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v7 III oil filter question

Swix76

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Messages
21
Location
Lowell, MA USA
I changed my oil the other day, replaced the oil filter but neglected to replace the rubber o-ring. After a 20 mile ride, I noticed oil had seeped out from around the oil filter cover. I cleaned oil off and then tightened the oil filter bolt some more. Went for another 20 mile ride, the seepage is reduced a lot. I really don't think tightening or using anymore force on the oil filter bolt would be wise.

I do have a new rubber o-ring.

If I dropped the oil filter to replace the rubber o-ring, would all the oil drop out from the engine or just the oil that happens to be in the oil filter compartment?
 

john zibell

Moderator
Staff member
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
8,619
Location
Huntsville, AL
I changed my oil the other day, replaced the oil filter but neglected to replace the rubber o-ring. After a 20 mile ride, I noticed oil had seeped out from around the oil filter cover. I cleaned oil off and then tightened the oil filter bolt some more. Went for another 20 mile ride, the seepage is reduced a lot. I really don't think tightening or using anymore force on the oil filter bolt would be wise.

I do have a new rubber o-ring.

If I dropped the oil filter to replace the rubber o-ring, would all the oil drop out from the engine or just the oil that happens to be in the oil filter compartment?

You have no choice. Drop the cover and replace the o-ring. Then add back enough oil to be about half way between the full and add marks.
 

scottmastrocinque

GT Reference
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
2,330
Location
Findlay, Ohio
I do not know for sure on your motorcycle, however it does not matter.

NEVER KEEP TIGHTENING ANYTHING HOLDING OIL INTO A MOTORCYCLE. You will start stripping threads in your engine block! This is a very bad idea !

That being said…

A perfectly clean brand new plastic drain pan is $4 at Walmart.

A handheld very fine-mesh strainer is about $4 in the kitchen section.

Make sure there is no dirt or debris on the underside of your bike.

Put the drain pan under the drain plug and remove it. Drain all the oil. Replace the drain plug.

Next move it under the oil filter cover, and remove that. Let the oil drain into your pan. Wipe everything clean and put in your new o-ring. Replace the cover.

Now, with an assistant steadily holding your funnel and handheld very fine-mesh strainer, carefully pour your perfectly fine, just recovered oil, through your handheld very fine-mesh strainer, and into your funnel going back into your engine.

At worst, you will loose a 100cc but then again, I keep cheap rubber spatulas nearby for scraping clean oil out of the pan and into the funnel so I loose next to nothing with this technique.

I have to use this technique occasionally for customers who don’t use new crush washers, or o-rings, or have stripped out threads in the bottom of the engine from overtightening, etc. It works great for keeping that $15-25 / L oil from being wasted.

People always comment on my stack of perfectly clean oil pans. This is why and also that I do not like dirty oily stuff in my workshop. :p

Also, I believe in checklists. I tell people to write out what you need to do. Print it every time and just follow it. Easy and you’ll never make a mistake.

Good Luck!
 
Last edited:

Swix76

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Messages
21
Location
Lowell, MA USA
Thanks for everyones responses.

Does anyone know if all the oil would drain out from the engine if the oil filter is removed?
 

scottmastrocinque

GT Reference
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
2,330
Location
Findlay, Ohio
Most likely, nobody knows unless they made the same mistake as you.

Why are you so obsessed with this question?

Get the drain pan like I told you and FIND OUT YOURSELF!

You have to rectify this error no matter what so why the obsession with how much oil is going to come out?

Get on with it…
 

Midnite

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 2, 2017
Messages
86
Location
Petaluma, CA
I’ve been through this rodeo with my V7ii. Warm up the oil, drain it into a clean pan as Scott states, drop the filter just like you would if you were changing it, install the new o-ring, reinstall the filter and drain plug, and carefully pour the oil back in. Top off as needed. The new o-ring shouldn’t leak if you’ve torqued it properly (careful not to over tighten as Scott mentions). Use a new o-ring every time.
 

Swix76

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 24, 2020
Messages
21
Location
Lowell, MA USA
Thankfully after I tightened the bolt the second time, I believe the oil that appeared afterwards was just oil that was pushed out of the oil filter cap base. It's not leaking, seeping or weeping anymore. I didn't use a lot of force. The same thing happened before after a previous oil change because I didn't tighten it enough. I am using a 6 inch 3/8th socket, I am not a particularly strong or big guy and I am always nervous about stripping threads. I just made this inquiry or post here just in case.

Thanks again for everyones information, tips and help.
 
Last edited:

sib

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
May 12, 2013
Messages
330
Location
Providence, RI
Two small points: 1, DO use new aluminum crush washers on both the drain plug and the bolt that secures the oil filter cap, otherwise you may get another leak after you assemble everything, and have to start all over again; 2, the oil filter bolt screws into a steel "adapter" fitting rather than a threaded hole in the soft cast aluminum engine block, so that the bolt can be tightened more that you might think. However, I've never used more than about 12 Nm of torque on the V7(I) and V7(II) and have never had the cap leak afterward (with a new O-ring). For the V7(E5) the tightening torque spec is 18-22 Nm. Good luck!
 
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