• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V85TT issues and Loose Bits

I also still riding previous GA14 version; next month when I bring it 20 km service they change it to the latest GA15 map. => Improved 3000rpm area, Iess knocking, said the dealer here.

-KG-
 
any idea if this is a world wide map and available in the US.

I had my V85TT serviced (6,000 mile) and recalls done on Tuesday this week. The new GA15 map was downloaded and the bike definitely feels better at low RPM.

Updates for V85TT ECU, 7621GA15 for Eu & World, 7621GC15 for 35KW, 7621GC15 for USA, 7621GD15 for China. Your dealer can load it with PADS.
 
I would like to get my hands on the guy that assembled mine. March 2020 manufacture. I have had it a week and done 220km. Last night the front brake went soft. Found the left hand caliper flapping in the breeze! Both bolts had come out, one was missing. There was no Loctite on any of the bolts, despite my dealer assuring me there should be. I would not have thought this was something I would need to check on a brand new bike. Interestingly, the sump guard bolts were slathered with the stuff. Go figure.
 
I would like to get my hands on the guy that assembled mine. March 2020 manufacture. I have had it a week and done 220km. Last night the front brake went soft. Found the left hand caliper flapping in the breeze! Both bolts had come out, one was missing. There was no Loctite on any of the bolts, despite my dealer assuring me there should be. I would not have thought this was something I would need to check on a brand new bike. Interestingly, the sump guard bolts were slathered with the stuff. Go figure.

Something is fishy here. Are there paint marks on those bolts? If they have stripes or paint dabs on them, then this means they were torqued and marked at the factory during assembly.

You need to lay the blame squarely on the shoulders of the DEALER that supposedly setup your bike. So many dealers think that a setup is just uncrate it, wipe it down, and put some gas in it. It's called a PDI (Pre-Delivery INSPECTION) for a reason...

There are critical bolt checks in the setup process and these are definately on the list!

I feel sorry that this happened to you as it really SUCKS.

However, I am much more in favor of "DEALER INCOMPETENCE" as the cause of your problem.

On my Stelvio, which is 8 years old, if you zoom in on the photo, you can still clearly see the yellow assembly paint mark on the top caliper bolt and even the inner pinch bolt on the fork leg. These are standard marks used for factory checks.

Your V85 should have similar marks. If it doesn't, then I might believe the factory messed up.

DSCF0181
 
Last edited:
Your V85 should have similar marks. If it doesn't, then I might believe the factory messed up.

Yep, there are yellow paint marks. I don't understand, however, if the factory put them together properly, how they managed to loosen and fall out after only 220km, when the bike hadn't turned a wheel prior to my getting it. Interestingly, when I removed the remaining bolts, Loctited them, and retorqued them, the paint on the bolts no longer lines up with the paint on the calipers.
 
Gonna go check out my hardware after lunch. Only got a little over 200 miles on my V85TT, 'cause they had to do a recall on the rear drive seal leak. I really like the bike, traded in my R1200GS. Haven't missed it much. I always have Loctite, I work on my own bikes.
 
Yep, there are yellow paint marks. I don't understand, however, if the factory put them together properly, how they managed to loosen and fall out after only 220km, when the bike hadn't turned a wheel prior to my getting it. Interestingly, when I removed the remaining bolts, Loctited them, and retorqued them, the paint on the bolts no longer lines up with the paint on the calipers.

The difference in position is most likely due to you having a liquid on the threads.

Torque values are always based upon clean, dry threads. Any liquid will act as a lubricant, and accordingly, your torque vales read on your wrench will be in error, specifically the actual torque will be understated by the wrench.

I would not be surprised if the bike came crated from Italy with the front wheel off the bike. If it did, this would support my hypothesis and conclusion.

Other than that, how are things now?
 
Last edited:
Other than that, how are things now?
Mystery solved. You were right. It was the dealer. I remembered last evening that I had asked the dealer to change the tyres prior to my taking delivery. Thus, they had the front wheel out and the calipers off. The guy rang me this morning, full of chagrin, and volunteered that they had made the error. He was most apologetic. I hesitate to label someone incompetent on the basis of one error, particularly when their performance till now has been good. Personally, I am not about laying blame but apportioning responsibility. I prefer to work together to avoid repeating errors.
And I still LOVE the V85TT!!!
 
... I hesitate to label someone incompetent on the basis of one error, particularly when their performance till now has been good. Personally, I am not about laying blame but apportioning responsibility. I prefer to work together to avoid repeating errors.

Oh, sure. OK. I understand. Very civilized of you.

I would like to get my hands on the guy that assembled mine. March 2020 manufacture. I have had it a week and done 220km. Last night the front brake went soft. Found the left hand caliper flapping in the breeze! Both bolts had come out, one was missing. There was no Loctite on any of the bolts, despite my dealer assuring me there should be. I would not have thought this was something I would need to check on a brand new bike. Interestingly, the sump guard bolts were slathered with the stuff. Go figure.

Yes, go figure...

I am unfortunately, oftentimes blunt in my words. It’s something I constantly struggle with. Nobody ever confused me for a diplomat, or being vague in my meanings, but people do know that I willingly own my mistakes.

“Incompetent” is a lovely and appropriate word with the meaning: “not having or showing the necessary skills to do something”. It fits this scenario perfectly.

You could have been killed by this little “one error”. I’m glad you weren’t and I’m glad the hardworking factory workers of Mandello del Lario, aren’t as bad as some would have you believe.


Luckily, in this case, you are OK and really, this is all that matters.
 
Last edited:
I would not be surprised if the bike came crated from Italy with the front wheel off the bike. If it did, this would support my hypothesis and conclusion.
They come with the wheels attached.
v85tt-tlm-jpg.17525
 
It might just be my V85TT but it's worth checking your sump guard bolts. While cleaning the bike this morning after yesterdays 220 mile ride I noticed that the front of the sump guard was loose. The front two M8 x 16 bolts that secure the black steel bracket to the sump were missing. The remaining two bolts that hold the rear bracket to the sump were barely tight, I could undo them with my fingers.

Page 204 in the service manual shows the assembly and torque figures of 20NM for these bolts. I can only assume they weren't properly tightened at the factory. It hasn't had its first service yet.

Would a drop of Loctite blue be advisable on these bolts?

View attachment 17726
Yes, Loctite is good!. I also lost 2 front bolts before 900 mole service. I put stainless Hex head bolts on with loctite. I beleive they were checked during the recall for bevel drive leak issue (which I didn't actually have) and I think something within the assembly was changed (?) but I'm not sure exactly what. On the point of loose things, I'd also reccommend you all check the nut on your side stand securing bolt. I lost the nut on mine at a similar mileage and replaced it with a s/s nyloc version. Note its an M10 FINE pitch thread M10x1.25mm, not course pitch M10x1.5mm, which is more common.
 
Yes, Loctite is good!. I also lost 2 front bolts before 900 mole service. I put stainless Hex head bolts on with loctite. I beleive they were checked during the recall for bevel drive leak issue (which I didn't actually have) and I think something within the assembly was changed (?) but I'm not sure exactly what. On the point of loose things, I'd also reccommend you all check the nut on your side stand securing bolt. I lost the nut on mine at a similar mileage and replaced it with a s/s nyloc version. Note its an M10 FINE pitch thread M10x1.25mm, not course pitch M10x1.5mm, which is more common.
Mine were just sort loose at about 2000k, I did them up properly (don't try and over tighten them where they go into the sump, it is only aluminum after all), rechecked 2 times after that and no more problem and NO loctite used. 12500ish k on Bella now and very happy with her.
 
Had my bike for three days, day one the handle bar Mount bolt came loose. Day two the bar end screws came loose. Today was good though.
 
Back
Top