• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7,2013 oil in the airbox getting sucked into the intake

elkgrichard

elkgrichard

High Miler
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Messages
551
Location
California
I know this discussion about the oil showing up in the airbox and then getting sucked into the air intake have been discussed to the point of oblivion.

However someone posted on here that they were going to find a solution to this problem, other then oil fill level adkustments and such which for some folks..... that just didn't work at all. The bike can be almost out of oil and it's still sucking oil into the intake. It's a breather oil separation problem.

So I'm wondering if someone ever found a solution to by-pass/mod this mis-engineered aribox breather system.
 
I really think that your motor problematic. Not sure where to tell you where to go from there. My Stone rental gets beat on and never has more then a mist on the bottom of the box, both 2013 and now 2016 V7 II S.
 
Might you consider installing an aftermarket PCV oil separator between the crankcase vent and the air box (like this Magnum HHO )?
 
rbm said:
Might you consider installing an aftermarket PCV oil separator between the crankcase vent and the air box (like this Magnum HHO )?
Click to expand...

So the oil would stay in that container and then I would empty that out somehow? I guess I could attach that to those rubber lines before they go into the airbox? That would catch the oil and stop it from going into the airbox correct>????

This could be the ticket but with the amount of oil dumping out of the motor I would think that container would fill up fast or plug up?? Could be worth a try maybe.
 
Last edited:
elkgrichard said:
What are the locations of these holes they drilled? Went over and looked at that thread. The guy that end up with the holes drilled is not sure how or what they did. Someone asked ..... it never got answered. So there's a fix, but it's not being answered, since the guy that had this hole thing done to his bike is not sure how or what they did other then holes being drilled????

I'm a little confused.

Friend of mine with an engineering degree should be home in the next couple days and told me he's going to come over and take a look at this thing. He's asking me questions I can't answer, and it's hard to explain this thing on the phone or e mails.
Click to expand...

Here is a bit more info. Maybe your friend can make heads or tail out of it:

"Nah, there is a return from the separator which is the frame. Very similar system to the *old* it block Tonti system used on the Calis. The difference is that there is a non return valve between the sump and the frame. My guess is that either the frame return or the non return valve is clogged and what is happening is that the engine is venting into the frame which is filling up until it overflows out of the atmospheric vent into the airbox. I'll know on Monday when I pull the hose off the frame. I'm expecting a load of oil to pour out.

What I can't understand is the purpose of the non return valve? They never used to use or need one!"
 
SO do you have a picture of this line going into the frame? The plot is getting pretty thick with this system. Man alive.!

They have a one way check valve on the hose coming off of the sump. When the engine is turn off that valve should open up and let the oil drain out of the location it's being held in and back into the sump....in theory.....what's going on is it sits on the bottom of the airbox and end up sucked into the intake system, straight up that front wall and into that intake opening. Lot of vacuum pressure inside that airbox for it to do that.

So if everything works the way it should, you should not ever find oil inside that airbox?

I'm starting to think I don't have a full understanding of just what the hell is going on with this thing.

I've never seen an engine venting system this complicated. What a mess.
 
Last edited:
pokeyjoe said:
No, no pics. If I take off my tank again, I'll take a few.
Click to expand...

I think we could be talking about 2 different venting systems here. I've got a 2013, not a V7-II, those have an entirely different system venting into the frame. So it sounds like they did change the system, obviously they knew the one on my bike was somehow flawed and went to an entirely different system with the V7-II bikes. Looks like they were unable to fix the flaw.

The bike's been back to the dealership several times for this issue and they can't or won't fix it. They just let the bike sit in the shop for a month and then call me to come get it, and tell me it was overfilled with oil. I can run this thing until the oil is off the entire dip stick and it's still pumping oil into that airbox. No way is this an overfill situation.

I'd hate to use the Lemon Law, what a hassle. I'm sure I'll lose all my add on part money, along with taxes and set up fees. No winners in that game.
 
I had a '13 V7 and now have a '16 V7II, and neither had/has any oil-in-the-airbox problem or any significant oil consumption between 6200-mi changes. I have a hunch that your oil recovery system is hooked up incorrectly and your dealer doesn't know enough to troubleshoot it.
 
V7 II pictures! I had my tank off today (re-installed my evap canister to keep fuel from sloshing out the vent tube when the tank was full) and followed all the vent hoses.

J0cEul.jpg


The connection on the left of the frame tube goes to the intake box:

2GrtLK.jpg


The connection on the right bottom of the tube goes to the sump with a check valve:

3shm9j.jpg
 
Different then my bike, although I can see you have the sump return line with that check valve.

Well a little up date.

I removed all the lines and plugged all the holes in the air box and vented this thing to the atmosphere.

I vented both head lines initially going down, and at the low point plugged two lines into that one sump return line so any oil residue will flow down by gravity feed and return to the sump. Then as the other lines go up under the fuel tank the oil can't go up because of gravity. Works great, used clear lines so I can keep track of any oil plugging the system up. Did a ride and no oil at all showing in the lines thus far. Looks to me no oil is leaving the heads without that added vacuum pressure from the inside of that air box. I was surprised at how much air pumps out of those head breathers. About as much as probably any other older style bikes. I remember those lines would always route to the bottom of the bike. I didn't want to do that since I had this oil return sump line that I could incorporate into the system. At least this system will keep oil from blowing onto my back tire.

Only thing I wonder about is that check valve on that sump line. I initially was concern that without vacuum pressure that check valve would remain open and allow the oil to blow up my oil return lines from the sump. So far that is not going on at all.

Don't know for sure if I even need those oil return lines going back to the sump, at this point it can't hurt anything. Everything is vented and pressure can't build up in the sump or the heads, motor etc. It can all breath without freakin oil all inside the damn air box.

I'm happy with the bike again, the love story continues. Even the dogs are happy.
 
Last edited:
Almost forgot, one other thing, Removing the gas tank and disconnecting that fuel line is a chore with a full tank of gas. Getting that all back on scared the crap out of me that I would snap that little red plastic pipe off the tank. Man...that thing should have been made out of metal for cripes sakes. You snap that thing and there is no fix other then an entirely new fuel pump system.
 
If you've ridden the bike recently, there is pressure in the fuel line which exacerbates the problem. Disconnect the power to the fuel pump, then try to start the bike. That will relieve the pressure in the line. It's also easier if you lift the back of the tank and stick a 2x4 in there to hold it up.
 
Wish I had red that before trying to pop that line off. I really thought I was going to snap that plastic pipe off the tank.

I'll keep you guys posted on how this is working out. I should have taken pictures when the tank was off the bike. I think or hope I explained what I did well enough for you guys to understand.

Maybe this can help some people out. Some say they don't have the issue at all, I can't figure out what the heck went wrong, but my shop could never figure this thing out. Had to go illegal and contribute to global warming a little, hate doing stuff like this, my mother finds out, she'll kill me.
 
Observation about the tank fuel disconnect. You're correct to observe the fragility of that part. It is possible to McGiver with a metal elbow it if it breaks. I've read where one owner fitted a quick disconnect to the fuel line, leaving that fragile fuel line disconnect on the tank alone. Ethanol tolerant metal disconnects are available from Beemer Boneyard or CPC directly.
 
Last edited:
I tried that green one, but could not get it exposed enough to squeeze both sides. I wonder if that is the one you're supposed to disconnect, since the other one is sort of risky risking breaking that plastic elbow off.
 
having seen the state of the manifolds from my 600 mile V7 Stone engine that I have in my TT id be bypassing the breather system

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top