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Just a question about the full boat and oil needs

G

guzzi jon

High Miler
GT Contributor
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
707
Location
Anaheim Hills, CA
Hi Todd,
As I am about to get your reflashed ECU and the AT setup, my griso should run cooler? correct? If so, I wont need to buy $16 a quart oil for it anymore as my understanding is that the high dollar oil is to deal with the high temps that the overly lean new bikes run at. So, as my griso is similar to a V11, once I get the setup dialed in, I should be able to run standard 20-50 synth as the bike wont be running so hot, this could be a real savings over the years, any input? Talking to the other guzzi guru's, they say the only reason to run the expensive stuff is the new engines run lean and hot, if mine runs proper and cool, I dont need a $90 oil change right? any input is appreciated?
cheers,
Jon
 
Without being an oil expert or a Guzzi owner, I say that this sounds highly logical.
You only have to warm up the bike properly, particularly on colder days as the 20 is pretty thicker than 10 when cold. In the winter days with consistent low temps and seldom WOT conditions, maybe a 10W40 is in order, maybe...
If I had my Griso I would give it a shot.

Todd, if this logic is not faulty, then your mods would make up their cost in cheaper oil changes!
 
Pete Roper posted alink either here of Wild Guzzi showing the oil flow on the new Guzzi's. At least the Norge/Breva/Griso types. New oil passages where the oil is flowing over hotter areas than ever before. But it is your bike, do as you wish. Probably better to monitor the oil and see if you can go longer than the factory recommended intervals before using a grade that may not be suitable for the purpose.
 
Was Pete's schematic of an 8V or a G11. My understanding is that the G11 was very similar to the V11 Lemans engine as far as oil passages and such. I also realize there were two different oil pumps in the grisos. I know the later grisos had geo-rotor pumps and I think the first ones had some variation of that pump. But looking at the diagrams, the first griso's appear much the same as V11's and I dont see a need for additional oil costs if the only reason is the new ones must run lean and hot to pass emissions. If a properly sorted G11 runs cool, any oil should work. Roper has stated that (to my knowledge) that the 8V is primarlily oil cooled and lesser oils will just not work, but on the the G11, I dont see any significant difference between the the V11 Lemans and the G11, so a cool running G11 should not have excessive oil requirements... any input is appreciated
 
Buy it on-line and get it a heck of alot cheaper! I got a case from these fellows for $11.50/liter including shipping. Granted you gotta shell out a bit for the case of 12 but now I don't have to worry about oil for awhile, and if you know anyone else with a guzzi they might split the cost.

http://www.shop.rp-motorsports.com/AGIP-Racing-4T-10w-60-Motor-Oil-Case-10604T.htm

And in my opinion trying to save $20-40 per oil change interval isn't worth the possible damage it might do to the vastly more expensive engine.
 
TheMuffinMan said:
Buy it on-line and get it a heck of alot cheaper! I got a case from these fellows for $11.50/liter including shipping. Granted you gotta shell out a bit for the case of 12 but now I don't have to worry about oil for awhile, and if you know anyone else with a guzzi they might split the cost.

http://www.shop.rp-motorsports.com/AGIP-Racing-4T-10w-60-Motor-Oil-Case-10604T.htm

And in my opinion trying to save $20-40 per oil change interval isn't worth the possible damage it might do to the vastly more expensive engine.
Click to expand...

Agreed. A motorcycle engine is no place to cheap out on oil. Whatever you save will be spent later on repair. One good hot day and bye, bye bike.

As the saying goes: "It's always the cheap who pay the most in the end".
 
I agree, given the 6000 mile oil change interval the cost differential is trivial. If the motor with proper fueling runs cooler, to me the benefit is that it lasts longer/has fewer issues, not that you try to save, what, $20-30 at most over the course of 6000 miles but possibly lose the reliability benefit. Classic penny wise/pound foolish.
 
*Yes But - I don't see much vicosity difference in using Mobil -1 Syn 15 - 50 versus the 10-60 Liquid Gold
@ 1/3 the cost. Currently $6.37 per Qt. @ Wallys... B)

I wonder if any company makes an EFI controller like the Dobeck I had on my V-Strom...Easier to use then a Power Commander without the need of a computer. Fits under the seat and easy to make adjustments.
 
I dont know what roper posted, but the griso looks alot like a V11 engine with lean fueling. I am not cheap, but if I dont need high dollar oil, I would rather buy my loving wife gifts. I also know Pete uses 10-70 Pennrite in his new Carc bikes because they run hot, I also know he runs cheap ass yak fat in his older guzzi's, I still have some of the 99cent oil he used in his convert in my garage. My point was, based on Pete's input that the engines run hotter, hence, need oil that wont break down, in the 8V I see this as fully oil cooled, in the G11 2V, I see this as an air cooled, oil lubricated engine, different needs for each bike. Pete, chime in and tell me I am full of shite :twisted:
 
I have always bought oil from my dealer and he has always supplied me with Motorex 10-40.

I change oil every 5000 Klm (3000mile) cause i only do about 10,000Klm a year, and by this time it is 6 months old, and my view is it's only the end 2 cylinders cut of a V8 that revs 7k max, not a four pot screamer that revs 15k.

Any full synthetic oil in the range of 10-60 is going to do the job and if you are riding in extreme hot, cold, dusty conditions then the change intervals should be halved.
 
When I had my 1100 Griso I ran it on Penrite HPR30, a 'Synthetic Fortified' 20/60 mineral oil. I never considered the heat issue to be too much of a worry as the motor is essentially the same design as it had been for years but was built using newer and better materials. AFAIK it's still rolling around and has had no problems. Biggest issue in my book would be whether the aditives in it were up to the task of protecting the cams and tappets.

Some folks I know have had more problems with pinging when using a 10/40 synthetic. Almost certainly due to more oil getting past the rings when the engine is hot. Changing to a 10/60 improved this I'm told but this is not something I can offer a first hand opinion on.

The 8V motor? That's an entirely different story.

Pete
 
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