• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

The little things that you bypass when you're still inexperienced with all of the DIY stuff! Thanks. These can be purchased at any auto parts store I'm assuming?

Assuming it is just a fuse, any chance it did harm to anything else by snipping live wires? Thanks.

Yep, cheap & easily available. Just get the same physical size & amperage rating. It is indicated by the number on the top.

Unlikely any real harm was done.
 
Make sure you check out the wiring from the VR that go direct to the battery, my wires were melting the insulation all the way through the main wire harness. Those had to be cut out removed and replaced.
 
I could offer it two ways; 1. Crimp and go kit, or 2. I have two dead stock VR's at the moment that I could make plug and play kits from short term, if and until I can find the connectors.
If those who are replacing theirs with this one could commit to snipping their wires off their stock take-off VR and send promptly to me, I could keep one or two on the shelf to send immediately. Problem is the first handful of orders. Thoughts/comments?

@rbm - no numbers at all on the connectors, but here they are:

View attachment 9754

View attachment 9755

View attachment 9756
Snipped mine and mailed today.
 
The Mosfet VR cannot be mounted much lower than the stock unit as the wires will foul the front engine cover
It's better to mount it a bit higher
 
Replaced the burnt fuse. Turned key to "on" and lights turned on, etc.

Hit start button and nothing. Did my battery die somehow in the process? Shouldn't be though, because diagnostics said 13.1 at battery. Too low to start it perhaps? Not sure what's up.

Could I have messed something up when reinstalling the new mosfet unit. I still had the battery connected like an idiot. Might've plugged in the negative wire before the positive into the new plugs. Still showing 0611 code too on diag.
 
Last edited:
Check the easy stuff first. Kill switch, bike's in neutral, clutch lever. It's easy to bump something and not pay attention at the time.

You know, I did realize I was trying to start it without the clutch in and it wasn't in neutral (wow...). So then, I was like "whew" it's nothing. Nope. Put it in neutral, kill switch always to "on", hit the starter and nothing. Frustrating...
 
lights go on, high beam works, horn sounds loud...

but simply nothing when i push the starter.

seems hard to believe that the VR is defective but that's possible I suppose.
 
Yes the fuel pump kicks on when I turn the key to on.

I switched out the middle relay with the one behind it if you're facing the handlebars in the saddle. Still nothing. They are 4 prong not 5, assuming I did the right ones.

Still nothing. Lights, high beam, horn work but nothing when I hit the starter.


When I pull the 30a fuse and re insert it sparks a little. Is that normal? Battery connected.

Is it possible that the centurion diag put the ecu in sleep mode when it wasn't connecting and I had it hooked up? Not sure how that works really, I just know it states that when you turn the bike on with diag running and don't connect within 10 seconds.
 
All the sudden it started. Wtf?

That's a good thing I guess but has me hesitant.

Voltage is showing 14v at 3000-4000 rpm in diagnostics and less at idle (can remember exact at idle). Was showing 15v at idle and same at 3k rpm before new mosfet unit.

Still showing that error code though of 0611. Not sure if that will clear or what to do about that.
 
All the sudden it started. Wtf?

That's a good thing I guess but has me hesitant.

Voltage is showing 14v at 3000-4000 rpm in diagnostics and less at idle (can remember exact at idle). Was showing 15v at idle and same at 3k rpm before new mosfet unit.

Still showing that error code though of 0611. Not sure if that will clear or what to do about that.
I m glad you made it :)... i m waiting for my mosfet unit to arrive...but my mechanic will work on it
 
I'm suspecting that my ecu went into sleep mode when I didn't connect the bike in time while hooked up to diag because I was fuckin brain farting and trying to start the bike in gear without the clutch pulled in...just a guess though.
 
Wondering if when I switched the starter relay out with the one behind it (the injector relay I believe), if somehow that's what got it to start. However, it did not start immediately after I switched it, which makes me think it wasn't that. I just don't want to have a bad relay now on the injector relay, but would the bike even start with a bad injector relay? I can simply order a new relay and pop it on the injector relay to be sure but hoping to avoid that if possible. Any thoughts?
 
Wondering if when I switched the starter relay out with the one behind it (the injector relay I believe), if somehow that's what got it to start. However, it did not start immediately after I switched it, which makes me think it wasn't that. I just don't want to have a bad relay now on the injector relay, but would the bike even start with a bad injector relay? I can simply order a new relay and pop it on the injector relay to be sure but hoping to avoid that if possible. Any thoughts?

Something as simple as the replacement fuse not fully inserted the first time?
 
Could be a self programming delay in the ECU unit. I've seen this post before on the Bonneville forum. I know on my truck I replaced a few sensors and the truck had to go through a few cycles before things operated as normal.
 
Don't over-think it. It was likely a simple combo of key on too long, and/or not in neutral/clutch switch issue. If it arises again, then worry about it. The ECU doesn't have a sleep mode, only if the battery voltage is too low it won't allow it to turn the motor.
 
Back
Top