HOW??
Mad skills Yo!
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HOW??
Bigger wire & no idiot switches, funny, Todd has no problem w/GTM bikes.HOW??
When you say the motor "churned" do you mean it was turned over by the starter? If so, this is a different condition from what I have going on. All I have is a loud thunk from the solenoid when hitting the start button, no starter turning.On the suggestion that the ECU is stopping the process due to low volts, I tried my Norge yesterday. Put the dash to display volts and hit the start button. Motor churned but didn't start. Volts reading went down to 9.0 volts. It started on the second go. So low volts should not be the culprit in the original post assuming the battery is good.
I'm aware of that, I can get the same problem too. But what I was trying to show was that it's not low voltage seen by the ECU which is stopping the process, as if that were the case, mine would not have allowed the starter to turn at 9.0 volts.When you say the motor "churned" do you mean it was turned over by the starter? If so, this is a different condition from what I have going on. All I have is a loud thunk from the solenoid when hitting the start button, no starter turning.
pswiatki, POLSKA here! Well... This might not be as easy as one would like it to be - one would have to bypass the wire harness to route the battery voltage (power supply to the ECU) using thicker wire. Perhaps it would give some desired results, who knows. Question is: which pin on the ECU gets internally sampled to check the power supply voltage (don't have the diagram in front of me - maybe this is trivial, maybe not)? Still... It seems to be the ECU sensitivity issue. I have several scope captures with crank pulses in "my" thread. The ECU designers did something "interesting" with the sampling of the Vcc (power supply) voltage, I'd say. Or the module is marginally able to survive deep Vcc drops during the crank phase.The startus interuptus mod does shorten the path for the electricity, and removes some of the things that can reduce the voltage. Just because the power for the starter doesn't go through the switch on the handle bar doesn't mean the system isn't overly complicated as designed and manufactured by the factory.
There should be a thread on here that tells you how to re-wire it to improve the voltage the ECU sees from the battery when the start is attempted.