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V7C-S Suspension Thread

Discussion in 'V7/V85/V9 Chat & Tech' started by GTM®, Mar 31, 2014.

  1. Big Kahuna

    Big Kahuna Just got it firing!

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    That's good to hear Tonup.... I'm in a similar situation as you were. I was going to start with the front forks and Todd has recommended the appropriate kit for me. I'm assuming that you went with one of the Matris kits on a non adjustable stock fork? You said that you havent gotten around to pre load and sag on the rear.... Have you been provided any recommendations on preload and sag to help you dial things in?
    Glad to hear that initially things feel that much better!
     
  2. Mal W

    Mal W Just got it firing! GT Contributor

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    Todd, how much travel do these shocks provide, and how cheaply can we get the ST01s to Australia?

    Thanks, Mal
     
  3. GTM®

    GTM® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Mal, direct email sent. Travel info shown above. Let me know here if you don't see it.
     
  4. tonUPRacer

    tonUPRacer Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    yes, I went with the Matris kit since I have the Kaifa fork. I can't recall offhand what the recommended settings for static sag are, I think maybe btw 20 and 30 mm. There's a lot of online guides for getting setup. here's a link to one: http://www.sportrider.com/suspension-setup-guide?dom=sri&loc=rightrail&lnk=suspension-setup-guide My biggest problem is finding the time and a helper! My winter project is to get some weight appropriate front springs and then re-assess the rear. How much do you weigh?
     
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  5. francod123

    francod123 Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I've had my Matris rear shocks on for a little bit but still dialing things in and was looking back at the information sheet that came with my shocks, and had some questions.

    As you see in the picture, the springs rate is listed at 25 N/mm. Does that seem correct for a 165lbs rider (gear factored in)?

    Also, where it says "preload mm: 15," is that a recommended setting based on my specs or is that just what it came with?

    Same for the rebound section, where it says # of clicks at 26. What exactly are they telling me here, because there are more than 26 useable clicks, so is this a recommended setting for me?

    And lastly, on the right it shows how to adjust length, but really it's an inverted view from what it really looks like, and I'm not quite sure which of those two nuts (or both?) to turn.

    I haven't had a chance to specifically dial in sag, etc because of needing others to help, so I've been going off of feel for now, and plus I haven't replaced the front end yet, so it's hard to tell if the back is dialed in correctly since the front is so bad. Thanks in advance for any input.
    IMG_3983.JPG
     
  6. ghezzi

    ghezzi High Miler GT Contributor

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    1. Spring preload looks correct, you've got 2 of them, and you are much lighter than the average rider.
    2. 15mm preload relates to the free length of the spring being compressed 15mm when first installed. Matris seem to like a lot of initial load. Adjust according to static/rider sag to suit YOU!
    3. Rebound is set at 26 clicks out from hard, but you need to adjust it to suit YOU! Ignore their settings.
    4. That photo is upside down - same part used on their mono shocks except it is at the bottom.
     
  7. GTM®

    GTM® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Thanks Ghezzi. Franco, the most important part is to have the bike balanced as to both sag and damping, front to rear. Ignore the settings, and click/adjust away until the bike compresses and rebounds equally. If you are doubtful, I can have a local friend or shop to you help you out.
    Matris shocks must be mounted as pictured, else the shock body will come in contact with the frame. These are IFP shocks, so they can be run either way, up/down.
     
  8. francod123

    francod123 Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Thanks for the info guys. Thanks Ghezzi, thanks Todd.

    Yes I have them mounted as pictured. So, how does height adjustment come into play. I plan on dropping the front a bit, but is it better to raise the rear some and drop the front some, or just drop the front more and leave the rear alone? Trying to get a better understanding of how it all works vs just slapping it on there and ignoring it all like a noob. I understand the sag and rebound, just need a helper with setting sag numbers.
     
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  9. Big Kahuna

    Big Kahuna Just got it firing!

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    Sounds good tonup. With Todds guidance, i have got the Kaifa kit on the way to help bring some good feel to the front. That is where I have been having the most complaint with the bike. Once I get the front installed, i plan on trying to get the bike properly set up. At that point I think I will be in a better position to decide how the rear suspension is working.
    Thanks for the link to the set up information. That should help out a lot.
    I weigh about 165 geared up and ready to ride.
    Alan
     
  10. francod123

    francod123 Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I weigh exactly the same geared up Alan. Todd suggested that the OEM fork springs are fine for my weight. I have the kaifa forks as well.

    If those of us who are around 165lbs with gear, why is the front still so bad if we are at a good weight? Is it simply the lack of adequate travel and oil weight?
     
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  11. Big Kahuna

    Big Kahuna Just got it firing!

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    For me, It came down to the fork just feeling cheap. The rest of the bike worked fairly well but it truly feels like some corners were cut when it came to the forks. I'm hoping for a feeling of quality and functionality after i get the Matris kit installed.
     
  12. francod123

    francod123 Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    That's what I'm hoping for as well. Yea the front just clinks and clanks and is absolute shit.

    I have the standard matris shocks in the back, but honestly need to get the front fixed because right now I can't tell a big difference, and they're supposed to be the shit.
     
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  13. francod123

    francod123 Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Is there any info on the forum about folks who have installed the matris kit up front, and if they went with the recommended settings of air gap, etc? Can't seem to find any. I was reading elsewhere that some folks found better results than what Matris recommended.
     
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  14. GTM®

    GTM® Administrator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Yes, start with what is recommended as to oil level and preload. Report your findings. Did you get them installed already?
     
  15. francod123

    francod123 Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Right. No I do not have them installed. Hoping the OEM springs are adequate like you said Todd. Not many riders on here in my weight to testify though it seems.
     
  16. Beldar

    Beldar Just got it firing!

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    It finally got cold and snowy enough to put my 2014 V7 stone in the garage for the winter. I bought the Guzzi in April and it split time shuttling me back a forth to work on weekdays and weekends in the mountains and canyons of Colorado. I am 6 feet tall and about 200 pounds in riding gear. The first 2000 miles were on the OM front and rear shocks. When I would sit on the bike it would sink several inches leaving only a small amount of shock absorbing travel before my back was recruited to absorb the remainder. The bike would dive with a fist full of front brake and just never felt like I thought it should have out of the box. The last 2000 miles felt like I was on a completely new bike after talking with Todd and upgrading my suspension. I got the GT Race Tech rear shock with the front fork upgrade and now it feels like I thought it should when I rode it from the dealer’s lot. The bike now settles only about an inch when I sit on it and is solid and balanced over bumps, rough roads and in corners. The front end no longer dives and slides in tight corners or when I grab a fist full of front brake. Now I feel more confident on the mountain roads and in the stop and go Denver traffic. Thanks, Todd. Next up is a set of GT pipes and an ECU remap from Todd!
     
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  17. mwrenn

    mwrenn Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Famiglia

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    Just a few quick questions regarding the Mupo fork kit installation. I need to confirm the order and orientation of the parts when I put them in. I have the Marchozzi forks, on a 2010 V7 Classic.
    When I am installing the cartridge, I assume it goes in the tube with the nut on the cartridge facing up? Also, is there any special procedure to get the cartridge with the packing past the threads in the top of the fork tube?
    Or should I dissassemble the fork and install it from the bottom?
    When installing the progressive spring, do the spring coils that are closer together go on top when in the fork tube?
    Last question, any tips on oil level in the forks? The maintenance manual says the fork tube should be perpendicular to the ground, and the fluid should be 150mm from the sleeve rim, without the spring, and the stem at the end of the stroke. Do they mean the end of the stroke compressed? Or with the stem extended?
    I realize these are some pretty basic questions, just want to make sure I'm doing this right when I go together with it.
    Thanks in advance for any input!
     
  18. makarushka

    makarushka Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    When I am installing the cartridge, I assume it goes in the tube with the nut on the cartridge facing up?

    - Yes.

    Also, is there any special procedure to get the cartridge with the packing past the threads in the top of the fork tube?

    - If you mean that the insulating green plastic strips that are supposed to fit into the grooves on the side of the emulator body are in the way and won't clear the threads on the top of the fork tube, they won't... Throw them away and drop the emulators into the forks without them.

    When installing the progressive spring, do the spring coils that are closer together go on top when in the fork tube?

    - Most will tell you yes though in practice it really should not matter.

    Last question, any tips on oil level in the forks? The maintenance manual says the fork tube should be perpendicular to the ground, and the fluid should be 150mm from the sleeve rim, without the spring, and the stem at the end of the stroke. Do they mean the end of the stroke compressed? Or with the stem extended?

    - they mean the fork collapsed. The air gap is a tuning variable that you should experiment with -- probably as a last step once the sags are set and you know your spring rates are in the ball park. I'd start with what Mupo recommends which I believe is 140mm (?) and go from there based on your fork action, feel, travel used, and your preference.
     
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  19. mwrenn

    mwrenn Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Famiglia

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    Ok, that clears up everything I was wondering about, I really appreciate it!
    Cheers!
     
  20. mwrenn

    mwrenn Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Famiglia

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    Got the Mupo kit installed, went for a quick ride. All I can say is holy shit!!
    Man what a difference in the bike. I live down a three mile dirt and sand road, with some serious washboard and ruts. I usually have to run 35 mph max speed, just to keep control of the bike. Any faster and it would bounce me off the road.
    Tonight I ran it at 50 mph no problem, the bike just tracked where I pointed it.
    It felt like I had plenty of room left to speed up as well.
    Gotta get some rear shocks ordered soon. I have to say, it was like a different bike, a huge improvement over what I had.
     
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