That must be at a specific angle. Be sure to search the forum before you attempt to adjust there.
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V7 850 e5 gearbox shenanigans & questions
- Thread starter GoodKat
- Start date
Diff bike Diff year (21 V85tt here), but new i had gbox whine and 'clunky' changes inc 1st.
manual says gbox & diff oil doesn't need a chk until 30k km's
my bike (diff to other pics I have seen) has a "bung plug" with hex on side of gearbox. It was done up by the factory gorilla & took impact driver to loosen.
Anyhow I drained engine oil & gbox oil at 600km's & was 600ml of 'sludge' gooy stuff. Def not 'synthetic' (as expected) and wasn't really "oil". I replaced with 700ml of gbox oil (synthetics are based on mineral oil anyhow. buy you do you). and 'surprisingly' just as the 700ml finished going in, it started to dribble out of that blank plug. Whine gone, gbox smooth inc 1st.
Dangerous/Caution part is gbox needs to be warm/hot to drain & will make a mess. Check drain bolt tightness while cold, just nipped up, warm gbox, then put Ali foil over exhaust, bend into funnel, & spread over garage floor, or use container.
Not sure if above helps.
I've not changed diff oil yet but did chk level.
manual says gbox & diff oil doesn't need a chk until 30k km's
my bike (diff to other pics I have seen) has a "bung plug" with hex on side of gearbox. It was done up by the factory gorilla & took impact driver to loosen.
Anyhow I drained engine oil & gbox oil at 600km's & was 600ml of 'sludge' gooy stuff. Def not 'synthetic' (as expected) and wasn't really "oil". I replaced with 700ml of gbox oil (synthetics are based on mineral oil anyhow. buy you do you). and 'surprisingly' just as the 700ml finished going in, it started to dribble out of that blank plug. Whine gone, gbox smooth inc 1st.
Dangerous/Caution part is gbox needs to be warm/hot to drain & will make a mess. Check drain bolt tightness while cold, just nipped up, warm gbox, then put Ali foil over exhaust, bend into funnel, & spread over garage floor, or use container.
Not sure if above helps.
I've not changed diff oil yet but did chk level.
Speciality
Cruisin' Guzzisti
The gearchange on my 2021 V7 850 with 500 miles on it when I bought it had a truly awful gear change. I decided to give the bike a proper full service myself - all oils, valves etc as well as adjusting the clutch, so that I knew that everything was as per spec.
Following the handbook or w/shop manual (can’t recall offhand) I did a full clutch adjustment, starting at the gearbox end. That adjustment is a lot more fiddly but in my view it is essential to get the basic clutch- end adjustment correct first. As delivered, my bike had very little adjustment left at the hand lever end simply because it had been adjusted incorrectly at the gearbox end. (There is a cable adjuster on the gearbox too). Correct adjustment ensures that the operating lever is at the correct angle to the pushrod that it presses in to separate the clutch plate when the hand lever is pulled in and to set the free play before the lever starts to load the release bearing. If you don’t set up the initial adjustment at the gearbox correctly all you are doing is adjusting the cable free play, but the operating angle might not be optimised.
Proper basic adjustment transformed my clutch/gearchange operation and restored full available adjustment at the hand lever end. Have a look at the manual.
I believe that my one was probably further out of adjustment than most. I also adjusted the cable at the gearbox.
All I can say is that it now goes into first gear silently and the odd refusal to go into second when cold disappeared. My one still clunks either side of third gear despite using the age-old BMW pre-loading the gear lever technique. It is otherwise pretty good though not as slick as my Honda.
BTW I raised the height of the gear lever because I found that I was over-changing (using too much force) on upwards changes and simply because of the lack of feel on account of my riding boot being at the wrong angle to operate the lever lightly with my foot, which is all that is needed. This helped enormously. With everything in proper adjustment these boxes don’t need deliberate slow changes; they are slick with a light action and no false neutrals.
Following the handbook or w/shop manual (can’t recall offhand) I did a full clutch adjustment, starting at the gearbox end. That adjustment is a lot more fiddly but in my view it is essential to get the basic clutch- end adjustment correct first. As delivered, my bike had very little adjustment left at the hand lever end simply because it had been adjusted incorrectly at the gearbox end. (There is a cable adjuster on the gearbox too). Correct adjustment ensures that the operating lever is at the correct angle to the pushrod that it presses in to separate the clutch plate when the hand lever is pulled in and to set the free play before the lever starts to load the release bearing. If you don’t set up the initial adjustment at the gearbox correctly all you are doing is adjusting the cable free play, but the operating angle might not be optimised.
Proper basic adjustment transformed my clutch/gearchange operation and restored full available adjustment at the hand lever end. Have a look at the manual.
I believe that my one was probably further out of adjustment than most. I also adjusted the cable at the gearbox.
All I can say is that it now goes into first gear silently and the odd refusal to go into second when cold disappeared. My one still clunks either side of third gear despite using the age-old BMW pre-loading the gear lever technique. It is otherwise pretty good though not as slick as my Honda.
BTW I raised the height of the gear lever because I found that I was over-changing (using too much force) on upwards changes and simply because of the lack of feel on account of my riding boot being at the wrong angle to operate the lever lightly with my foot, which is all that is needed. This helped enormously. With everything in proper adjustment these boxes don’t need deliberate slow changes; they are slick with a light action and no false neutrals.
ONE OF THE BEST POSTS I HAVE EVER READ HERE BEFORE.
KUDOS TO Specialty.
KUDOS TO Specialty.
OMG! Welcome to the Club!
Contrary to what a bunch of really bad shade-tree mechanics here spew routinely, the Moto Guzzi factory is not filled with a collection of wine swigging buffoons.
It’s amazing how putting things on your motorcycle, to factory specifications, causes it work exactly like it was designed to perform.
Simply Remarkable.
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Speciality
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Why, thank you sir!
Vagrant
GT Reference
And that is why experienced people change every oil at the first service.
FWIW, the oil level was added to the 6 speed in 21 because of improper filling at the factory and dealerships. Note, the rear end level check is not accurate. You must drain it and then put in the right quantity . I use a tiny bit less in both because it all doesn't drain out.
Right now I don`t have need to adjust it but I was just curious. I will probably understand how it works after I have downloaded service manual. Right now it looks like if you adjust it too tight it will engage the clutch all the time and if you adjust it too loose it will just make the clutch engage later (when pulling handle). Before adjusting the cap in the handle the fork moved ~2mm forwards when pushing straight from it and after adjustment there is like 1mm freeplay. I mean if I adjust the handle cap bigger the clutch "fork" won`t move more towards rear.
But hopefully service manual clears this out.
Phlox
Just got it firing!
Any idea what page/section this was in? I cant find anything in the Service manual addressing anything on the trans, actually.
The V85TT manual or any with 6pd trans. Search for one says "Moteur"
Phlox
Just got it firing!
I checked a few, the 85TT manual has the same section as the V7 manual, and I didn't find specific instruction (unless the 'check that the cable lug turns freely' is the instruction) in the 85 vehicle manual 2Q000400, the 2Q000383 engine manual (E4, but same mechanically) or the V9 2Q000202 (which I think is the 6spd version).
That’s because it’s not in the Service Manual.
It’s an Owner Maintenance Item with a scheduled adjustment period listed, and the adjustment at the lever and a drawing of the visual deflection needed at the clutch activation lever. The adjustment is detailed in the Owners Manual pp 73-74. The schedule for adjustment is a page or two earlier
This is not directed at anyone in particular but I really truly wish Moto Guzzi Motorcycles refused to start for their owners until they had read the Owners Manual. Literally, 95% of the questions and misconceptions would vanish.
I’m gobsmacked by it because I love reading the manuals. Most of them I wish they wrote more, often times, much more.
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Phlox
Just got it firing!
Thanks Scott,
So the last 2 bullets do not have an accompanying adjustment of the clutch actuator arm side that would be more complex, as is could easily be inferred by a couple of responses in this thread (it being important, that it is an adjustment, and that the arm needs to be set at the right angle, etc.) and the existence of the bullets in the first place. Its just make sure the slack is real slack and if that doesn't do it follow generic mechanical troubleshooting.
So the last 2 bullets do not have an accompanying adjustment of the clutch actuator arm side that would be more complex, as is could easily be inferred by a couple of responses in this thread (it being important, that it is an adjustment, and that the arm needs to be set at the right angle, etc.) and the existence of the bullets in the first place. Its just make sure the slack is real slack and if that doesn't do it follow generic mechanical troubleshooting.
Look at the lower adjuster on your motorcycle. You will see how it works.
Two principal adjustments are first, 2mm at the top and second, lateral movement of the cable per the diagram at the bottom.
There is no angle listed.
Two principal adjustments are first, 2mm at the top and second, lateral movement of the cable per the diagram at the bottom.
There is no angle listed.
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Speciality
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I went to the local Guzzi dealer today to look round at the stock at this multi-franchise dealer. Out of interest I had a look at the cable adjustment of a couple of lightly-used V7 850 bikes, one a Stone, the other a Special. What struck me most was not that the clutch action felt much different on the two bikes, with a little movement of the lever before slight resistance could be felt at the point where the pushrod would start to activate the release bearing, but the adjustment of the cable adjuster on the gearbox. One one, the Special, the cable adjuster had all the adjustment left; on the other a large part of the adjustment had been taken up.
I mention this simply to point out that there are three possible adjustments that could be made incorrectly: the actuating arm itself, the gearbox cable adjuster (note that on earlier V 7 models there was no adjuster here) and the hand lever.
I believe that, as delivered, mine was not adjusted correctly. Yes, there was 2mm clearance but all the adjustment at the hand lever had been taken up. I therefore started afresh and adjusted the cable at the gearbox end to leave full adjustment at the hand lever, then followed the manual instructions re the cable slack of 2mm and checking the free play as per manual at the operating lever. This transformed the gear change. Essentially it’s the per manual adjustment but leaving most adjustment available at the hand lever end. Hope this makes sense.
I mention this simply to point out that there are three possible adjustments that could be made incorrectly: the actuating arm itself, the gearbox cable adjuster (note that on earlier V 7 models there was no adjuster here) and the hand lever.
I believe that, as delivered, mine was not adjusted correctly. Yes, there was 2mm clearance but all the adjustment at the hand lever had been taken up. I therefore started afresh and adjusted the cable at the gearbox end to leave full adjustment at the hand lever, then followed the manual instructions re the cable slack of 2mm and checking the free play as per manual at the operating lever. This transformed the gear change. Essentially it’s the per manual adjustment but leaving most adjustment available at the hand lever end. Hope this makes sense.