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Locking plates for 1975 850 T rear main bearing.

Not all wave washers are created equal - the reason I specified DIN 137B is because they are thicker and stronger than your average "bought at Home Depot" wave washer.

On some of the year 2000 engines the bottom two bolt holes for the rear main were drilled through and not blind holes. Oil would travel the threads leaking out. I would clean the holes well and use Loctite 242 to seal the threads. It wouldn't hurt to use it on all of the bolts.
Actually my 75 850T has the two bottom holes drilled through as well. I know this is an old thread but seeing as I’m right in the middle of doing the same thing as our thread author I’m also researching replacement ideas for the Metal lock tabs.
 
Yes, I as well. Sourced Wave Washers locally, a dab of medium locktite on the blind bolt holes and a bit more on the through holes to stop the oil seepage. To pull the bearing I fabricated a puller, heated the case around the bearing with a head gun and did a couple of light taps on the inside, after the bottom plate was off with mild tension supplied by the puller. Bearing pulled out smoothly. Same for re-establishment. heated the case, bearing in the fridge. It then fit in smoothly with gentle pressure. While the cam blank was not leaking I took a moment to JB weld the seam, just in case. I don't want to do this again. Now with the tranny refurbished with new seals, shift drum end play adjusted new push rod and double o-ring end cap and new S-D Clutch HOPEFULLY all leaks will be a thing of the past.
 

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all leaks will be a thing of the past.

This is easily accomplished via the use of Hylomar Blue. It also makes an excellent non-hardening thread sealant which can be removed at any time with acetone on a Q-tip swab.

Besides, if it does need to come apart someday, Hylomar Blue will easily separate and go back together again just like new, whereas JB Weld, not so much.
 
sigh too late now. Must admit Scott that I have never heard of Hylomar Blue before. I'll have to investigate that. All the chat that I have heard until now referred to JB Weld as the solution. Well I don't think its going to matter one way or the other. If the cam blank has to come out at some time in the future, well it will be the next owners problem. Who ever inherits the bike from me. ;)
 
Since the cam plug will likely never be removed for any reason, JB Weld will be fine. It's what I use on all of the engines I build. Hylomar is my least favorite sealer of all time.
Agree Charley, I only use hylomar on gaskets. For the bolt holes on the rear main, Loctite 242 is my go to. It will seal the through holes, and help to lock the others. Also heat is not required to remove bolts where 242 is used.
 
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