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V85TT Suspension Thread

I saw that Matris also released a F25R kit for the V85TT. Does anyone know the difference between the F20 and F25 kit? The main difference I see is the fork cylinder being 20mm vs 25mm - not sure how that translates to suspension performance.
 
I saw that Matris also released a F25R kit for the V85TT. Does anyone know the difference between the F20 and F25 kit? The main difference I see is the fork cylinder being 20mm vs 25mm - not sure how that translates to suspension performance.
So I'm a dealer, and haven't seen anything on them from such. Where did you get the info?
 
Were you able to find it? Still curious what the difference is in the two offerings
I did. Matris sent me the info attached. I will add it to the online Store here soon.
The F25R kit is a pressurized sealed cartridge kit (higher performance), whereas the F20S kit is designed to let the oil flow through it. Sealed cartridges are more stable performance wise, they also offer a Pro Kit with an extra reservoir for extended service intervals and performance.

Are you buying? Appreciate the business for the replies here if so.
 

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I did. Matris sent me the info attached. I will add it to the online Store here soon.
The F25R kit is a pressurized sealed cartridge kit (higher performance), whereas the F20S kit is designed to let the oil flow through it. Sealed cartridges are more stable performance wise, they also offer a Pro Kit with an extra reservoir for extended service intervals and performance.

Are you buying? Appreciate the business for the replies here if so.

I'm definitely interested! I'm in NC and would need to figure out the best place to get it setup/installed. I consider myself mechanically capable but am by no means a suspension guru.
 
I'm definitely interested! I'm in NC and would need to figure out the best place to get it setup/installed. I consider myself mechanically capable but am by no means a suspension guru.
Thanks, I have them online now linked below. I can find you someone to install in N.C. - I'll follow up with you direct email once you order.

 
At one time I saw that there was a bracket made that bolts in the same spot that the bottom suspension spring did. It would be maybe about 1" back from original holes on drive train. Sort of like a reverse Z looking bracket. I would like to know if anyone know where I can find this bracket.
Thank alot!
Jim H
 
Google Promoto Lowering Kit V85TT -- another option is to buy a shorter spring, likely the same amount of money, and much more purposeful depending on your weight. To do it right would mean purchasing a new shock, which also is typically 10x better.
 
Ok, needing some help with suspension. I set my sag, which required pulling all the preload out of the front (only hit 47mm7 and almost maxing the rear (to hit desired number). I’m 185 pounds out of gear, and the bike road better however, my front forks sort of “pogo” from 35 mph to 40mph. It’s not violent, but it’s not good feeling at all. I’ve set the rebound at every setting both front and back and even returned to factory settings to see. It still does it. Basically, nothing makes it better or worse.
I did pull the tires and checked the balance and trueness of the wheel (as best I could). I reset the front by bouncing the loose side before tightening the pinch bolts. Any ideas what I could try next, or what the problem might be?
 
FWIW, The V85 I own refused to let me set the preload correctly until it had about 12,000 miles on it. It is very stiff new and needs some break in. I'm 240 and have it dialed in nicely I think. I'd suggest you remove all the tension on the front then give it 1/4 turn of preload. Set the rebound in the middle. On the rear remove all the tension on the spring and again set rebound in the middle. Then go find a crappy road in the middle of nowhere and ride it a mile in each direction to get the feel of it. Stop, turn the rebound two clicks (1/4 turn in back) on the front only and repeat the road. Keep doing this until you feel you have the best setting. Then and only then do the same on the rear. It has been suggested that the fork fluid be swapped out for 5#. 7!/2 is standard. If your slightly short dropping the forks to the third ring cut into them helps ride and handling.
 
Vagrant et al....

I get that the fork will have some break in (bushing etc) but I'm sometime impatient or perhaps better said that I like to fiddle with stuff so am game to try to mess with the forks. As is obvious most any suspension can be improved (I've been involved with cars and shock valving for years) but so often an improvement is in the eye of the....er well...the butt of the rider/driver so each of us will always have an opinion. No worries i get that.

Using myself as an example the stock suspension will most likely suffice for the bulk of my riding and if I find it lacking during some kind of crazy off road moment...I will just remember that and try not to do it again! There is no doubt that most of this riding will be on paved or improved (dirt) backroads around the country so I don't need anything super special, however...and you knew this was coming right?... I feel that the low amplitude high-frequency bumps irritate the forks no end so am seeking a way to soften up this behavior.

Like skinning cats, there are a bunch of ways to achieve this since in the end we will always end up with a skin and a dead cat right? Such are the forks. I can get there for a certainty but I'm getting to the stage where someone's experience may be able to tell me that (for example) changing the the oil viscosity is all I need to do to find my nirvana. Problem with changing just the oil usually affects the entire suspension range when we now know I'm really only looking to free up the issue mentioned above, but this might just be the thing I seek.

I look forward to hearing from anyone willing to opine as my ears are open. Please save me from pulling the forks and forcing me to change the valving. See, you guys would be saving me from actual work! As I age I'll admit lazy comes to the lips of many but I recon I've put in my time and just want to ride. My last ADV was a Ducati Multistrada which I loved too, but I got so tired of changing the timing belts and adjusting the valves (the job itself is easy...the time it took was goofy IMO) or constantly looking after the chain was what made me look hard at the Goose. Think about it...on the V85 we only need a mechanics stool and a few minutes to adjust the valves and that drive chain? Oh yeah, I forgot, there isn't one! Yahoooooooo. (and yes, I adore the Goose)

Thanks in advance for everyone's suggestions. I will change the fork oil weight first because that is dead easy. And remember, please don't call me lazy but "energy efficient" . All the best,
 
Folks, is there a factory spec for front and rear sag that MG is looking for on the V85? I have no problem with creating a rough starting place (I've typically used 40-45 m up front and 25-30 m out back) and go from there but if anyone has any figures that MG feel we should shoot for, please share. Many thanks!
 
I'm also looking at improving off-road handling. One online store offers the Andreani front fork set up. I am considering that, but was also told that once its done, it will require doing the rear as well. I'm about 238lbs and think getting a new spring in the rear will be sufficient. Thoughts? Recommendations? I won;t be doing an enduro race, but have taken it beyond fire roads to BDR and Jeep sections. I've bottomed out the front multiple times. Never the back.
 
I'm also looking at improving off-road handling. One online store offers the Andreani front fork set up. I am considering that, but was also told that once its done, it will require doing the rear as well. I'm about 238lbs and think getting a new spring in the rear will be sufficient. Thoughts? Recommendations? I won;t be doing an enduro race, but have taken it beyond fire roads to BDR and Jeep sections. I've bottomed out the front multiple times. Never the back.
Hi Matty, since your new here, and per the paragraphs at the top of the page, click on the STORE tab at the top. I sell Andreani, but don't recommend them for N. American customers. Springs and valving work hand in hand, but up to you. People like to try to make me wrong despite my decades of experience and knowledge. You'll want to do both front and rear... I always say if your 4-wheel vehicle needed a suspension upgrade, would you only do one end? It's more critical on a motorcycle.
 
Quick update, just added the affordable MShock option at stock length and -25 mm for shorter riders;

 
Can I get away without shortening the side stand. I have the forks at line four also. I suspect the center stand will be a bitch too
Hard to say until I install one at the shop, but on the V7s, while not ideal, it's not a make or break ordeal to go shorter... So I'd have to guess that the V85TT would be the same, else the shock companies wouldn't sell them without a flagged note or recommendation on it.
 
Vagrant, as it is a lazy Sunday morning before I do anything fun, I thought I'd toss some info out from my experience with a lowered bike.

The front has been lowered this much:
Fork Drop

and the rear shock rides on a 1" shorter straight wound spring .

Here you can see the bike relative to the verticals in my garage door and I've taken some rudimentary measures across several places up around the steering head and I feel the bike leans at a 9deg angle while on its side stand. I will probably shorten it (would give me greater comfort on weird camber surfaces as well as in a strong breeze. Understand I've had this setup and stock side stand for some time with no issues to date all of which I think might help assuage your concerns?
Leaning

Clearly none of this is exact, but I hope this helps your consideration. All the best and enjoy your Sunday!
 
Pridanc, yes ,that answers the question. I'd call that 5 rings down and I run 4. I'm guessing that your spring and the lower shock are pretty close to the same distance.
Now my only concern is will I lose enough ground clearance to make me upset.
Thanks.
 
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