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exhaust pipe gasket replacement

C

Chadlebowski

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Jul 28, 2015
Messages
149
Location
West Sussex; UK
Hi.

I'm looking to replace the worn-out exhaust pipe gaskets on my '09 Stelvio,

I suspect this is a fairly straightforward job? Can anyone chime in with ay words of wisdom\experience?
 
Be aware they are quite fragile. Be very careful when fitting the new gaskets. Also polish the area where the old gasket resided and get it good and smooth. A small amount of a light lubricant may help when installing the new gasket to help slide it on.
 
Thanks John - I was advised to use aluminium oxide sandpaper to clean the joins. Is this overkill?

And thanks for letting me know about the gaskets fragility. Apart from that, the removal and re-assemble should be pretty self-explanatory and just call for common-sense? Should I brace/support the pipes as I loosen them; and do i want to remove them in sections or as a whole? And should I loosen from the front to the back or other way round?
 
You may have to remove the O2 sensor from the Y pipe. On my 13 I did have to remove one...it has two. Begin by removing the muffler......

On second thought, if your 09 doesn't have crash bars you can probably just take the header pipes off and leave everything from the Y pipe back in place. I did need to swell the Y pipe collars a bit to slip the new gaskets into place.
 
If you are only replacing the exhaust gasket on the cross over end you can remove just that pipe. Best to loosen the crossover support to get it out. Believe the 02 sensor is in the cross over piece on an 09 so may not need to be removed.

What kills exhaust gaskets is them being loose and then being chewed up and spit out as the hot gasses cut through them. Need to snug them up at every oil change. I lost 2 gaskets before I figured it out so you are already ahead of the game.

What I do on my 2012 is a very light smearing of High temp sensor safe RTD. This glues the gasket in place and won't get spit out if the clamp gets loose. Have not lost a gasket in 30K Km where as I lost 2 in the first 20. Just make sure you get sensor safe high temp since your sensor is on the down stream side of the gaskets. The 2012 has them on the upstream.

If you don't want to use the RTD, just snug the clamps to 18 ft-lb every few months (along with the other bolts at the cylinder and muffler). They are all 18ft-lbs.

I put the gaskets into the cross over piece first as it is easier to slip the header into the gasket than the gasket and header into the crossover. you may need to bend back the crossover tabs a little to get the gaskets in place. You can get a tube expander if you want, or I just gently pry them back with a pair of vise grips.

When you snug up the entire system, I tighten both cylinder clamps first, then work my way to the cross over gaskets. I then tighten the muffler to the bike and then tighten the muffler gasket clamp. I have found that this puts less strain on the muffler when you tighten it to the bike by allowing the muffler gasket to turn a little if needed.
 
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Thanks everyone... This forum really is a wealth of wisdom.

So it would seem that the crossover gaskets are more susceptible to wear. Does it make sense replacing the gaskets at the cylinder end too (seeing as all my "spare" cash and time are going into this bike anyway...)
 
While you have the headers out you might as well replace them. I replaced them on mine as preventative maintenance and they were pretty warn. These are another area where you need to tighten them every few months. I just tighten everything in the order that I said before. The heat cool cycles tend to loosen them up.

Tip on the cylinder exhaust gasket, put a little bit of grease on the back side of the gasket towards the cylinder. This will hold it in place while you get everything in place. The grease will just put off after.

If you still have some money left over, I would by a spare crossover gasket and cylinder gasket to have on hand. I travel with them on trips just to make sure. The one that coneects the muffler to the pipes rarely goes so you are good there.

If you are looking for cheaper and more readily available options for the crossover and muffler gaskets, Suzuki and Kawi use the same gaskets. Don't have an equivalent for the cylinder gasket but they usually don't just go all of a sudden.

Upload 2016 3 10 14 46 18
 
I torqued mine twice in 12K and blew one clean out today. In Omaha. Will look for Kawi parts. 1502926929120887105131


PS
Actually advice on the order of dis assembly and gasket part numbers would be super. Assuming any are in stock. Is there a Japanese match for at the cylinder?

I could live with the noise by my MPG went from 40 to 29. Must be messing with the O2
 
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upload_2016-3-10_14-46-18-png.9796


are these actually the same part and just different names.
 
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I ordered a couple of the 1330's once, and I had to cut the gasket to get it to fit on the pipe.
I then ordered the one from MG, referencing the spec part number. It was the same size as the 1330 and had to be cut down as well.
This is for the gaskets under the bike, next to the O2 sensors, yes?

Thanks in advance,
D
 
Yes. Should not need to cut them down. They should slip right over the pipe. You do need to expand the crossover to fit it in. I have used both the MG and the Kawi ones.

You expand the crossover and then insert the gasket and then the pipe. It is tight but it does fit.
 
Next time I have to do it, I will post pictures, but the sets that I have received, the ID is flush with the ID of the pipe it should be sleeved on, so there is no way to get that gasket on.

Thanks for the response,
D
 
Great advice here....thanks. I read here often, and have used a lot of the information on my 2013. I have the same gasket issue, so my only question is where do you get the Guzzi gaskets from? I will likely do the headers and the cross over for good measure as Canuck1969 advises. I am in Toronto, and I can certainly hit the dealership, but was curious if anyone has an alternative source?
 
I have just had the same issue and I just bought a sheet of exhaust gasket material and cut out pieces to size and then used hipster tape to wrap around both of the crossover pipes with the clamps on top of the wrap. I agree though about tightening gently the clamps at every oil change.
 
So I've had another crossover gasket get blasted out. Ironically two days before the MOT test, which was subsequently failed!
Insult to injury is that the flanged nuts on the header are rusted beyond use (see image).
Can anyone suggest a way to remove these nuts and then the header pipes?
Also - anyone know if exhaust repair tape over the crossover will constitute an MOT fail?
Thanks in advance! 20180428 145528
 
Use heat & take stud out with nut.
Also tapping the stud while heating helps to loosen.
Go easy don't try to force.

Install new stud & nut with anti-sieze.
 
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