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V7c Valve Clearance

Discussion in 'V7/V85/V9 Chat & Tech' started by spadefoot, Mar 7, 2012.

  1. spadefoot

    spadefoot Just got it firing!

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    Apologies in advance if this has been covered (seems like it would have been but my search was fruitless):

    In adjusting the valves, I see a lot of references to adjusting them, but no reference to what the clearances are supposed to be. The shop manual that I downloaded from here didn't appear to have that information, either. Can any kind soul point me in the right direction?


    Thanks!
     
  2. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Take a look at page 2-3 of the workshop manual. The translation from Italian to English is horrible, but the intake is 0.006 inch or 0.15mm, and the exhaust is 0.008 inch or 0.20mm.
     
  3. draidt

    draidt GT Reference GT Contributor

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    Page 183 Of the US owners Manual shows .004 intake and .006 exhaust


    SERVICE STATION MANUAL 981075
    Characteristic page 12 of the V7 Classic Service manual shows the same .004 and .006
     

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  4. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Dan,

    4 and 6 is the big block specification. I think those are a little tight for the small block engine. The small blocks have been 6 and 8 forever and they haven't changed that much.
     
  5. spadefoot

    spadefoot Just got it firing!

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    Firstly: Thanks for the friendly and informative responses! You folks have really been a great help here on this forum, and I do appreciate it!

    It sounds like there might be some disagreement between the owners manual and the service manual? Any thoughts on which way to go? Are these lifters hydraulic? I thought I read somewhere that MG had switched to hydraulic lifters a while back, but not sure if that applied to this engine, or not.


    Thanks again!
     
  6. spadefoot

    spadefoot Just got it firing!

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    Also, the v7 shop manual I downloaded from this site (now that I know what I'm looking for) says .10 mm intake and .15mm outlet. Hmm..

    [edit] sorry, I see now that those are so close to the 4&6 as to be the same.
     
  7. laotzuistruth

    laotzuistruth Just got it firing!

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    Hi! I would like to chime in if it is ok and ask this question. On this walkthrough of the valve adjustment procedure in this reference

    Adjusting the Valves on a Moto Guzzi V-twin
    by Steve Saady (SSaady@Comcast.net)

    He states to:

    3. Shift to the highest gear you can get it in; sometimes it helps to jog the rear wheel with one hand as you push the shift lever to get it in gear.

    4. Take off the alternator cover.

    5. Put a socket wrench on that big alternator nut, I think it's a 23mm. I know a 15/16" will work as well.

    I have done some valve adjustments in my past on BMW's and some other bikes, is there a reason you need to use the alternator nut to move the engine when you already have access to moving the engine with the rear wheel? I am just interested in the significance of the difference as doing both seems redundant.

    On my BMW R90/6 I simply remove the valve covers and move the rear wheel in the highest gear until I am on the compression stroke and then set the clearances. Then spin the wheel and get the other cylinder on the compression stroke and do the same, no access to the alternator nut is needed.

    Thanks for these replies by the way, both spadefoot and I are the proud owners of new V7s and we enjoy maintaining things and learning how to take care of them etc etc.
     
  8. draidt

    draidt GT Reference GT Contributor

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    First off congrats to both of you, I have a V7C as well.

    I can't see and compelling reason to put it in gear and move the rear wheel to achieve TDC, Hell the V7C doesn't even come with a center stand ( I have installed one on mine).

    Adjust Valves

    Stone cold motor preferably over night.

    Put it in Neutral.

    Remove both spark plugs.

    Remove Valve covers.

    Remove front alternator cover.

    Use proper size socket with breaker bar or ratchet wrench.

    There is no timing marks on the V7C.

    Insert a suitable TDC indicating tool in the side you are adjusting first ( I use a plastic straw ) .

    Rotate the engine in a CLOCK wise direction until the indicator first rises to it utmost position and them just ever so perceptible starts to go down.

    Note hold the indicator tool steady and loosely in your fingers centered in the SP hole.

    If you have play in both rockers you are on the firing cycle of that jug and are good to go to adjust.

    If you have no play then you have to rotate the engine again for TDC for the correct firing phase.
     
  9. laotzuistruth

    laotzuistruth Just got it firing!

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    We have center stands on our bikes :) I think what I am trying to say is if I can put it on the center stand and turn the wheel in the highest gear to move the crank, why go through the effort to take the alternator cover off and turn the engine that way?

    If you assumed we only have a side stand I understand you pointing out the alternator/crank turning route and I thank you!
     
  10. draidt

    draidt GT Reference GT Contributor

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    See your point but, 4 bolts and the cover is off, with a breaker bar on the alternator nut you can sit down on a work stool hold the TDC indicator in one hand and turn the motor with the other. Not possible by just turning the wheel in order to get a percise location unless you have someone doing either the TDC measurement and another turning the wheel. One thing I would never do is to either turn the wheel when in gear or the motor in the opposite direction that it was meant to go, in order to achieve the TDC position, A hell of a lot easier and IMHO more percise by turning the alternator nut clockwise.
     
  11. laotzuistruth

    laotzuistruth Just got it firing!

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    Thanks man! I will read between the lines and say so the method is achieved both ways. You are saying the alternator method is more precise.
     
  12. drbulloch

    drbulloch Just got it firing!

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    Gosh, same valve clearances as my 1955 Ariel Red Hunter. Glad the Guzzi is less noisy tho :lol:
     
  13. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    Not only more precise, but easier.
     
  14. Ducatijohn

    Ducatijohn Just got it firing!

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    Just adding my 2 cents worth. I would opt for the .006 and .008 clearances. IMHO, looser is better especially on a low milage motor. As the valve seats nest, your clearances will lessen.

    Does anyone have an oppinion about cylinder head re-torqing?
     
  15. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    As far as I know, the small blocks are not using the metal gaskets like the CARC bikes. They should be retorqued.
     
  16. sign216

    sign216 High Miler

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    Yea, the smallblocks have the old style gaskets that call for re-torquing. A particularly good thing to do, since they are prone to cylinder head leaks.

    Joe
     
  17. richardp

    richardp Just got it firing!

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    Just got my V7c and like other posts used to have a R90/6 and like to do my own service (First one cost over $400 with labour at $90/hr :eek: ).
    How do you set get the torque settings right. I thought it was 7 lbs but my torque wrench is not that accurate.
    I was going to go with 0.1 and 0.15mm as per service data that came with the bike but
     
  18. john zibell

    john zibell Moderator Staff Member GT di Razza Pura

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    7 lb sounds like valve cover. Don't use a torque wrench there, you will probably strip the head where the screws go. Snug is all you need, use some wrench art. It isn't a BMW airhead where you want 14 lb-ft on the center nut of the valve cover. As for the heads, download the service manual. The torque values for the heads are listed in that manual.
     
  19. richardp

    richardp Just got it firing!

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    Thanks heaps John. Yes John, that is the valve covers. I am also wondering why the valve clearances are different.

    quote="john zibell"]Take a look at page 2-3 of the workshop manual. The translation from Italian to English is horrible, but the intake is 0.006 inch or 0.15mm, and the exhaust is 0.008 inch or 0.20mm.[/quote]

    I was going to go with 0.1mm and 0.15mm as per the booklet that came with the bike.
     
  20. mwrenn

    mwrenn Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Famiglia

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    The most recent tuning info I have agrees with the info in the owners manual. I have a Moto Guzzi V7 Classic 2008 and Newer Workshop Manual. Guzzi part number 98107880. Got it from Harpers.
    The engine specifications on page 12 say: Intake Valve Clearance 0.10mm (0.0039 in) Outlet valve clearance 0.15mm
    (0.0059 in)
    This agrees with my 2010 V7 Classic owners manual page 183 under valve clearance: Intake 0.004 in, Exhaust 0.006 in.
    So no worries! :D
     

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