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Worn 4v valve guides?

Shrek

Shrek

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Sep 16, 2015
Messages
96
Location
Australia
33E082A7 BE88 477F 8718 20452DA4A446 Hi all
While checking my Centauro valve clearnces,which have never moved,i wanted to check for valve guide wear.
I pushed the valve tops sideways and got about .5mm/20 thou movement on the inlets and more on the exhausts.I didnt measure them but maybe as much as 30-40 thou or 1mm.
Manual tolerance indicates .05 or 2 thou when new.

These are obviously worn,but how bad?
Should i pull the heads now and reco them?

I have been quoted almost $100ea Au for guides alone when the 2v,s cost around $10.Does this sound right?
Something about 4v guides being updated to Borrillium alloy with presumably gold or diamonds?

Has anyone had experience rebuilding these heads and have any advice or cautionary tales.

I would also replace valve seals,belts and valves if required.
Then get a local engine reconditioner to machine seats and grind valves etc
Motor has 70,000km.

This will be my first 4v head job.
Any advice appreciated.
 
You may want to look into inserts in guides, k-line I think is what it's called. Check oil pump if you haven't done this already.
 
+1 on the oil pump. Expensive aftermarket fix but necessary
 
Also those belt drive driven cams are a bitch to set up. Be sure to mark everything. I would recommend doing one side at a time to minimize the risk of getting the valve timing off. Also agree that K-line is the way to go.
 
B5740B44 A892 4A30 8281 EBA73FC01146 EB2AD0E3 DCD9 466E B447 8A542783DFC4 Thanks for the replies

The bike came with what looks to me like a new looking oil pump and gear.
Aluminium housing with steel helical gears and no bearings.
Gear is steel.
Can you identify or confirm these parts are what i need to update the oil pump?
If so,this would suggest the previous owner never got around to updating it.

I will have to research K line valve liners as i am not familiar with them.

Yes John,the cam setup is the major thing that worries me as i dont really understand how to do it.
But i guess i can learn.Just hate to get it wrong.

Thanks for the advice guys
 
After reading all this it seems i have a new uprade steel gear and steal pump gears.
Given the new parts in the box i am guessing its just waitin to be done.
Saves me a few dollars ...i hope.

Thanks for the link jr1967,much appreciated.

Does anybody know a link for setting cams?
 
Shrek said:
After reading all this it seems i have a new uprade steel gear and steal pump gears.
Given the new parts in the box i am guessing its just waitin to be done.
Saves me a few dollars ...i hope.

Thanks for the link jr1967,much appreciated.

Does anybody know a link for setting cams?
Click to expand...

That procedure is in the Daytona workshop manual. You might be able to find one on line. It does require a special degree wheel and a mounting adapter for it. That is why I suggested one side at a time and reference marks. Without these tools and a dial indicator is is just about impossible to set up the cam timing. Also there is a torque setting for the belt tensioners.
 
Ok,thanks.I have a workshop manual,tensioner tool and dial but no degree wheel.
How do i do one side at a time when both heads need reconditioning?
 
Shrek said:
Ok,thanks.I have a workshop manual,tensioner tool and dial but no degree wheel.
How do i do one side at a time when both heads need reconditioning?
Click to expand...

Set one side to TDC with valves closed. Mark cam position. Remove that head only and get it done. Then install the repaired head before setting up and removing the other.
 
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