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V50 quirks and parts availability
- Thread starter natman
- Start date
Which series of V 50 is it? I don't remember which series was the 1982 version. I will say the V50III seemed to be the easiest to maintain as it went back to a points ignition.
Yes. Here’s a dose of honesty and reality.
You are contemplating a 40+ year old motorcycle.
No motorcycle was designed for a service life that long. None.
So, if you hope to somehow put this motorcycle back into routine use again, then expect to be replacing many parts and seals.
Also, many parts will be NLA (No longer available) and those that are, will be expensive due to their rarity.
To think otherwise, is just lying to yourself about the reality of what you are contemplating to do.
If you go into this with your eyes open and with a realistic viewpoint, then you will be ok.
You are contemplating a 40+ year old motorcycle.
No motorcycle was designed for a service life that long. None.
So, if you hope to somehow put this motorcycle back into routine use again, then expect to be replacing many parts and seals.
Also, many parts will be NLA (No longer available) and those that are, will be expensive due to their rarity.
To think otherwise, is just lying to yourself about the reality of what you are contemplating to do.
If you go into this with your eyes open and with a realistic viewpoint, then you will be ok.
I appreciate your honesty, but I own a 1972 BSA and a 1958 BSA, and used to make a living restoring bikes whose makers had been out of business for decades. I am familiar with the phenomenon.
The bike in question is a V50III. I realize that this model was made a long time ago and not many were made. What I was looking for is some specific suggestions, e.g., "be sure to check that the XXXXX is still good, because they are like hen's teeth." and perhaps some sources for the parts that are available.
Yes, you can get most normal maintenance items. On that model the points sometimes drift off the shaft they pivot on, I used to solder a washer on it. Better yet get a Dyna S for ignition. I had a V50 III for a short time in 83. If you have the PHBH round slide carbs then use the Euro jetting in them. You'll have to use a drill in the atomizer because they don't use accelerator pumps in EU. Sidecovers & bodywork may be hard to find. They run real sweet. Good Luck w/it.
I put a Dyna 3 on ours. You have to switch the left right leads due to the camshaft rotation. I like to time cylinders individually.
What does that matter? It will turn what it needs to and is more than capabable of running that speed all day and faster. From memory at highway speeds the small block seems to run close to 1K higher RPM than a big block at any given speed.
As long as I remember it's a thousand revs per every 20kph, that makes 5krpm at 62 mph. And if somebody has put V35 gearbox in it, then V35 revs at 5th gear equal V50 revs at 4th, if you compare them at the same speed.
Now bad points:
a metal base of the seat can be rotten.
Take a careful look at the oil return pipe from air filter to the sump, just in case - a perished rubber may mean instant leak/drain.
Starter motor may need an occasional kick(indeed, kick!) as brushes get sticky, or because starter relay receives not enough voltage due to old wire loom.
Idiot lights are falling apart if you take a closer look, don't touch them if you can.
Bevel drive likes to drop a bit of oil, that's factory feature, just pour W140 oil, not W90.
As rear brake pedal operates both wheels, bleeding can be tricky, do one caliper at a time, you may then avoid sort of blockage in the system.
The way the rear lights loom is fitted to the frame means sometimes, it is totally destroyed by rubbing against the wheel - you may consider making it new and keep it away from the tyre.
If clutch adjustment on the bar isn't satisfactory, there's another one(actually one of three), at the base of the arm fitted to the gearbox(see pics). Just take battery out and then its base(4 bolts M8), that'll give you an access. You'll see there a "neutral" switch too - watch out, a washer thickness plays a lot in how green light is going on and off. Better don't touch this if you don't have to - falls apart easily, and then better start looking into hens' mouth...
Ah, you also may want to inspect driveshaft at both its ends, not only the UJ, but the splines at bevel's end - this is where they are often eaten away.
But apart of that(or... because of that!) - pure pleasure!!!
Now bad points:
a metal base of the seat can be rotten.
Take a careful look at the oil return pipe from air filter to the sump, just in case - a perished rubber may mean instant leak/drain.
Starter motor may need an occasional kick(indeed, kick!) as brushes get sticky, or because starter relay receives not enough voltage due to old wire loom.
Idiot lights are falling apart if you take a closer look, don't touch them if you can.
Bevel drive likes to drop a bit of oil, that's factory feature, just pour W140 oil, not W90.
As rear brake pedal operates both wheels, bleeding can be tricky, do one caliper at a time, you may then avoid sort of blockage in the system.
The way the rear lights loom is fitted to the frame means sometimes, it is totally destroyed by rubbing against the wheel - you may consider making it new and keep it away from the tyre.
If clutch adjustment on the bar isn't satisfactory, there's another one(actually one of three), at the base of the arm fitted to the gearbox(see pics). Just take battery out and then its base(4 bolts M8), that'll give you an access. You'll see there a "neutral" switch too - watch out, a washer thickness plays a lot in how green light is going on and off. Better don't touch this if you don't have to - falls apart easily, and then better start looking into hens' mouth...
Ah, you also may want to inspect driveshaft at both its ends, not only the UJ, but the splines at bevel's end - this is where they are often eaten away.
But apart of that(or... because of that!) - pure pleasure!!!
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Skivo
Tuned and Synch'ed
First stop for parts is MG Cycle out of WI I would say. 2nd choice Harper Moto, then eBay, etc. Harper Moto is flakey but they probably have a larger (wider?) inventory of used parts than MG Cycle.
My V50ii came mostly intact but the electronic ignition is on its last leg and expensive to replace if you can find a decent used set of pickups. I'll probably convert to points when they finally go for good. (34k on my bike).
All those points that Adamigo made appear valid based on my short experience with this bike, including the starter brushes. That was the first reason my bike wouldn't start after I got it. Took forever to bleed the brakes after i cleared out the lines and rebuilt the cylinders, etc. Still not up to daily driver quality but I can ride it around the neighborhood at least.
What sort of shape is your tank in?
Best of luck!
My V50ii came mostly intact but the electronic ignition is on its last leg and expensive to replace if you can find a decent used set of pickups. I'll probably convert to points when they finally go for good. (34k on my bike).
All those points that Adamigo made appear valid based on my short experience with this bike, including the starter brushes. That was the first reason my bike wouldn't start after I got it. Took forever to bleed the brakes after i cleared out the lines and rebuilt the cylinders, etc. Still not up to daily driver quality but I can ride it around the neighborhood at least.
What sort of shape is your tank in?
Best of luck!
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Also see if you can fabricate a bushing with a slight taper that can be Loctited into the back of the gearbox (the tunnel in the second picture). It's a reinforcement in case the UJ ever fails, it will destroy the gearbox / swing arm area. This is a common preventative measure in Europe