• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7 Sport Clutch Disengagement

M

mikemoto

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
2
Hello All,
New to the Board and need some help with my 1974 V7 Sport. About 5 miles into my ride yesterday, clutch lever developed slack and the bike began having extreme trouble disengaging the clutch to shift gears. I tried to adjust out the slack with the adjuster at the lever to no avail. Not wanting to stop I turned around and proceeded home, shifting without the use of the clutch. Upon closer inspection, it appears the clutch cable is fine, but the clutch actuating lever cannot be moved far enough to disengage the clutch. It is as if the clutch actuating lever is blocked from extending as far as it needs to go, though there is nothing in the way. I do not ride the bike much aside from short trips in the area. This was my first real ride of the season. Bike has 12,000 miles, gets irregular maintenance due to its lack of use and makes me feel like the bees knees when I ride it. Any help with diagnosis and troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Put the slack back in the cable, then adjust the lever at the back of the transmission so that when the clutch is disengaged (no power to transmission) the lever is at approximately 90 degrees from the transmission housing. Sometimes the clutch push rod isn't fully seated at the factory and at some point in it's life, it pops fully into the clutch push plate or the holder at the thrust bearing end (though less likely). I believe that is what happened. Adjusting the lever at the back of the transmission should solve your problem. Please let us know what you discover.
 
I have seen this happen whan the throwout bearing comes apart. Check the outer body to see if it's flush with the rear cover of the trans. If it's sunk in much deeper than flush, it may be a good idea to take a look at the bearing, which requires the swingarm to be pulled first.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, guys. Spent some time last night adjusting slack to get the actuating arm in the position that JZ suggested. The dogleg arm is in in proper right angle alignment to the tranny housing. There is no improvement in clutch lever operation and it still feels as if something is blocking the actuating arm from full travel, like there is something keeping the pushrod from going further. I'm going to to look at the position of the clutch pushrod relative to the tranny housing, as Sahms offered. My initial thoughts were clutch pushrod and bearing related, and a simple visual inspection is indeed a choice (and cheap) diagnostic tool before anything has to come apart. Why didn't I think of that?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top