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V7 Shifting/Neutral Problems

SPiscione

Just got it firing!
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
2
Location
NYC
Hey guys,



Unfortunately my V7 classic has been one issue after another, and after finally getting her on the road after the last problem the following started happening. When I first start it up after sitting for a while it'll die after going for a few feet and then I'll start it back up and it'll stay running, pretty weird but I can deal with that. The more annoying problem is once the bike heats up, it becomes incredibly difficult to shift. It'll jump completely past neutral when ever I try and idle, and the lever gets progressively harder to push up for 2nd or down for 1st. Has anyone else experienced this/know what I should do?
 
When this exact set of symptoms appeared on my V7 Stone, the problem turned out to be a misadjusted clutch cable at the handlebar end. I gave it a bit less slack, so that the clutch disengages completely at full squeeze on the lever, and the problem completely disappeared. I think that the adjusting nut may gradually screw inward by itself unless you tighten the locknut well. Try this test: with the engine off, put the bike in gear, squeeze the clutch lever fully, and try to roll the bike as you gradually let out the lever. You shouldn't start to feel any rolling resistance (indicating the beginning of clutch engagement) until the lever is let out one inch or so. But don't overdo the cable tightening, you want some slack when the lever is fully out to prevent the throwout bearing from prematurely wearing out.
 
Check the clutch cable just where it passes between the cylinders, as well. There are threads on this and other Guzzi boards about misrouting of the clutch cable (mostly with the V7 Racer models), which allows it to touch the cylinder head fins. This melts the outside casing of the cable, leading to shifting problems. If it is touching, use a cable tie to fix it to part of the bike that holds it away from the cylinder.
 
Same issue...make sure that clutch cable is not hitting the engine head fins. I zip tied mine to a bracket.
 
And how i can make sure that clutch cable is not hitting the engine head fins?, do i have to remove the tank? or how?

Yes you have to remove the tank. There are several threads on "tank removal" A search should give you what you need. The trickiest part is disconnecting the fuel line. Also maintenance manuals are available in the resources section.
 
I was able to peer into the space between the cylinders on my V7 and saw the clutch cable resting against the fins at the base of the right cylinder. It is difficult (but not impossible) to snag the cable and tiewrap it out of the way without removing the tank. Removing the tank makes the job 10X easier though.
 
Hey guys.

I've been having this exact same issue with my 2014 V7 Stone.
Just had my clutch cable replaced 3 weeks ago (it was touching the cylinder cooling fins and the rubber sheath melted off), but even with a brand new cable the crunchy shifting issue continues to persist. Here's what's up:

- Had a brand new OEM clutch cable installed to replaced my melted one.
- New clutch cable has been zip tied away from the cylinder heads so this issue doesn't repeat itself.
- Can find neutral and shift through all gears perfectly smooth when the bike is cool.
- As soon as the bike gets warm (10-20 mins of city riding), it becomes extremely difficult to shift between 1st and 2nd, and nearly impossible to find neutral. It just gets skipped every time I try to land there. I often have to shut my bike off in gear.
- I'm 99% sure this is not a "free play" issue at the hand control. I have the requisite amount of free play and the locknut is very tight, so there's no way it's moved anywhere since I got it back from the garage.
- My fluids are topped up to the proper levels.
- Often when I'm stopped at a light and I'm squeezing my clutch lever all the way in, 1st gear is still slightly engaged. Like, I can feel my bike try to roll forward when I take my foot off the brake, even though it should be completely disengaged at that point.


This is driving me nuts. I'm loathe to bring it back to the garage, but I'll have to if this could be an internal/gearbox issue.

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on here, particularly considering my cable is brand new and installed properly?

Thank you!!
 
Sadly...I think it just comes down to the fact that MGs are poorly designed/engineered with poor QC. I recently sold my 2009 V7 Classic that I bought used in 2013. In addition to the clutch cable routed to contact the cylinder head which led to the issues you identified, even with the fix noted above, I dealt with a failed final drive seal at 5700mi, both cylinder head oil leaks...one when I test drove it at the dealer when it only had 1600mi on it and the other just a few weeks after getting it, a deformed gas tank caused my the ethanol in our gas in the US [the tank was fiberglass], and the fact that for the first 6000mi it took a good 10min idling after starting to get ready to ride or it would stall. The bike looked great but was terrible to own. No amount of 'MGs are just quirky, blah, blah...heritage blah, blah' made up for these issues which should not occur in a bike made after 1990. I've had a total of 5 bikes and my GF has her own and the reality is...if you want a bike that is bulletproof and doesn't cost an arm and a leg to maintain and is reliable, get a Japanese bike. They make plenty that are naked/retro now and that is what I am in the market for. If I were you, I would sell it.
 
The shift arm(main shaft) goes through the frame, it needs to be greased, all you have to do is look and understand what will need lubrication. It comes under general maint, it is called a pivot point. Maybe there are no bushings in there, older small blocks had none and you had tho keep it greased. MG should not market it like a big block, it is not.
 
Hey guys.

I've been having this exact same issue with my 2014 V7 Stone.
Just had my clutch cable replaced 3 weeks ago (it was touching the cylinder cooling fins and the rubber sheath melted off), but even with a brand new cable the crunchy shifting issue continues to persist. Here's what's up:

- Had a brand new OEM clutch cable installed to replaced my melted one.
- New clutch cable has been zip tied away from the cylinder heads so this issue doesn't repeat itself.
- Can find neutral and shift through all gears perfectly smooth when the bike is cool.
- As soon as the bike gets warm (10-20 mins of city riding), it becomes extremely difficult to shift between 1st and 2nd, and nearly impossible to find neutral. It just gets skipped every time I try to land there. I often have to shut my bike off in gear.
- I'm 99% sure this is not a "free play" issue at the hand control. I have the requisite amount of free play and the locknut is very tight, so there's no way it's moved anywhere since I got it back from the garage.
- My fluids are topped up to the proper levels.
- Often when I'm stopped at a light and I'm squeezing my clutch lever all the way in, 1st gear is still slightly engaged. Like, I can feel my bike try to roll forward when I take my foot off the brake, even though it should be completely disengaged at that point.


This is driving me nuts. I'm loathe to bring it back to the garage, but I'll have to if this could be an internal/gearbox issue.

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on here, particularly considering my cable is brand new and installed properly?

Thank you!!
sounds like new cable stretched and needs a little adjustment. To find neutral I slowly shift it up to find it, seems to help most of the time.
 
Sadly...I think it just comes down to the fact that MGs are poorly designed/engineered with poor QC. I recently sold my 2009 V7 Classic that I bought used in 2013. In addition to the clutch cable routed to contact the cylinder head which led to the issues you identified, even with the fix noted above, I dealt with a failed final drive seal at 5700mi, both cylinder head oil leaks...one when I test drove it at the dealer when it only had 1600mi on it and the other just a few weeks after getting it, a deformed gas tank caused my the ethanol in our gas in the US [the tank was fiberglass], and the fact that for the first 6000mi it took a good 10min idling after starting to get ready to ride or it would stall. The bike looked great but was terrible to own. No amount of 'MGs are just quirky, blah, blah...heritage blah, blah' made up for these issues which should not occur in a bike made after 1990. I've had a total of 5 bikes and my GF has her own and the reality is...if you want a bike that is bulletproof and doesn't cost an arm and a leg to maintain and is reliable, get a Japanese bike. They make plenty that are naked/retro now and that is what I am in the market for. If I were you, I would sell it.


every one of these issues has been dealt with for 2017. many changes for the better.
But Guzzi's are either in your blood or not.
as far as the shifting issue for Ackattak set the slack at the lever when ice cold. it stretches when hot.
 
Sadly...I think it just comes down to the fact that MGs are poorly designed/engineered with poor QC. I recently sold my 2009 V7 Classic that I bought used in 2013. In addition to the clutch cable routed to contact the cylinder head which led to the issues you identified, even with the fix noted above, I dealt with a failed final drive seal at 5700mi, both cylinder head oil leaks...one when I test drove it at the dealer when it only had 1600mi on it and the other just a few weeks after getting it, a deformed gas tank caused my the ethanol in our gas in the US [the tank was fiberglass], and the fact that for the first 6000mi it took a good 10min idling after starting to get ready to ride or it would stall. The bike looked great but was terrible to own. No amount of 'MGs are just quirky, blah, blah...heritage blah, blah' made up for these issues which should not occur in a bike made after 1990. I've had a total of 5 bikes and my GF has her own and the reality is...if you want a bike that is bulletproof and doesn't cost an arm and a leg to maintain and is reliable, get a Japanese bike. They make plenty that are naked/retro now and that is what I am in the market for. If I were you, I would sell it.
Mate that sucks! I've got a 15 stone v7II with no issues at all touch wood! It's coming up to 10,000ks and it's been great so far.
As you say if you want a reliable ride get a Japanese bike but they can still have problems to.
So I don't know maybe it was a Friday special like I had with a Triumph speed triple some years back but I bought another one 18months ago 08 model really low kms and this one has been great.
I think these days that a lot of bikes look to much like some sort a spaceship instead of what a motorcycle should look like so I really have no interest in anything that looks to modern.
 
Sadly...I think it just comes down to the fact that MGs are poorly designed/engineered with poor QC. I recently sold my 2009 V7 Classic that I bought used in 2013. In addition to the clutch cable routed to contact the cylinder head which led to the issues you identified, even with the fix noted above, I dealt with a failed final drive seal at 5700mi, both cylinder head oil leaks...one when I test drove it at the dealer when it only had 1600mi on it and the other just a few weeks after getting it, a deformed gas tank caused my the ethanol in our gas in the US [the tank was fiberglass], and the fact that for the first 6000mi it took a good 10min idling after starting to get ready to ride or it would stall. The bike looked great but was terrible to own. No amount of 'MGs are just quirky, blah, blah...heritage blah, blah' made up for these issues which should not occur in a bike made after 1990. I've had a total of 5 bikes and my GF has her own and the reality is...if you want a bike that is bulletproof and doesn't cost an arm and a leg to maintain and is reliable, get a Japanese bike. They make plenty that are naked/retro now and that is what I am in the market for. If I were you, I would sell it.
To me the head gasket problem sounds like the first owner overheated the engine.
 
When this exact set of symptoms appeared on my V7 Stone, the problem turned out to be a misadjusted clutch cable at the handlebar end. I gave it a bit less slack, so that the clutch disengages completely at full squeeze on the lever, and the problem completely disappeared. I think that the adjusting nut may gradually screw inward by itself unless you tighten the locknut well. Try this test: with the engine off, put the bike in gear, squeeze the clutch lever fully, and try to roll the bike as you gradually let out the lever. You shouldn't start to feel any rolling resistance (indicating the beginning of clutch engagement) until the lever is let out one inch or so. But don't overdo the cable tightening, you want some slack when the lever is fully out to prevent the throwout bearing from prematurely wearing out.

One inch or so? My V7ii special starts engaging at about a half inch maybe less from the bar. Never seemed right to me that it should come on so soon. What sort of distance from bar are others having their clutch engage? I tested by putting in first and slowly released until engine revs begin to drop.
 
One inch or so? My V7ii special starts engaging at about a half inch maybe less from the bar. Never seemed right to me that it should come on so soon. What sort of distance from bar are others having their clutch engage? I tested by putting in first and slowly released until engine revs begin to drop.

Do you have the recommended 2mm of free play at the lever?
 
Yeah it's there but I can see the cable move down at the other end almost immediately. The mechanic who did the first service commented on it and adjusted as best he could. Brad Bike Boy comes highly recommended for Guzzi's and I'm confident he knew what he was doing.
 
I leave 1/8" free play at the leaver then check the cable down near the gear box.
Make sure you can wiggle the cable down at the gear box from side to side or up and down, If you can't the cable is adjusted to tight.
To check what I mean wiggle the cable down near the gear box while pulling the clutch in with tension on the cable it will be taught and Won't wiggle.
Hope this makes sense:)
 
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