 notorious issue with the Mark II is the electronic ignition, not the carbs. Am I wrong? What's the one thing that *hasn't* been looked at here yet? The timing. We don't know how qualified the mechanic was who restored this machine, but this is a known problematic system, especially for people not familiar with Guzzis. I'm just saying it's worth looking at. I'm not saying Dronk's issue isn't a fuel issue, but it's a lot easier to confirm proper timing (with proper tools, of course) than it is to remove the carbs and resync them for the umpteenth time.

You guys ever wonder why it's mostly just grumpy old men on this site? Anybody what to buy a stock V50ii? Runs, needs work...
 
"New aftermarket coils", you say. Are you sure they got same resistance as factory ones described in the book?The low one would be important, not in kOhms, but in Ohms. My manual's copy don't cover that, so make your own research.
 
I don't need anybody to defend me whatsoever and I couldn't care less. Your comments about me, were utterly uncalled for and yes, you were an asshole for writing it. That's my opinion.

I could use your warped logic to say "Did you notice how NO ONE came to your support..."

For the record, I don't have impatience with new people at all and don't have an Ego or savior complex like you try and state. I try and help people. It's why I come here. What the hell do you do here?

You can kiss my ...

What I have, is a finite amount of patience at repetitive statements asking for the same information that has either already been provided or that the person asking for help, says they have right in front of them in the form of a service manual, or they are asking questions that are complete nonsense. That type of thrashing around is counterproductive to obtaining a solution and yes, I call it out.

I've provided help to hundreds of people here in many different ways because I enjoy helping them. I do it for free here when I get paid everyday in my workshop for doing the same thing. Some have been difficult to get them to pay attention and listen, but when they calmed down, listened, and followed a logical course of action, their motorcycles were repaired, and they come back thanking me. One especially difficult guy, turned completely around and even sent me $100 as a gift for helping him and $100 to Todd to support the site for the help he received from me (That was truly exceptionally nice and classy by the way).

So, go figure...

Truly, I've read every single post of yours and you haven't done JACK SHIT to help anybody here in 2 years, but you feel compelled to take potshots at me. What is your major malfunction? You should get a Griso and head on over to the Griso Ghetto. You'd fit right in with your unfounded and exceptionally rude criticism!

Also, I can see that you didn't read (no huge surprise there) what I wrote, which brings your diagnosis into question.

"Skivo says he thinks it is your pickups. Itā€™s a possibility but I feel that it is probably unlikely but worthy of consideration later perhaps if fueling checks out. The reason I say this is where you wrote this:

ā€œso i put in the brand new plugs and bike started up with one pop on the right side but after that it seemed fine reved up so good maaaan i was excited AF so i got ready for a test ride and i hopped on and it took about 2 blocks of riding say roughly 400m and got to a robot (yes we call a traffic light a robot is SA) and it went back to running on the one cylinderā€¦ā€

If your timing or pickups were screwed up, as Skivo thinks, how could you possibly explain this behavior?

The motorcycle with messed up pickups and screwed up timing, magically all of a sudden, runs fine, then like a fart in the wind, it disappears into chaos again? Somebody explain to me how this feat of magic could occur because I cannot explain it except in one term, fuel starvation, not timing or ignition. I could be wrong but I donā€™t see it. Iā€™m just a man and not a superhero or god, so I cannot be 100% sure but I feel pretty confident that the facts support my conclusions.

Only you can decide."


I would love to hear your intelligent explanation as to how a supposedly incorrect timing pickup, magically starts running perfectly fine, then instantly stops running correctly. Timing is not arbitrary and certainly not dynamic. Aside from designed advance mechanisms, it's static. It doesn't change moment by moment all nilly-willy. How does timing account for a bike that runs great for several minutes, drives for 400m just fine, then BAM, it stops?

Also, your reading comprehension is sorely lacking because nowhere does the gentleman ever confirm that fuel is passing through both carburetors as expected.

However, it could be confirmed by allowing the float bowls to fill, then turning off the petcock, and running the bike at idle until the engine dies from complete fuel starvation, and then draining the float bowls into a catch jar if they have a drain port, or removing the float bowls for visual inspection.

I'm betting that the side that is running, will have an empty float bowl. The side that is not firing, will have a full level of fuel still in the float bowl. If that float bowl is unexpectedly also empty, then fuel supply issues would be ruled out and he could move onto timing.


There are many ways to skin this cat. How lucky for the gentleman that you have provided him with logical solutions...oh wait, you haven't...

You guys ever wonder why it's mostly just grumpy old men on this site? Anybody what to buy a stock V50ii? Runs, needs work...

Boy, you really are a piece of work. "Grumpy old men". You are something else...

This is the very best site for reliable, solid information on Moto Guzzi motorcycles anywhere on the internet. It is full of highly skilled and seasoned mechanics and kind laymen as well, who give their time and efforts freely, so as to help others.

I'm sorry, but criticism from a "Do-Nothing" like you, has all the weight behind it of a fart in the wind.

I'm used to people like you around here now. You pop out of the woodwork every now and then and have nothing to offer except abject negativity about those who do.

Grow up.
 
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Damn guys let's not get to worked up here šŸ˜€


Ok sooo Skivo, the reason why i went for the carb approach first is because im struggling to get the correct information regarding my ignition/pickup. Yes i have checked the manual ( i have two different manuals on the same bike/model and this is exactly why i am so confused with timing and carb settings because both manuals and google tell me different things) but i have already started with the carbs in the mean time so if it does not fix my problems i will definitely get back to the timing.



Now Scott, you are going to hate me for this šŸ˜ž i have mentioned to you that i am positive my carbs are clean... i guess not as clean as i thought... the reason i was so persistent is because even when the carbs were shining that time after restoration the bike had exactly the same issues even after standing for year..


Please dont judge me for what i thought the carbs looked like before i replied to your posts :D


Sorry for the random pics in-between.


If you need any other specific photos let me know please, this is only the right side carb i started stripping as this is all i had time for tonight.


Also this bike hasn't been washed and polished in 2 years please forgive me.


*Right side Carb only in pics*
 

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Damn guys let's not get to worked up here šŸ˜€


Ok sooo Skivo, the reason why i went for the carb approach first is because im struggling to get the correct information regarding my ignition/pickup. Yes i have checked the manual ( i have two different manuals on the same bike/model and this is exactly why i am so confused with timing and carb settings because both manuals and google tell me different things) but i have already started with the carbs in the mean time so if it does not fix my problems i will definitely get back to the timing.



Now Scott, you are going to hate me for this šŸ˜ž i have mentioned to you that i am positive my carbs are clean... i guess not as clean as i thought... the reason i was so persistent is because even when the carbs were shining that time after restoration the bike had exactly the same issues even after standing for year..


Please dont judge me for what i thought the carbs looked like before i replied to your posts :D


Sorry for the random pics in-between.


If you need any other specific photos let me know please, this is only the right side carb i started stripping as this is all i had time for tonight.


Also this bike hasn't been washed and polished in 2 years please forgive me.


*Right side Carb only in pics*
 

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What i did notice is that the chocke had a oring missing just above the plunger... mmm
 

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I don't need anybody to defend me whatsoever and I couldn't care less. Your comments about me, were utterly uncalled for and yes, you were an asshole for writing it. That's my opinion.

I could use your warped logic to say "Did you notice how NO ONE came to your support..."

For the record, I don't have impatience with new people at all and don't have an Ego or savior complex like you try and state. I try and help people. It's why I come here. What the hell do you do here?

You can kiss my ...

What I have, is a finite amount of patience at repetitive statements asking for the same information that has either already been provided or that the person asking for help, says they have right in front of them in the form of a service manual, or they are asking questions that are complete nonsense. That type of thrashing around is counterproductive to obtaining a solution and yes, I call it out.

I've provided help to hundreds of people here in many different ways because I enjoy helping them. I do it for free here when I get paid everyday in my workshop for doing the same thing. Some have been difficult to get them to pay attention and listen, but when they calmed down, listened, and followed a logical course of action, their motorcycles were repaired, and they come back thanking me. One especially difficult guy, turned completely around and even sent me $100 as a gift for helping him and $100 to Todd to support the site for the help he received from me (That was truly exceptionally nice and classy by the way).

So, go figure...

Truly, I've read every single post of yours and you haven't done JACK SHIT to help anybody here in 2 years, but you feel compelled to take potshots at me. What is your major malfunction? You should get a Griso and head on over to the Griso Ghetto. You'd fit right in with your unfounded and exceptionally rude criticism!

Also, I can see that you didn't read (no huge surprise there) what I wrote, which brings your diagnosis into question.

"Skivo says he thinks it is your pickups. Itā€™s a possibility but I feel that it is probably unlikely but worthy of consideration later perhaps if fueling checks out. The reason I say this is where you wrote this:



If your timing or pickups were screwed up, as Skivo thinks, how could you possibly explain this behavior?

The motorcycle with messed up pickups and screwed up timing, magically all of a sudden, runs fine, then like a fart in the wind, it disappears into chaos again? Somebody explain to me how this feat of magic could occur because I cannot explain it except in one term, fuel starvation, not timing or ignition. I could be wrong but I donā€™t see it. Iā€™m just a man and not a superhero or god, so I cannot be 100% sure but I feel pretty confident that the facts support my conclusions.

Only you can decide."


I would love to hear your intelligent explanation as to how a supposedly incorrect timing pickup, magically starts running perfectly fine, then instantly stops running correctly. Timing is not arbitrary and certainly not dynamic. Aside from designed advance mechanisms, it's static. It doesn't change moment by moment all nilly-willy. How does timing account for a bike that runs great for several minutes, drives for 400m just fine, then BAM, it stops?

Also, your reading comprehension is sorely lacking because nowhere does the gentleman ever confirm that fuel is passing through both carburetors as expected.

However, it could be confirmed by allowing the float bowls to fill, then turning off the petcock, and running the bike at idle until the engine dies from complete fuel starvation, and then draining the float bowls into a catch jar if they have a drain port, or removing the float bowls for visual inspection.

I'm betting that the side that is running, will have an empty float bowl. The side that is not firing, will have a full level of fuel still in the float bowl. If that float bowl is unexpectedly also empty, then fuel supply issues would be ruled out and he could move onto timing.


There are many ways to skin this cat. How lucky for the gentleman that you have provided him with logical solutions...oh wait, you haven't...



Boy, you really are a piece of work. "Grumpy old men". You are something else...

This is the very best site for reliable, solid information on Moto Guzzi motorcycles anywhere on the internet. It is full of highly skilled and seasoned mechanics and kind laymen as well, who give their time and efforts freely, so as to help others.

I'm sorry, but criticism from a "Do-Nothing" like you, has all the weight behind it of a fart in the wind.

I'm used to people like you around here now. You pop out of the woodwork every now and then and have nothing to offer except abject negativity about those who do.

Grow up.
Whish i did this test before stripping and one after stripping would be interesting to see results. Again its making a lot more sense to me by now .
 
Thank You Very Much for the photos. I cannot give it my full attention anymore today but I will look carefully tomorrow.

Iā€™m glad you saw my other test procedure idea.

That is an option I would do right after you finish with the carbs and reinstalling.

Iā€™ll reply again tomorrow.

Weā€™ll figure it out. šŸ˜€šŸ‘ŒšŸ‘
 
my friend, you need an ultrasonic cleaner. I'm no carb expert, but I know that cleanliness is critical, and attempting the level required for happy carbs without one is an exercise in frustration.
 
I'm sure Scott will have more detail, but the needles don't look clean and I couldn't see the passages in the jets. Also be sure that the internal passages are clear and clean. I do see some varnish in the bowls that can be removed with carburetor cleaner. I think you still have a bit to do cleaning up that carburetor.
 
my friend, you need an ultrasonic cleaner. I'm no carb expert, but I know that cleanliness is critical, and attempting the level required for happy carbs without one is an exercise in frustration.
Will a cheapie do the same job? What solution is used in these for carbs?
 

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No.

Those tiny little units are for glasses and jewelry.

You donā€™t have to buy an electrostatic chamber.

Yes, this is the best way to do this and I have 2 commercial units in my workshop, but you have options.

Forgive me but I know nothing about Sourh Africa but I figure you just live in a major city someplace. Surely there is a carburetor shop in your town.

They will most likely have a commercial electrostatic cleaner and you would be far better off paying them their fee for putting your carbs into their machine for an hour or two.

All of the brass pieces, the needle, the jets, the atomizers, all of that can be made like new again like I told you before.

White vinegar, with a couple pinches of salt mixed in. Old toothbrush.

Soak the brass pieces in the vinegar for 10-15 minutes, then remove them one at a time and brush with the toothbrush vigorously.

You will see the pieces changing color from the acetic acid (vinegar is a weak acid but enough to do this job completely).

Once you have scrubbed and soaked the pieces, rinse them thoroughly with clean water. Remove all of the vinegar and salt solution.

You can then rub the pieces with a little metal paste and some 0-0-0-0 superfine steel wool (good auto parts stores or automotive paint stores or large hardware stores will have this). This is not normal steel wool scouring pads but superfine steel wool.

Using this superfine steel wool with virtually any metal polish paste will immediately restore a like new finish onto your brass pieces.

A old broken E string from a guitar (any guitar shop will have some either broken or even a single new one for sale cheap) will work fine as a reamer in a pinch.

I will be rebuilding another carburetor today, (I do 2-4 a week almost year round), I will take some photos and post them here.

Give me a few hours and Iā€™ll have them up here.

I will also get time later this afternoon to look carefully at your photos.
 
Will a cheapie do the same job? What solution is used in these for carbs?
I've had good results with the 'co-z' units on Amazon, suitable sizes can be had for around $300cdn.

Co zuscleaner

I mean Scott is right... it's probably more economical to 'rent' one. I've come to want control over all aspects of these tasks as I've aged.
 
No.

Those tiny little units are for glasses and jewelry.

You donā€™t have to buy an electrostatic chamber.

Yes, this is the best way to do this and I have 2 commercial units in my workshop, but you have options.

Forgive me but I know nothing about Sourh Africa but I figure you just live in a major city someplace. Surely there is a carburetor shop in your town.

They will most likely have a commercial electrostatic cleaner and you would be far better off paying them their fee for putting your carbs into their machine for an hour or two.

All of the brass pieces, the needle, the jets, the atomizers, all of that can be made like new again like I told you before.

White vinegar, with a couple pinches of salt mixed in. Old toothbrush.

Soak the brass pieces in the vinegar for 10-15 minutes, then remove them one at a time and brush with the toothbrush vigorously.

You will see the pieces changing color from the acetic acid (vinegar is a weak acid but enough to do this job completely).

Once you have scrubbed and soaked the pieces, rinse them thoroughly with clean water. Remove all of the vinegar and salt solution.

You can then rub the pieces with a little metal paste and some 0-0-0-0 superfine steel wool (good auto parts stores or automotive paint stores or large hardware stores will have this). This is not normal steel wool scouring pads but superfine steel wool.

Using this superfine steel wool with virtually any metal polish paste will immediately restore a like new finish onto your brass pieces.

A old broken E string from a guitar (any guitar shop will have some either broken or even a single new one for sale cheap) will work fine as a reamer in a pinch.

I will be rebuilding another carburetor today, (I do 2-4 a week almost year round), I will take some photos and post them here.

Give me a few hours and Iā€™ll have them up here.

I will also get time later this afternoon to look carefully at your photos.
Hi Scott, so i phoned around today and i have a small issue. Most of the people/workshops around here didn't have a clue what i was asking them to do with my carbs but i eventually got ahold of a guy that said he can do it but its going to cost me R1800 ($100) :O that is crazy for just cleaning the carbs :( i cant afford that atm especially if im not 100% sure that its going to fix my problem.


So unfortunately i have to go the old school way of manually cleaning it and i took the one carb to work and scrubbed with a toothbrush and compressed air.


I dont think it came out to bad all the passageways are definitely open and all the jets aswell ! I am sure of this statement.


I am now going to soak the jets etc in vinegar and salt for further cleaning like you have mentioned.


Here is the carb body so far...


Please note that the bowl seems to be stained and is pitted in some places but it is clean maybe not as clean as the ultrasonic would have got it.


Hope my manual cleaning job isn't to bad


Thanks
 

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I've had good results with the 'co-z' units on Amazon, suitable sizes can be had for around $300cdn.

View attachment 26853

I mean Scott is right... it's probably more economical to 'rent' one. I've come to want control over all aspects of these tasks as I've aged.
I fully understand what you mean by wanting to do it yourself, for me its just i would rather want to F it up than someone else because then you only have yourself to blame. Thing is as far as i know Amazon doesn't deliver to South A Atm but im sure ill be able to source it locally.
 
Hi Scott, so i phoned around today and i have a small issue. Most of the people/workshops around here didn't have a clue what i was asking them to do with my carbs but i eventually got ahold of a guy that said he can do it but its going to cost me R1800 ($100) :O that is crazy for just cleaning the carbs :( i cant afford that atm especially if im not 100% sure that its going to fix my problem.


So unfortunately i have to go the old school way of manually cleaning it and i took the one carb to work and scrubbed with a toothbrush and compressed air.


I dont think it came out to bad all the passageways are definitely open and all the jets aswell ! I am sure of this statement.


I am now going to soak the jets etc in vinegar and salt for further cleaning like you have mentioned.


Here is the carb body so far...


Please note that the bowl seems to be stained and is pitted in some places but it is clean maybe not as clean as the ultrasonic would have got it.


Hope my manual cleaning job isn't to bad


Thanks

That will work my friend! They look much better.

This carburetor is not that complex. If you have cleaned it really well, blown out all the air passages with carb cleaner and compressed air, and are now soaking the jets and atomizers in the vinegar and salt, and clean those really well, you will be fine. Please make sure that you hold up all jets and atomizers to light, and verify that there is nothing blocking any orifice whatsoever. Nothing at all. Those orifices are so small to begin with, anything there will make it dysfunctional.

Reassemble it and see if she goes! Be sure to set both carbs up identical with the base settings from the manual. If you are unsure, shoot me a question.
 
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Awesome I'm so excited again :D

Does the choke plungers look ok to you?

Ive seen in other threads that people said if it has a imprint it should be replaced but it kind of looks like mine is supposed to have that shape?
 
I don't see the one that you talk about the o-ring missing... I wouldn't be too worried about the imprint. That shouldn't affect it as long as it goes back in the same carburetor so it matches the orifice.
 
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