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Dry Clutch Replacement on Norge

I'm sorry to ask a foolish question but..
Is it possible to visually align the two plates using the centre hub. Then reassemble and pull the clutch in and turn over the engine by hand to self alight on the centre hub/gearbox input shaft? Thereby not needing the tool.
 
NPS said:
I'm sorry to ask a foolish question but..
Is it possible to visually align the two plates using the centre hub. Then reassemble and pull the clutch in and turn over the engine by hand to self alight on the centre hub/gearbox input shaft? Thereby not needing the tool.
Click to expand...


You would have to be very very lucky. Get the correct tool to do the job. Some have made their own tool by using an old hub gear, but getting it centered is critical. Once you tighten down the ring gear, the clutch plates don't move.
 
The clutch on my Son’s 2010 Norge began to feel odd and then lost pressure fairly suddenly. A change of fluid and a bleed was the first thing to try and it produced enough of an improvement to operate it a few times before the pressure was gone again. During those few operations there was an abnormal metallic tinkling sound while the lever was pulled back. Something more serious was obviously wrong so the back end was dismantled and the slave cylinder removed to reveal the fact that its piston had actually been spinning, producing enough wear on both it and the bore of the cylinder body to allow fluid to flood past the seal. We used a magnet to pull out the cylinder that the slave piston acts on and that revealed the thrust bearing which was totally mashed. At the moment we’re having a problem getting the remains of the bearing out, and when that comes out we will have to check for further damage. I haven’t posted a pic before so I don’t know if the one I’m trying to post, of the mashed thrust bearing, will appear. Needless to say, the rear shock linkages were seized, although the swing arm bearings had been greased and were fine.
Brian

IMAG0717
 
Having tried several different adhesives to stick something onto the end of the clutch pushrod and onto the remains of the bearing in order to draw them out to the rear as the manual says, it has become clear that they will not come out that way. Using a tool that we made, we jacked the pushrod in and were able to see why. The bore is 22 mm in diameter, looking from the rear, and both the thrust cylinder and the outer washer of the thrust bearing came out to the rear as expected. However, the bore size increases to 24 mm diameter further in, and the bearing race is housed in that wider section. The only sensible thing about this, as far as I can see, is that we at least have a standard bearing size. Unfortunately it means that the gearbox has to come off, and be opened, to change it.

I would really appreciate it if anyone who has replaced this bearing could tell me if this is the standard arrangement, and if so did you fit a 24 mm o.d. bearing race with a 22 mm outer washer? I have read that this bearing is lubricated by the gearbox oil, but could someone explain how the oil actually reaches the rollers? It seems to me that it won’t get past the clutch main shaft and bearing unless it passes through that bearing and past its seating. Is that the case?

I suppose all will be revealed when we get around to opening the gearbox, but it would be nice to know what to expect.

If anyone has fitted two thrust bearings I would appreciate it if you could tell me if you used two the same size (and if so what size) or one 24 mm and one 22 mm? It seems that two 24 mm units would keep the pressure plate springs compressed a little, and so the clutch won’t engage. Also, what supports the inner diameter of the second bearing?

Sorry this is so long winded.

Thanks in advance for replies

Brian
 
Brian, The clutch on the bike you are working on is a bit different from earlier bikes. One difference is the clutch push rod comes in 6 different lengths. I suggest you look at the service manual for the 2010 before you go much further. A measurement must be taken so you go back with the correct push rod if you make any changes. Also you have the single plate clutch and the gearbox does not have the replaceable hub gear so you need a different alignment tool if you end up in the clutch.
 
john zibell said:
Brian, The clutch on the bike you are working on is a bit different from earlier bikes. One difference is the clutch push rod comes in 6 different lengths. I suggest you look at the service manual for the 2010 before you go much further. A measurement must be taken so you go back with the correct push rod if you make any changes. Also you have the single plate clutch and the gearbox does not have the replaceable hub gear so you need a different alignment tool if you end up in the clutch.
Click to expand...
I was wondering about that, John. The bike is a 2 valve/head model and the registration document says it was manufactured in 2010. The letter in the chassis number that corresponds to the year of manufacture is an A, and I'm guessing that that means a year ending in zero, which would confirm the year in the paperwork. Do you think it has the same clutch as the 8 valve model? I suppose I'll know soon enough as we're trying to get the time set aside to take the engine out and split the gearbox, We're contemplating fitting a new clutch as we'll have it all apart, and there's about 40,000 miles on the clock. If it does have the later clutch, am I correct in assuming that i will only be able to determine the correct length of pushrod after the new clutch has been installed?
Thanks for your help on this.

Brian
 
Last edited:
Interesting, I thought 2010 went to the 4 valve head. It would be strange to have the 2 valve head and the single plate clutch, but anything is possible from Guzzi.
 
Well, the engine has been lowered and the gearbox removed, to reveal a further mystery. The clutch pushrod has a 'head' on it, like that of a flat-headed rivet, and I doubt if that is normal. It has also been getting very hot and is discoloured. It won't pull out of the main clutch shaft of the gearbox, which I think it should do, so yet more will be revealed when we dismantle the gearbox. The only thing that's normal, so far, is that the clutch is a two plate one, and we have decided to replace the plates, which brings me to the question: Can I not use the existing part that I'm going to remove from the clutch shaft as a tool when aligning the new clutch plates? I could see that I would probably have to make a bush for its center, that would take the correct size center bolt for compressing the springs, but is there some other issue that I'm missing.
All assistance and advice will be greatly appreciated.

Brian
 
brodonn said:
Well, the engine has been lowered and the gearbox removed, to reveal a further mystery. The clutch pushrod has a 'head' on it, like that of a flat-headed rivet, and I doubt if that is normal. It has also been getting very hot and is discoloured. It won't pull out of the main clutch shaft of the gearbox, which I think it should do, so yet more will be revealed when we dismantle the gearbox. The only thing that's normal, so far, is that the clutch is a two plate one, and we have decided to replace the plates, which brings me to the question: Can I not use the existing part that I'm going to remove from the clutch shaft as a tool when aligning the new clutch plates? I could see that I would probably have to make a bush for its center, that would take the correct size center bolt for compressing the springs, but is there some other issue that I'm missing.
All assistance and advice will be greatly appreciated.

Brian
Click to expand...


That would work. However getting the correct tool is so much easier. MG cycle sells one at a reasonable price. Also listed on that page are tools to hold the flywheel and the rear main seal driver which would be handy.
 
Reckon I'll take your advice on that so John. Checking on that link makes me sorry that I live in Dublin, Ireland and not Dublin, Ohio. Although, with their price on the flywheel locking tool in particular, I think it might be a bargain, even with the postage.

Brian
 
brodonn said:
Reckon I'll take your advice on that so John. Checking on that link makes me sorry that I live in Dublin, Ireland and not Dublin, Ohio. Although, with their price on the flywheel locking tool in particular, I think it might be a bargain, even with the postage.

Brian
Click to expand...


Having the correct tool for the job makes it so much easier. You won't regret picking up what you need to do the work. The first use will pay for the tool.
 
brodonn said:
Reckon I'll take your advice on that so John. Checking on that link makes me sorry that I live in Dublin, Ireland and not Dublin, Ohio. Although, with their price on the flywheel locking tool in particular, I think it might be a bargain, even with the postage.

Brian
Click to expand...
Hi Brian. I'm in the UK. I have bought the clutch tool and will shortly use it and am willing to sell it on at a reduced price. Please PM me if you are interested. Sorry just realised you are talking about the locking tool which I dont have as I am making my own.
 
NPS said:
Hi Brian. I'm in the UK. I have bought the clutch tool and will shortly use it and am willing to sell it on at a reduced price. Please PM me if you are interested. Sorry just realised you are talking about the locking tool which I dont have as I am making my own.
Click to expand...
Hi NPS, Many thanks for the offer. I'm sure it's easy, but I can't just see how to send a PM. Dhoh! I do need the clutch centering tool, but I see that is available for hire for £10 (plus postage I suppose) and as I have some parts to order, that postage might work out cheaper if the parts and tool are shipped together. It's a good idea to make the locking tool for the flywheel though, and I think I'll do that, especially as I only need to engage the outer teeth on the ring gear and not the inner ones on the flywheel itself.
 
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brodonn, the PM function on this forum is to "start a conversation". Click on the person's "name" to the left of a thread post and you will see the conversation option for that person.
 
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