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V7 "Class 3" Error code - Faulty Ignition switch

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Revised thread with original post by Mike Tyron below...
2 months ago my 2014 V7 Special had its CPU re mapped. It started up no problem. after sitting for a month I tried to start it and it made clicking noises and the dash read Class 3. The clicking noise makes me think it might be a low battery but, the error code means it could be something else. Where can I look for list of codes and their meanings?
 
put it on the charger and then see what it reads after its all charged up.
 
Not sure if this helps or not, but my wife's 2014 V7 had the Class 3 code displayed and after replacing the battery the code was no longer displayed. I know there is a code for a bad/dead battery, so it is a little confusing to see an unlisted code appear. The dealer had no explanation either. All is good now.
 
I unfortunately let my battery go flat - leaving the bike unused in the garage. I recharged it Ok, but have had problems a couple of times now with error message "Class 2" being displayed (very quickly) on the instruments and the bike dying on me. I managed to fix it by fiddling with the battery terminals and retightening them and I suspect they just weren't tight enough when I put the battery back in. On the other hand, maybe it needs a new battery or maybe those accessories (SatNav, heated grips) are causing problems. I shall see how I go for now.
 
2 months ago my 2014 V7 Special had its CPU re mapped. It started up no problem. after sitting for a month I tried to start it and it made clicking noises and the dash read Class 3. The clicking noise makes me think it might be a low battery but, the error code means it could be something else. Where can I look for list of codes and their meanings?
I am facing the exact same problem. Dead battery I guess?
 
Yes, upon replacing the battery every thing was great. I have heard that there are voltage regulator problems with the V7s. I sold mine two years ago and purchased an Eldorado! Love it, I do miss my V7 from time to time.
 
Yes, upon replacing the battery every thing was great. I have heard that there are voltage regulator problems with the V7s. I sold mine two years ago and purchased an Eldorado! Love it, I do miss my V7 from time to time.
Replace your rec/reg with a MOSFET type model. You'll get around 25w extra for farkles and it'll put a steady 14. 4 to 14.6 v from idle to forever.
 
We had a V7 in the shop with a "Class 3" error when the key was turned on, even with a fully charged good battery. Turns out the soldier on the main power in the key switch assy base broke loose, pic below. Just a FYI.

Class3Error KeySw
 
Hi,
My bike (V7) has no power when I swerved to the left.
I found the welding were broken (please see picture attached).

I have a couple of questions:
- is the order of the colors the same for all the bikes? I.e. orange external?
- the base looks very used, should I look for a new base to replace that one?

Thank you!
f4b

IMG 20191010 WA0005
 
Why I always keep my bikes on Battery Tenders and load test the batteries quarterly. Not that either will fix a broken solder connection, but they help in other ways.
 
We had a V7 in the shop with a "Class 3" error when the key was turned on, even with a fully charged good battery. Turns out the soldier on the main power in the key switch assy base broke loose, pic below. Just a FYI.

class3error-keysw-jpg.18275

looks like the green wire has seen some heat beyond the original soldering. not sure if this is a factory solder joint quality issue, or an over current issue.. either way, the plastic is fubar...
 
On my to-do list for the '04 Breva 750 is to remove the switch and encase the "cup" at the bottom with epoxy or other tough adhesive to keep the wire ends from vibrating and breaking the soldered joint.
 
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