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I hate electrics

Fiat500

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Jun 15, 2013
Messages
197
Location
Richmond, New Zealand
Ok, I think I have read just about everything I can on the Carc no start issues but I give up.
My 2008 1200 Sport had been starting fine for years with the startus interrupts mode but now has started playing up
What I am getting is a intermittent clunk when hitting bottom which then blows the bypass fuse. Replace fuse and 9 times out of 10 it starts right up. Why is this fuse being subjected to excess draw?
Hope someone can help.
 
Hi Fiat500, I often go down to Stoke and while driving into Nelson I pass a house which has a sign "Ducati servicing" he may be able to assist, below is an issue I had on my Breva ages ago, but before all this have your battery load tested and check all the battery terminals and earths for a good connection.
"From memory the reason the 30A fuse blows (if you haven't done the starter mod) is when you press the start button the start relay stays held in by the ECU for about 5 sec activating the solenoid, the circuit for this is via the ignition switch, with associated volts drop, you don't have to keep your finger on the start button. Once the bike starts and gets to about 400 rpm a signal is sent to the ECU and the starter relay drops out. The problem is that up to 40A can flow in this circuit via a very low resistance coil in the solenoid, if the solenoid doesn't operate in a split second the fuse blows. Before i did the mod, to stop my fuse blowing I would hit the kill button if the bike didn't start after 2 seconds, this dropped out the starter relay and stopped the engine."
 
Hi Kevin.
The guy at the Ducati service is Andy and I know him quite well.
Have cleaned all connections to within a inch of there life.
Battery is a 2 month old 270cca and while it hasn't been load tested its holding good voltage after many test starts today.
The mode of a heavy gauge wire direct from battery to the yellow wire postion on the starter relay was done years ago.
Did you do a different mode?
I can hear the solenoid clunk loudly just before the fuse blows so keep thinking problem lies here.
Bloody thing is a sealed unit so you can't inspect contacts.
 
You starter is 15 years old. It may be drawing excessive current. It may be time to remove the starter and clean it up. There are posts here on cleaning up the bendix drive. If it is sticky, the solenoid has extra work to do.
 
Starter was very clean and bendix drive was moving freely when I removed it to check solenoid.
In that case, go to load test the battery. If it wasn't prepped correctly they can fail quickly. It is about the only component that can be the issue at this point.
 
Hi Bisbonian.
Starting to think starter could be at issue.
At the moment every start is a fail, just tested solenoid feed from relay and it is holding 12.4V for 5 seconds.
Solenoid smacks home but nothing from starter. I see new solenoids in Aus for $130 odd plus freight.
 
Hi Bisbonian.
Starting to think starter could be at issue.
At the moment every start is a fail, just tested solenoid feed from relay and it is holding 12.4V for 5 seconds.
Solenoid smacks home but nothing from starter. I see new solenoids in Aus for $130 odd plus freight.
On the Valeo starter, it usually isn't the solenoid but the starter motor. Jump directly to the starter motor (the lower connection on the solenoid) and let us know if the motor spins.
 
Bosch starter.
Hot wired solenoid and it slams home. Also noted bendix gear spins slowly, like at 1/10 speed and no torque. Normal?

Hot wire to motor only and it spins up fine, not grabbing bendix to check torque!

Wired up using solenoid to bridge motor contacts and everything worked as it should.

Only thing I cannot tell is has the starter got the power to turn motor without drawing excess current.
Can anyone tell me how to check this?
I have a good Fluke multimeter if that helps.
 
The contacts in the solenoid could be "stuffed", do as John says and connect a suitably sized cable directly from the battery + to the lower connector on the solenoid, that goes directly to the starter motor, do it quickly and firmly so as not to cause a spark as you could damage the thread on the bolt. PS I did the mod the same as you.
 
Hi Kevin.
Removed starter, tested solenoid then motor and finally motor using solenoid to activate. All seemed ok
Refitted starter and it fired straight up, even sounding a lot faster turnover.
 
Bosch starter.
Hot wired solenoid and it slams home. Also noted bendix gear spins slowly, like at 1/10 speed and no torque. Normal?

Hot wire to motor only and it spins up fine, not grabbing bendix to check torque!

Wired up using solenoid to bridge motor contacts and everything worked as it should.

Only thing I cannot tell is has the starter got the power to turn motor without drawing excess current.
Can anyone tell me how to check this?
I have a good Fluke multimeter if that helps.
You should have said Bosch starter earlier. To may knowledge all the CARC bikes came with a Valeo. The Bosch starter pulls much more current than the Valeo so everything needs to be top notch. The best thing with the Bosh starter is any auto electric shop can rebuild it.
 
It's a Chinese Bosch John, started use in 08 on some CARC's but not all till later. I have seen these jump out and stay in the ring gear. I replace them w/Valeo.
 
It's a Chinese Bosch John, started use in 08 on some CARC's but not all till later. I have seen these jump out and stay in the ring gear. I replace them w/Valeo.
Thanks for the information. I'm only familiar with the old style Bosch.
 
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