• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7 III 2021 ( 750cc) intake valve keeps getting off adjustment.

Beavis

Just got it firing!
Joined
Mar 28, 2023
Messages
24
Location
Portugal
Hi to all . After several attempts to find some Tec-tec and knocking sounds from my Guzzi - Left cylinder/Side - almost 10 adjustments after i decided to lift the tank and finally found what was making all that noises - The key/ignition connector was hitting the gas tank , also the fuel pump connector.

After that i have noticed that stills some tec tec noise , much less , but its there , checked my valve lash again , and intake was off...alot! Adjusted , rotate the engine 4X , checked again , it was good. Ride it , and the tec tec again...

Cold engine . Checking again ...and intake was off after 100km ... I always double check TDC ( compression stroke) and try to get without the need to rotate the engine backwards , and i don't torque the locking nut like a gorilla , but its well above the recommended torque. Also before the adjustments i move the rockers a bit to free from some oil between the parts and have accurate reading.

Any thoughts about this?
 
Last edited:
It sounds like it is going loose. Is the adjuster lock nut secure (a good snug is adequate)? Is the rocker getting oil?
 
Yes it's getting oil like it should , everytime I open it it's lubricated , the nut isn't loose , it's tight , but the gap is a lot more than i leave it ( it's audible also). I'm gonna try again , but leave it more tight ( valve gap) hoping when it sits , the gap comes to be correct. I'm using 0.13mm intake and 0.18mm as advised.
 
If it is only the one valve (intake) on the one side, then you need to monitor this carefully. If there is no movement from the adjuster or the locknut (which is often overtightened to death, don’t make this mistake as it will damage it quickly) then you likely have something going on with the valve or the seat where the valve seats. Either way, you want to document your findings, the dates, and the mileage so as to monitor it fully and accurately for changes in clearances.
 
I had a Honda and the hardening on the adjuster bolt was faulty, I replaced it and no more issues. when I had my new Breva it needed the valves adjusted regularly then after 20,000Kms it settled down and just need checking now.
 
Time to dissect it and find out what's wearing. Valve stem, push rod, rocker, cam. My bet is an improperly heat treated valve or rocker.


This video makes me think ...will open again and check the valve lash and push rods.

This one defines the sound that i'm listning for some time ago.

.bmwsporttouring.com/topic/82662-push-rod-end-cap
 
Hi to all , sorry for the late update : Already replaced the Pushrod , adjuster and spring spacer and still the sound issue. Also the valve lash (intake) keeps going off .

Im getting of ideas here.

I think i will drain the engine oil and see if theres some metal on the magnetic drain plug.
 
Back
Top