V7 C-S Suspension Thread

[serrge]

Moto Fugazzi: you’re probably the only person on the Internet that tried both Ricor Intiminators and the Mupo kit on the same bike!

I don’t actually have a Guzzi (will have one some day, though , but I’m looking to try either the Ricor Intiminators or the Mupo kit on my BMW F800ST.

The question is: in your experience which one is better for (sport) touring where comfort, minimal brake dive and cornering stability matter?

Thanks!

 

[Moto Fugazzi]

Moto Fugazzi: you’re probably the only person on the Internet that tried both Ricor Intiminators and the Mupo kit on the same bike!

I don’t actually have a Guzzi (will have one some day, though , but I’m looking to try either the Ricor Intiminators or the Mupo kit on my BMW F800ST.

The question is: in your experience which one is better for (sport) touring where comfort, minimal brake dive and cornering stability matter?

Thanks!

Hmmm, I may be they only person on the planet to try those two on the same bike. That's kind off cool.

I remember installing the Ricors years ago (I had to send them a fork to make those). The front end was transformed, and it was better in every way possible. I changed to the Mupo kit when I noticed the Ricors were making a clicking sound when I hit large bumps. It just made more sense time wise for me to only have to take the forks apart once, especially if the Ricors were shot. Turns out the Ricors were fine...there's just a tiny bit of play in them when they do their valving thing, and that was making the clicking noise.

Anyway, I think both Mupo and Ricor kits are very good and a worthwhile addition. They do minimize brake dive quite a bit, but it's still there. They both feel very solid and help cornering. You can't go wrong with either.

FWIW, I sent a fork into Ricor to have a set made, which took months. I believe they used a set from a Bonneville, but they don't even have the V7 listed on their website still to this day, so you're only option may be the Mupo set unless I sell the Ricor kit.
Ken

 

[serrge]

Hmmm, I may be they only person on the planet to try those two on the same bike. That's kind off cool.

Yep, you're officially cool now ;-)

Even though you recommend both kits, I'm still wondering if you have experienced any differences between the Ricor and Mupo kits?

 

[GTM®]

Even though you recommend both kits, I'm still wondering if you have experienced any differences between the Ricor and Mupo kits?

So I'll step in to say that he states above they don't currently offer a V7 option. I sell the Mupo kit, full hybrid kit (with Mupo valves) and the drop in Matris F15K kit, all which I've put in an immense amount of time and money to make sure they work well. Equally as important as valving is correct springs for your weight.

 

[serrge]

Right, but I'll be installing this on a different bike (BMW) for which both options are available.

Since Ken managed to try both on the same bike, assuming he has the right springs and oil, I was wondering if Ken noticed any differences between the two kits.

 

[motoangler]

Any update on the Matris fork cartridge kits and GT rear shocks?

 

[GTM®]

Any update on the Matris fork cartridge kits and GT rear shocks?

Forks kit have been ready. I have a production date of late December on the shocks finally.

 

[motoangler]

Thanks for the reply.

Do you know if the top eyelets will be the same width as oem shocks?

I'm fabbing up a set of racks for some Givi e21 side cases. If it's questionable I'll wait until they are in to finish the racks.

Tony

 

[joejacobi]

Forks kit have been ready. I have a production date of late December on the shocks finally.

So, can I except to see my order arrive sometime in December? or January Todd? thanks.

 

[joejacobi]

So, can I except to see my order arrive sometime in December? or January Todd? thanks.

NO worries - just saw your 'Alert' at the top of the forum - sorry, not paying attention. Its almost winter our way now anyhow... so get better...

 

[RedHawk47]

Todd,
Question about the rear shock measurements on the first post: Where are you taking the measurements for sag? What measurements and calculations do you use?
Center-to-center of the shock mounting bolts?
The "how to measure sag" articles I have read say to measure vertical.
My V7-II Stone OEM shocks measure 390mm fully extended (bike on centerstand). Your post says 370mm.
Thanks

 

[GTM®]

Question about the rear shock measurements on the first post: Where are you taking the measurements for sag?

Vertically. I put a small piece of tape on the fender, and hook the opening in the left side swing arm axle pinch opening. General rule of thumb is 33% travel usage with you seated ready to ride.
Many online articles/videos on opinions from there via Google.

 

[Emily Barker]

Looks like I've run into the same issue! I'm 5'4" and have trouble touching the ground. We are looking for some shorter shocks for the rear, but there are some concerns with the fit. Any suggestions?
Emily

 

[john zibell]

Looks like I've run into the same issue! I'm 5'4" and have trouble touching the ground. We are looking for some shorter shocks for the rear, but there are some concerns with the fit. Any suggestions?
Emily

Emily, I suggest you contact Todd (GT-Rx) directly. He has sources for shocks and I'm sure he has lowered many machines. Do remember, if you lower the back, you need to lower the front to maintain good steering geometry.

 

[Kyle Lamson]

+1 for shocks from Todd. Purchased a set from him shortened to my specs and am very happy with them.

 

[GTM®]

I've brought another great suspension company onboard here for V7 owners. K-Tech twin shocks. Available in emulsion (rebound only) or piggyback (fully adjustable). Review added to the first post of this thread, or click below for more info or to purchase.

 

[Peter Andrews]

Vertically. I put a small piece of tape on the fender, and hook the opening in the left side swing arm axle pinch opening. General rule of thumb is 33% travel usage with you seated ready to ride.
Many online articles/videos on opinions from there via Google.

Gday Todd, re Redhawk47's post I am also a little confused re shock length. OEM length seems to be 390mm not 370mm as often quoted. Also, the Matris shock are quoted at start of thread as "length 388-397mm" but "extended" is quoted at 374mm. What is the difference in definitions? I want to achieve a raised rear when loaded ie laden of about 350mm while also achieving the correct sag meaning I need to start from a longer length (additional height). I hope this makes sense. Pete

 

[GTM®]

Gday Todd, re Redhawk47's post I am also a little confused re shock length. OEM length seems to be 390mm not 370mm as often quoted.

Per what I wrote previously, I am measuring points on the swingarm to frame, not the actual shock (which is 390 eye to eye yes), i.e.;

 

[GuzziMoto]

Gday Todd, re Redhawk47's post I am also a little confused re shock length. OEM length seems to be 390mm not 370mm as often quoted. Also, the Matris shock are quoted at start of thread as "length 388-397mm" but "extended" is quoted at 374mm. What is the difference in definitions? I want to achieve a raised rear when loaded ie laden of about 350mm while also achieving the correct sag meaning I need to start from a longer length (additional height). I hope this makes sense. Pete

When you are measuring for sag it really doesn't matter exactly what two points you are measuring between, the keys typically are to measure in as vertical a direction for the rear and measure inline with the fork tubes for the front. Any two points that are vertically stacked work for the rear, using a piece of tape to mark one or both of these points can make it easier to measure. One point should be either on the rear swing arm or even using the ground itself. that is basically a fixed point that does not move when the rider is on the bike. Corners of the swing arm, a piece of tape, or the rear axle, work well for that. The other point is on the suspended side of the equation, it moves when the rider is on the bike. That point can be an edge of the body work, a turnsignal or other such appendage, or you can use a piece of tape again.
The key is being able to measure how much the suspension move, or compresses both under its own weight and when the rider is on the bike. Both measurements are relative to the measurement between the same two point with the suspension fully extended.
The goal is a set amount of sag with the rider on the bike, usually somewhere in the 25% to 40% or total travel range. 1/3, or 33% is a good starting point. Once that is set, measuring the amount the bike sags under just its own weight without the rider on board will help you determine if your springs are too soft, too hard, or juuuuust right. If that last measurement is too little your springs are too hard. If that last measurement is too big your springs are too soft. But if that measurement is around 10% to 15% your springs are likely the right rate.

 

[Peter Andrews]

Thank GuzziMoto, appreciate your help, I understand the principles of sag fairly well although I haven't compared front to rear before. In this instant, I was just getting hung up on the relative dimensions at the start of the thread v absolute. P