V7/9 - Changing Brake Pads

[tris]

My V9 seems to have a sticky front caliper and I was looking to see if it was common, but didn't find anything specific

Anyone have a view?

I'm thinking that a good clean and exercise of the pistons might be in order

And there is nothing like an 8 year old thread for research purposes

Thanks S216, I know how to get it apart if nothing else

 

[GTM®]

Search has good info; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/search/25423016/?q=brake+pads&o=date&c[node]=215

 

[JasonC]

My V9 seems to have a sticky front caliper and I was looking to see if it was common, but didn't find anything specific

Anyone have a view?

I'm thinking that a good clean and exercise of the pistons might be in order

And there is nothing like an 8 year old thread for research purposes

Thanks S216, I know how to get it apart if nothing else

When you say your caliper is “sticky” I assume you mean that the pads are not retracting fully. If this is the case there are two potential problem areas: the pad retaining pins and the caliper pistons. If it were me, I would remove the caliper and completely disassemble it. Inspect the retaining pins and their respective holes in the pads for corrosion. If any corrosion is found clean and lightly lubricate the pins using disc brake grease; don’t use any other grease for this procedure!

Next remove the caliper pistons. There are several ways to do this, but I typically place a piece of plywood between the pistons and use low-pressure air to force the pistons out of their bores and against the plywood. Note that I’ve not removed caliper pistons from Guzzis, so there may be a better method for your particular model. After removing the pistons carefully pry out the seals from the piston bores. Then carefully inspect and clean the seal grooves. Corrosion or gunk in these seal groves are often the cause of sticky caliper pistons, so make sure they are absolutely clean.

Reassemble the caliper with new seals and reinstall it on the bike. Fill with new brake fluid and bleed using your favorite technique.

Jason

 

[tris]

I've already had the pads out and all parts looked clean with no corrosion but with everything lubed up the problem persists

I think that initially I'll clean the pistons without disassembly and see where that gets me.

In parallel I'll search for a seal kit

Thanks for the input

Tris

 

[john zibell]

Another possibility is the master cylinder is not allowing fluid to return. Or is slow to return. When was brake fluid changed? It should be done every two years or so.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

You didn’t say what year your V9 is however UK weather is hell on motorcycles, especially brakes.

99% of the time, the piston may look clean on the facing side, but if you use a brake piston tool and rotate the pistons 180 degrees in place in their seals, you will find a ridge of contaminants which prevent the piston from fully retracting. You can clean and polish this off with brake cleaner sprayed on 0-0-0-0 steel wool. That’s quadruple ought steel wool. It’s super super fine steel wool. Not Brillo pads!!! Way too course and it will scratch the hell out of your pistons.

Also, the spring plate(s) must be absolutely mirror smooth and polished and should be replaced every time you replace pads (amateurs rarely do this which causes the problem) because this super smooth surface is what the pad actually slides upon. Not smooth and polished, it works lousy at best.

Look at my old post.

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/rear-brake.21541/#post-173119

The tool I speak of is this. It allows you to grip the piston from the hollow inside area to prevent marring. Never use pliers or any other tool but this to spin the cylinder in place.

 

[Bill Hagan]

^^^^^^^

Thanks, Scott.

Last June doesn't seem like an "old post," but I sure wish we could have that month's weather again!

Anyway, might you tell me what item you mean when you say "spring plate(s)?"

I have reread your June response and did a web search for that term, and failed to understand which part that is.

Grazie.

Bill

 

[GTM®]

Anyway, might you tell me what item you mean when you say "spring plate(s)?"
I have reread your June response and did a web search for that term, and failed to understand which part that is.

Bill, it's the shaped piece of metal on top of the pads that is usually retained by the pin, that pushes down on the pads to keep them in place and rattling around. It usually comes with the brake pad "kit" from Brembo. Next I have one in hand I'll post a pic.

 

[Bill Hagan]

Bill, it's the shaped piece of metal on top of the pads that is usually retained by the pin, that pushes down on the pads to keep them in place and rattling around. It usually comes with the brake pad "kit" from Brembo. Next I have one in hand I'll post a pic.

Ah, thanks, Todd.

No need to post pic for me, but others might want to see that. I thought that might be the the item, but wanted to ensure.

I am admittedly among the amateurs Scott referenced as I had no idea that that -- presumably the underside -- "must be absolutely mirror smooth and polished and should be replaced every time you replace pads." All mine are still OEM from the factory. I occasionally curse them when reinstalling, but it never occurred to me to replace and polish.

Bill

 

[tris]

John, good question and I don't know. Easy enough to do so I shall add it to my work scope

Scott, never seen that tool before, but shall add one to my arsenal

 

[scottmastrocinque]

I have reread your June response and did a web search for that term, and failed to understand which part that is.

Grazie.

Bill

Hi Bill. Todd is correct (See # 10 in the first diagram) but also many calipers, utilize also a inner spring (slide) plate (#6 and #7 in the second diagram) which rests clipped inside of the caliper on which the pad rides upon its smooth polished metal surface.

Like these Honda plates.