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V50 mk2 Running on 1 cylinder Please help please

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What will really help you now is a very inexpensive tool which is available at every auto parts store in the USA. Not sure about where you are.

An in-line ignition spark tester, will allow you to see if a spark is being delivered to the plug or not while the bike is running. There are different kinds, but I prefer the first one as you can adjust the gap the spark has to jump. In the USA this is a $8 tool. The other one is about $4.

We need to determine if you are sending spark to the plug or not while it is running. If spark is going to that cylinder, but not firing, then we have a fueling issue still.

If spark is not going to that cylinder, then we had an ignition or coil issue.

For future reference, Please ONLY CHANGE 1 VARIABLE at a time. Don't do more than this, Otherwise it becomes almost impossible to make any progress.

Screen Shot 2022 09 29 at 33347 PM


Screen Shot 2022 09 29 at 33258 PM
 
Ok. I have to go back to work, but I'll check in on this later or tomorrow. Take a look at the video on VHB carb rebuilding above. See if there is anything you did not do.
 
View attachment 26872


I see a metal washer at 18 and at 3


Also, after reading the manual again, BOTH the Idle Speed Screw and the Mixture Screw are set at 1.5 turns.

The Idle speed screw is "screw the needle in until it just touches the slide, then 1.5 screws in for opening setting"

The mixture screw is seated VERY GENTLY, then backed out 1.5 turns, as the starting mixture point.



In this diagram from the actual service manual which you have. I possibly see a metal washer at 35, 16, 13, 12, 2

View attachment 26873
This is where i saw it, in the first diagram where it says please note
 
View attachment 26872


I see a metal washer at 18 and at 3


Also, after reading the manual again, BOTH the Idle Speed Screw and the Mixture Screw are set at 1.5 turns.

The Idle speed screw is "screw the needle in until it just touches the slide, then 1.5 screws in for opening setting"

The mixture screw is seated VERY GENTLY, then backed out 1.5 turns, as the starting mixture point.



In this diagram from the actual service manual which you have. I possibly see a metal washer at 35, 16, 13, 12, 2

View attachment 26873
This is where i saw it, in the first diagram where it says please note.
 
Hi Scott, so i bought new plugs today again and also rotated the slides back to the way they were and went on a test drive.


The bike is way better with the slides this way around but funny thing with the spark plug color is that now the left side is more scooted.


The bike behaved more or less the same i would say abit better because i came abit further on the test ride then before when it starts to bog and jerk.

Whats your opinion?

I have yet to purchase that tool.


Do you think it might need some fine tuning? Should i turn each mix screw one way about a 1/2 test ride if its not better turn each screw the other way 1 turn?


I also checked for airleaks with starting fluid and it does not seem there are any.
 

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Left looks very rich as you said. Right about correct. Are you sure both carbs are jetted the same?
Yes they are, if you look at my previous post you'll see before the rebuilt the right plug seemed to be very rich but i went on a longer ride now and both plugs are pitch black. 😞
 
Also on the longer ride now the bike seems to be ok on higher revs but bogs and jerks on lower rpm and when i got home to open the garge door it stalled and struggled to start again.?.
 
On many older bikes that come into my workshop, I see this due to all sorts of reasons related to the age of the motorcycle.

I am almost always able to compensate for it by moving to a one step hotter plug. This raises the temperature that moves down to the electrode tip, and this keeps it clean.

On NGK spark plugs, this is a number lower. i.e. BPR7ES (cooler) to BPR6ES (hotter)
 
Yes the plugs that was originally in the bike was NGK B8ES so today i thought lets do some change so i got the BP7ES and bike seems better but this might also be because of the carbs that was probably cleaned and set to default settings? Bike can actually ride now so im definitely making progress. Its running on both cylinders now and seems ok ish on open road but does not like low rpm(Pulling away in 1st is very sluggish and idling after taking a decent ride is a no go).

Do you think i should go down one more before i think of getting the spark tester? BP6ES?
 
Bike can actually ride now so im definitely making progress. Its running on both cylinders now and seems ok ish on open road but does not like low rpm(Pulling away in 1st is very sluggish and idling after taking a decent ride is a no go).

You now have fuel flowing through that carburetor.

Imagine that… 😆

If both carbs are running and both pipes are getting hot now, you don’t need the plug tester honestly. You have spark. We kind of knew this all along. What we didn’t have was fueling. Now, we do! 😀👌👍

You can go one more step hotter on your spark plugs but no further.

Moenie die hoender ruk nie!​

A +2 variance on an engine that size is going to be okay.

Now, did you balance the carbs yet because all we did was a basic setup based upon similar physical setups?

Unless you have vacuum gauges, a mercury stick or other type balancing tool, your carbs will not be running correctly. In fact, they could be working against each other.

Also there is a procedure in the service manual to set the idle mixture to the correct settings based upon increase and decrease in idle speed. Did you do this?

I know you are “chomping at the bit” like a stallion, wanting to ride your motorcycle, but you need to finish properly setting her up correctly.

Please let me know.
 
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